kencombs

Is right on! It's not supposed to come off, easy or not

Try asking the seller if he will make an exception and offer to pay with wire transfer or some other secure NON paypal option. I sell some stuff on ebay and like a lot of others, am really cautious about using Paypal for some countries, Germany not being one of them. So, I state U.S./Canada only, but will make exceptions in some cases. Some countries have a very high rate of fraud activity and Paypal makes it worse. All a buyer has to do is state that they never received the item and Paypal returns the money! And, since there is no reasonably priced way to deliver to the world with prove of delivery (fedex/UPS/USPS/etc) the buyer loses the product and cash.

Not to be a wise *** but, they are totally different things.

That was the one I had seen on the net and was concerned about the size of the tubing. But, if it has been there for 3 years there must be enough volume through the 3/8" tubing. Thanks again for the pics and explanation.

I searched for posts by Mr.Hodges and got no hits. Maybe he used another ID?

Well, I just disassembled a 230 industrial engine. Don't know what it was used in but, judging from the lack of cylinder wear (on a .060 overbore) it had VERY low hours. The crank was .010/.010 and shows a lot of wear, much more than the cylinder condition would indicate. The oil looks as if it had never been changed! Now I know that frequent changes would help, but still, fully filtered oil has been the production standard for many, many years. And probably for very good reason. On my Mitsubishi diesel truck, they even filter the oil to the bearings and that bypassed through the pressure relief separately. So that no oil ever goes from the pump to the pan without a pass through the filter. Even Chevy stovebolts got full flow filtering for heavy duty use in trucks (later production 261s). The one conversion I saw used a plug in the block between the pump output and the passage to the oil tube. He then drilled two holes in the block, one on each side of the plug. The problem I see with that, is that the hole and hose sizes are constrained by the available block space to drill.

Has anyone attempted that on a 230/218 engine? I've seen one on the web, but the oil line size looked way too small to me. Thinking about building up a spare engine for my truck. A full flow system with modern detergent oil would be a great improvement I think. Post ideas/pics or any info you might have please.

I had a request for pictures of my clutch housing that fits Polys and flathead 6's. I thought others might find this useful so I'm posting them here. The pics show the clutch housing with my A833 O/D sitting in place. The pilot hole is the right size (5.125), but there is not quite enough 'meat' to drill new bolt holes. My plan is to place a copper backing plate on the trans mating face extending out to the correct level, then using machinable cast rod, build bosses to drill and tap. Even the main drive gear is the right length and fits the pilot bearing/bushing.. I also have the crossmember, new motor mounts, swinging pedals, hyd clutch parts and firewall reinforcement from the truck that donated the housing (60 Dodge P/U). I also bought a clutch disk that fits the MDG spline and the pressure plate, stock Mopar part. should be a fairly easy install when I finally find time to work on it.

If so this looks like a deal to me: http://www.jcwhitney.com/CLEVITE-MAIN-BEARING-SETS/GP_2005229_N_111+1956+200746327+600001657_10101.jcw Other places I've looked are in the 100-125 range.\\ I'm gonna go mike a crank and see if it will turn to 10 or 20.

The 700 is a tough trans allright, but I don't see any substantial difference with it and a 727 or it's overdrive derivative. And the 700 is a very inefficient user of power passed through it, I've read that it uses a lot more than other competitive designs, especially compared to it's smaller brother, the 200. The low gear is not a real advantage, and could be a disadvantage if you elect to keep the original rear end, which is also low geared. It would be a real stump puller, but not very useful at the stoplight.

I think you hit on the cause earlier with the mention of a high idle speed. Lower temps will reduce the tendency to diesel, but are not the cure. Get the idle speed down and it will probably fix it. Which engine do you have? Look for an idle speed solenoid, lots of early carbed engines had those to reduce idle speed when the key was shut off.

Remember compression, fuel, spark, timing. I didn't see any mention of a compression test. Could well be a stuck valve from sitting so long. Try a compression test. If that's ok. pull plug wires one by one while it's idling and find out which ones are ok and which aren't, then swap plugs and wires between a good-bad pair. That should point you in the right direction.

"He is recommending a 904 trans for it's final drive ratio.He makes an adapter to the six as you know." I don't understand his reasoning as all Non-overdrives, 727,904 and in fact all makes are 1-1 in third gear. One of my first decisions in making my trans choice was to eliminate all non-overdrives. The overdrive makes highway driving much easier on the engine and the driver. As far as I know, the overdrive versions bolt up to the engine and converter just like the 904&727 so the adapter will still work. This also allows you to use the same rear end if desired. I will likely use a disk parking brake on the pinion yoke, or adapt later brakes to my original rear end. It is already converted to studs instead of bolts.

Only with a lot of mods. The driveshaft front yoke is definitely different. The input shaft actually looks close, but counting splines and measuring may say different. Shift would be different as this one has a low/rev lever and a high/second lever. Mopars of that era had one shift lever for all 4 and a selector lever to select the pair being shifted.

The unofficial standard for such things is 'as viewed from the operators seat'. Same is true for left/right, starboard etc. Aircraft, boats, heavy equipment, almost everyone uses this. Sitting in the driver's seat, the fan turns counterclockwise, and blows air from the radiator to the engine. Also, with some really rare exceptions,(like boats with dual engines) all car/truck/industrial engines turn this way. In some installations, the engines are reversed, like garden tractors or such and folks think the engine rotates different. Not true, the perspective changed, not the engine.

I also have a 56 pickup. I researched my trans choices a while back and found that Wilcap can make one up for the later trans. My choice was to go with an 833 overdrive 4 speed. Gathering parts, and just about have everything I need. Using a 58-60 bellhousing which has the right size pilot hole but will need material welded on to accept new bolt holes. It is a hydraulic clutch housing and I'm using the matching pedal set from a 60. Still debating the brakes. I think I'm using a GM hydrovac/master cylinder. All this (even the clutch housing!) is usable with my 230 or a 301 poly that I also have. I think the adapter will work with the overdrive versions of the 904 also and if using an auto, that is what my choice would be. On the rear end issue, I wouldn't change it just for studs, I converted mine using some studs from the parts store. Took all of an hour (not counting the time searching for a hub puller). With an overdrive in front of it, the low original gearing is not a problem.

I use the following steps: Shoot epoxy directly on the metal (and filler if I've used any). While withing the epoxy's recoat window (24 hours for the brand I use), recoat with high build primer. The grit used on the metal is not important, the epoxy/high build will fill almost any sanding scratches, that is their role. Any really bad remaining scratches can be touched up with a good glazing putty before the last primer coat before final blocking.

I'll bet Merle is right. A slight bit of rust on a valve stem that is now gone. I would put the head back on with the old gasket just to retest the compression. If it's now OK, then put a new gasket on.

It will be ok. That much fluid will lube it, but not be adequate to apply clutches and bands. DON"T try to move it, as it may partially engage and slip a lot, not good for friction faces.

Chrysler stuff was very popular with cab companies because it is/was tough! Standard used to be, as I was told by a taxi owner/ expect 125,000 on the original, then 100k more on a rebuild. Then junk the worn out hulk. These numbers went to 175/125K on slant sixes.

Leak down test is best, but a quick and easy test is similar. Make/buy an adapter that screws in the spark plug hole and allows you to attach and air hose. With pressure applied, listen at the tailpipe, carb intake and oil filler tube. That should point you in the right direction, exh valve or intake stuck (or a piece of carbon holding it off the seat) or a piston/ring failure.

Marty, on the pinging issue: I'd put my money on timing also. With the vacuum advance connected to the manifold I think this is what's happening from your description: With wide open throttle you have NO advance because of the low vacuum signal. But as you back off the throttle and the vacuum rises the advance comes into play causing the pinging.

I tried to buy that bleeder also and was too late on the trigger as it was already sold. If you still have it and want to resell, please let me know as I really need one. Thanks

I will take a run to my local parts place and order one.

I posted this on the pilot house forum, but am adding it here since cars are more likely to have the starter I need. Not a pilot house era truck, but it is a flat six. 1956. I think it was originally a 12v truck, but the wiring is a mess so I can't be sure. It is 12v now, alternator from an Asian vehicle, 12v battery in original location and it seems to fit OK. Still has the floor starter and I want to go to a key start, not stomp start. My question is: What starters will work in this application? I will be redoing all the wiring anyway so changing the switch and adding the relay, etc is not an issue. I just need to know what starter(s) will fit the engine and flywheel teeth. Also, since I won't have the correct core, parts store rebuilds are out of the question, so does anyone have a good used one for sale? Thanks for the help