kencombs

Only if there is a 273/4bbl/4spd hiding inside.

Before giving up and starting a rebuild, I'd pull the valve covers to see if the dead cylinders have a stuck valve and probably be able to free them up from there. If you can, and then get it started, some run time may bring the compression up considerably. Rings and oil can clean up cylinders that probably have a light coat of rust from long storage. Not ideal, but you may have a runner. once the valves are free, I'd also pull and clean the new plugs, just to remove any oil or debris fouling from the unsticking efforts. good luck! Edit to add: One other 'trick', jump it with a 12v battery, short bursts only. The added speed will help the compression while cranking as there is less time spent on the compression stroke, so less leakage. Also gives a hotter spark.

In your first pic on this thread. Bottom unit mounted in that 'box' on the air cleaner support.

You might find a connection to that part on this forum: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/category-view.asp

It's possible to install the front timing cover without the seal opening being centered over the crank. If you didn't install the seal before tightening the bolts, or didn't use a centering tool, that may be the problem. If the cover isn't glued to the gasket and/or block, you may be able to loosen the bolts and move it to center. That is if the bolts from inside will allow any such movement.

I'm in the process of tearing down a 56 Plymouth 230. It has the separate hub and pulley. I plan to use power steering and found that the 6 bolt pattern on that hub matches later v8 pulleys so that works out for me,

I don't have my manuals handy, but that idle speed is almost double what I recall as the spec. So, something is wrong the the carb's Idle mechanism, plugged, misadjusted or something. the reference to the advance mechanism was part of the timing issue, and it looks like you found at least part of that. the mechanical advance springs have been known to break and cause timing jitter and/or vacuum pulsing. Not likely since you found the cause of the timing light disappearing.

First thing I'd check would be to make sure the return port is being uncovered when the pedal returns. To little free play between linkage and piston could block that.

The choke issue is obviously a fuel related issue if you're sure there are no vacuum leaks, and gauge seems o indicate there are not. Idle circuit plugged maybe? The vacuum 'bounce' may be related. What is the idle speed? Another source of that is a tight valve. But, add the timing mark issue and I'd take a look at the distributor. Either the vacuum or centrifugal mechanism may be at fault.

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Take a look at 90s Ford Ranger 60/40 benches, they look very close to the right size.

That is much better than the pricing mentioned earlier! I think folks were talking prices near $300. Makes the decision to not cut up a mallet much easier, and wiser.

#8 Posted yesterday at 12:54 PM I have the Presto-Matic transmission This is what you posted and all my answers/suggestions have been predicated on that. I hope you really have that one

Here is the most concise explanation I've found, copied from Wiki: Operation Attached to the transmission was an “underdrive” with a reduction gear of 1.75/1. The shift lever was column-mounted and had three positions: Low (in the “2nd” position of a conventional 3-speed manual unit), High (in the “3rd” position), and Reverse (same as the 3-speed). The clutch had to be depressed every time the gear shift lever was moved. When the lever was put in Low, the car started in “underdrive” low; when the vehicle reached a minimum speed of 6 mph (9.7 km/h), the driver lifted his foot off the accelerator, the underdrive unit would kick out and the car would be in Low. Similarly, with the lever in High position, the car would start in underdrive high, and at any speed above 13 mph (21 km/h), the driver would lift his foot and the car would “shift” into direct drive. This configuration had the effect of providing 4 gear ratios: Underdrive Low, 3.57/1, Low 2.04/1, Underdrive High, 1.75/1, High, 1/1. In order for the unit to work without gear clashing, it contained a freewheeling device (in Underdrive, Low and High), and the Owner’s manual cautioned drivers not to use “1st or 3rd” gear when descending hills, because there was no engine compression braking in those free-wheeling ranges. Generally, most drivers started an M6 car in High and accomplished the shift to direct drive somewhere between 13 and 25 MPH by releasing the accelerator pedal and waiting for the “clunk” that signaled the disengagement of the underdrive. An M6 car would automatically shift from High down to underdrive high when car speed dropped below approximately 11 MPH.

So true. To illustrate, back in the '60s I worked with a guy that had a very early Datsun pickup. A little 1200cc four banger. It still had a crank in the cab and slot in the bumper to fit it to the crankshaft. It would never start on very cold mornings using the starter. But, turn the key on and turn the engine with the crank and it would always fire up. Using a voltmeter on the coil he found that there was barely any voltage available when the starter was cranking. But the engine turned fine.

Please check the free play and report back. If I understand your post correctly, what you turned when installing the trans, was actually the flywheel. So the clutch was not moving independent of the engine. With this new background info, there is another suspect. If the PO had the clutch out, it may be installed backwards and the hub springs hitting the flywheel bolts.

Probably not a shift linkage issue. Rather, the clutch is not releasing fully, engine idling to high, you're not waiting long enough to let the gears stop turning or a host of other things. a little more info would help. If the car has been sitting/not run for a while that can cause a stuck clutch. Lack of adequate free play can cause the clutch not to release fully. A high idle will spin the gears faster and you would need to wait a few seconds after pushing the clutch in for them to stop.. I've seen transmissions filled with chassis grease to stop leaks. also spins the gears when it shouldn't. Is this when shifting into low or reverse only, or all gears. I'd check the pedal free play first. Also, try putting it in high before trying low or reverse.

That is what I described above, but it only copies the current page, at least in my testing. But, as mentioned, you can do that for each page and grab all the thread that way.

I don't know of a way to grab it all at once. But, you can open a page at a time, Edit/select all/copy. then open MS Word and paste it in. That would have to be done for your 30+ pages one by one. Won't be bad if you start now and add as you go. Once pasted, all the Work format and edit tools can be used. I tried it with one page and all the formating was intact. Some pastes lose formating, spacing, etc, but this site seems to work ok with Word. BTW, I'm using firefox and an old word, '2000', along with Win10.

I won't give an opinion. But, I will say that my '56 PU is 12v from the factory, but now has an alternator replacing the generator. Mother Mopar changed for a reason.

Regarding the headrest issue: I agree that the interior would look better, more period and blend with the rest of the Suburban best without. But, if I were to drive it a lot I'd want them. The value of a good head rest in a rear end collision is very high as it helps prevent whiplash or other neck injuries. I'd suffer some style points to gain that. Also, good seat belts and probably shoulder harness to the outer positions would be on my must have list. .

Hard to believe story: Back in the '60s, while working in my Dad's salvage, I sold a Chevy head to a guy to replace one that 'cracked' . after some discussion I found that he had failed to remove the one head bolt hidden under the rocker shaft and not in line with all the others. then drove a slender chisel between the head and block until the head broke! That takes some serious hammerin'.

That word is why I didn't recommend that gun, and why I love the composite/titanium IR models. for one or two bolts they are ok, but holding one overhead, or arm's length, for several is not what my 75YO arms want to do. I have had a lot of older models and the new ones really are better. Shop ebay for used ones to control the budget aspect.

I'm a fan of IR's composite/Titanium models. A little expensive, but light and powerful. The little 3/8" is so strong, I almost never have to grab the 1/2" . I also highly recommend a good set of swivel sockets for the 3/8". Much better than the typical u'joint versions. The air ratchet is very seldom used, but my DeWalt 20v impact driver gets a lot of use with scewdriver bits and a 1/4" socket adapter