kencombs

I think it should say 'Job Rated'

I would be very surprised to find any repo rubber parts that were a material match to an original. I mean, just look at what happens to even tires from the Orient. Early cracking, poor wear etc. I think we're lucky to get parts the same size, never mind hardness and flexibility. Yeah, I know I'm a cranky old cuss and don't trust offshore vendor sources. But that doesn't mean I'm wrong. I'd try a lot of things before paying the exorbitant prices of some rubber parts.

I think he said a rod bearing, so block shouldn't be involved in the carnage. OP: after you determine exactly what you need, don't forget eBay. I see lots of NOS and other parts there. Of course, it's not a good source if you need a part immediately. But, if you can wait and watch, there are some deals on occasion.

Maybe it would help to read through this old thread over on the HAMB. Lots of experience there https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tapered-axles-lubed-or-dry.317314/

Yeah, but Ford's first was '57 using the same supercharger, maybe branded McCulloch, before the name change to Paxton. The air box solves the problem of a pressurized carb's internals messing with the fuel/air flow design. The box allows the external pressure and internal pressure differential which meters the fuel to remain the same. .

Studebaker had a really good looking solution to that with their '57 Golden Hawk w/blower. Neat lookin' box over the carb. Polished stainless or aluminum would make underhood look great.

The red is a real no-no in my understanding. The axle taper gripping the drums internal bore is what transmits most of the torque. Adding any sort of lube now requires the key to absorb the load. If it starts to rotate on the shaft even a little, the movement will eventually damage the key, drum and/or the axle.

As to the low/inconsistent comression and oil burning, It may just be needing a breakin process. I don't know what size/brand/material the pistons and rings are, but some do need a breakin period. I agree that the valve deposits may be due to valve seals, but I've never seen them cause that kind of oil consumption. The plugs show oil consumption but also the black fluffy stuff looks like a really rich condition. Can't really tell until the oil issue is resolved. On the lifter question, did you fill the lifters with oil and test them before installing? I like to put a pushrod in the drill press, and place a lifter in clean oil in a pan under the pushrod. Then use the drill press (not running of course!) to pump the lifter 'til it fills. Then hold pressure for several seconds to be sure it doesn't bleed off too quickly. Also, I see you had new seats put in. Is it possible that they are too high and the stem to rocker clearance exceeds the lifter travel?

where is the light connected during the red test??

I'm having a difficult time following your process. You have continuity between what test points when the points are closed? When you remove the wire and see the points opening, where are your test points? Maybe it's me, (probably), but I can't tell this from any of the pics as the wire, probe or something is always in the way.

I check the rods and caps. If they are properly marked, there is no need to keep them together. If they are not marked, I mark them with a center punch. No dot for 1, 5 for 6. Still no need to keep them together. But, It certainly makes it foolproof to do so. Come to think of it, maybe I should!

I'm researching for my work on the '56PU. I found info on Prep and Etch, which is a Kleanstrip product, but nothing on Prep and Prime. Do you have a link to any info on that??

There are also alternators with provisions for mounting a vacuum pump on the back end.

Can you provide either a diagram of your test set up, or a pic showing the connections, power source etc?

As stated by AndyD, there is really no need to remove the backing plate for a brake job. I just put a big oil change pan under it, scrape and brush away the crud. The, empty the pan, add some solvent, slide it under the backing plate and scrub with a parts brush.

even with really low compression, with ether you should get something. So I'd be checking for spark... primary circuit, 12 to coil, points etc. Points making and breaking circuit properly. rotor, cap, wires and plugs. If all that is good it should at least pop a few times. As stated Marvel Mystery Oil will help free the rings. But, IMO a shot of ATF will work almost as well, especially with 50% acetone added.

I can't think of anything in or on an ammeter that would or could click. However, there is a self-resetting circuit breaker in the headlight circuit that could do that. It is close enough that it could seem like the meter was making the noise And, that coupled with a short in the light circuit could account for one of your other problems. t

That's it!

Lack of parts support can be an issue , however a lot of the internals, timing chain, sprockets, oil pump etc interchanges with the LA series.You can even drop an LA crank in them to use later flywheels. As far as technology goes, the only advantages the LA held of over the a back in the decision day where economic. Lighter castings, simpler heads to machine etc. The head design is quite similar to the big block chevy, remember the 'porcupine head' label when chevy rolled out the big block for NASCAR? Excellent flow with the offset valves. There are guys making big horsepower with them today. Only problem is, they spend BIG money to do it! I drove my Dad's 57 318 a lot in high school and my own 273 Dart 4barrel 4 speed years later so the two designs aren't new to me. Gas mileage was directly related to the weight of my size 11 1/2s! When the 318 was used for family stuff, we regularly saw 18+, when I drove it dating, not so much!. I'd bet the poly would outperform the Magnum version using modern electronics. But, I'm not going to waste the money needed to find out.

FYI, the relay Mopar used for this function is a Standard Motor Parts SR105. Should be able to find that at any parts store. And, it's almost guaranteed to do what you need. Not so sure about a diode in a potentially high current situation.

No, I didn't suggest the 6 distributor, it's just that your distributor's reluctor does the same thing and will drive a GM module without any need for a resistor or relay or special wiring.

I think I'll stay with the 6 for now. But will continue to keep the v8 idea open in the future. since I want power steering, ready availability of pumps and mounts, as well as maybe A/C would be a plus. I had a 277 but gave it away since it needed far more machine work and parts than I wanted to put into it. Maybe a poly 318 should be in my future??

Yeah, I see your problem. You definitely need a means to send 12v to the coil when starter activated, but with no continuity from coil to starter solenoid pull in coil when not in start position. A relay is the right answer IMO. I think Mopars in the 80s/90s used such. Or you can just use a simple headlight relay from the parts store. Or, replace the Mopar ECU with a GM HEI module and the wiring is really simplified, not need for the resistor or bypass wiring. Better/hotter spark and dwell control too. GM on a Mopar: blasphemy I know but in this case it may be better. Somewhere on this site is a how to on that. Some guys have used the slant 6 electronic distributor, with mods of course, to run there flatties and used the GM module. That's my plan at the moment for my '56 1/2T.

I think you need a relay to send 12v to the coil when the starter is activated, not a direct connection. On older Fords and some Mopars there was a starter relay that had two small posts, one to engage the relay and one to to coil. With your starter you could use a common head light relay to do that. Or, if your connections are available, you can use the post that is only hot when the starter is running. Again a pic is worth a thousand words.

Not an expert, but it sounds to me like the wiring is incorrect. The S wire should not go the a terminal on the solenoid that provides the current to engage the solenoid. Post a pic of the solenoid in use. s