kencombs

My A833OD came from a van. Long tail shaft, two shifter locations, Hurst shifter and a weird mount that placed it forward, upward and angled down. To fit the van's seat/engine configuration. Using the shifter, will make new mount and shift rods, someday, when I put the whole thing together. Right now the engine/trans is sitting beside the frame/cab waiting for the firewall to get painted. My painter (ME) is busy with other things that are higher priority. Tornado damaged roof replacement etc.

My old Hollander interchange books show a full interchange, all flathead 49-60 cams, as long as the sprocket set matches the cam.

Agree with Andyd, the eccentric on the cam cares not what angle the arm contacts. contact on the side, bottom or top is OK as long as it contacts without excessive clearance on the low point . I've seen at least two types listed for sale, both for cars and trucks with no differentiation between the two.

Great movie and that car is the definition of ‘hot rod’. Always wanted a 33/34 three window but the asking price is way outta my price range now. even rough parts are expensive. A bare fender would buy my whole pickup!

That flat floor is the reason for bead rollers existing. A few beads properly placed will improve the looks and remove the flexing and popping. Do you have an access to one? Maybe a friend or a local fab shop?

I would consider the opposite but similar approach. Since the trans should use very little current, a small 6v battery feeding only that circuit may be a possibility. Sure wish we could buy the old batteries that had exposed cell to cell connectors. Tapping 6 v from a 12 was easy then. AC clutches use a fair amount of current as does the blower motor, maybe 6-8 amps total. a dedicated battery for only that may not last as long as needed.

A countersink is the correct approach to the problem. But be sure to buy the correct angle. Most hardware store/woodworking ones will be 90deg. The most common used in automotive work will be a 82deg.

The recessed head bolts must be flush or below the adapter surface. Otherwise the transmission mounting bolt ‘ears’ will be stressed and may crack. Yours is the second case of those holes not being deep enough that I’ve read about.

I considered that but decided to keep the flathead until I find an affordable hemi or early 318. But in considering I came to the conclusion that a V6, say from a Dakota, with its transmission would fit better than most alternatives. Flatheads are short, thus so is the engine compartment. I bought a new '87 Dakota and was more than satisfied with the power in a light truck.

Looks like somebody got impatient when installing it. The broken mounting ears on the top are probably from 'helping' it slide in when it wasn't lined up well. It's just a normal standard shift.

Yes, more pics please. I just went back through yours to date looking for info. I'm putting some pieces back together and failed to take a pic of the radiator mount frame. the bend goes toward the front, or back? Couldn't remember but found the answer in your pics. Thanks.

A little story before a real answer. Way back in the very early 70s there was a flood in Rapid City, SD. Local car jockey bought 123 flood damaged new Fords. Trucked them to OK and started to 'restore' and sell. I was doing some body work and actually did 3 of them. One I wanted to buy, little Pinto station wagon. Deal I offered was I get it as is, no work by your guys to get it running. He refused but brought it in for me to do body repair and paint. All the cars had been pushed together by the flood waters and the national guard trucks clearing the roads, so lots of dents. A couple of weeks after I finished it the dealer came by and said he really should have sold to me. All his folks were doing is draining and refilling engines and transmissions. He had sold the Pinto and the engine started knocking withing 20 miles. Fixed that and the C3 trans died within a week. Moral of the story, the silt even from fresh water gets everywhere. When I was working on the body, dirt was falling out of the headliner, doors were half full etc. Obviously the engine and trans also had some. Based on that experience, I would completely dismantle the mechanical stuff and clean every crevice. Then decide if it required machine work due to level of wear. Gaskets at a minimum, probably rings and bearings just because. And, do not start or even crank it over before starting the job.

Merle is correct. The driveshaft won't turn, but the differential will allow wheels to turn if they don't both have traction.

Me too! Simpler and proven, reliable design.

In theory, the bearing should never be in contact with the coolant. Sealing it in the engine and away from the bearing is a function of the seal. However the sealed bearing would certainly be more likely not to pass an seal seepage. I think the change in the frequency of pump failures has to do more with improved ceramic seals and more precise manufacturing of said seals. A much improved design compared to the old adjustable packings that used to be the norm. Dealing with that is how slip joint pliers became known as 'water pump pliers'.

Don't get hung up on core count. That meant something when all the cores were copper, and same tube size. A 2 core aluminum with bigger individual tubes may be the same heat discharge capacity. They are so different in material and design that matching core count is meaningless IMNSHO. I suspect that the older, smaller tube, but denser fins may be less efficient due to restricting air flow. I've found that a lot of heating issues can be solved by moving more air, not water.

IF, all caps for a reason, the adapter hole is the same size as the housing hole, one could simply align them before final tightening of the attaching screws. Or, some adapters have a alignment protrusion on the front side and counterbored on the back for the FBR. I chose not to use an adapter. My bell, from a 59/60 truck, has the correct size pilot hole. So, with a little weld buildup, drilling and tapping it bolts up with no added parts.

Well, you can ignore my advice above. I just searched ebay, NO used slant six distributors of the right vintage available right now. A few rebuilt ones though. **but several like the one you bought.

ebay. ypu can see a pic.. full money back warranty from ebay if not as described . that's where mine came from. just be sure to search for the right years and look up the right yets on rock auto.

I'll be using a dry switch under the dash also. Lots of pressure switch failures in my history ,replaced several for leakage . Especially with later replacements seeping fluid and even more especially with late 90s/early2000s Ford engine compartment fires. Pressure switch leaked internally, shorted and caught fire. I lost a 2000 Expedition and an high school friend lost a similar SUV along with over $100K damage to his house. Both fires started when the vehicles were parked and unattended, but his was in the garage. Yes they are simple and easy to install but far from being the perfect solution.

My 56 pickup has a perfect drag link. Thankfully, as it is serviced as a unit. Heavy, bent solid rod with forged socket for the ball. New ones are hard to find, and expensive if found. If I ever need one, I'll use Heim style ends on a heavy walled tube internally threaded and bent to shape on the press. Have to drill the pitman and steering knuckle but that's no big deal. Heims are not my first choice for a car/truck that sees a lot of miles, but that doesn't describe mine.

To bad we don't have a computerized 'duty cycle' counter on the dash. I'd really like to tabulate number of starts, % of run time at normal operating temp, average trip length, oil temp, and a host of other things to decide when to change. Maybe just 'cycles' which is used in a lot of aircraft maintenance plans. A cycle, is a takeoff and landing. max power, less power, cruise power, landing stress etc all play into the plan. Way to complicated for cars I think so I just go by gut feel, If the oil doesn't get hot enough to remove the moisture regularly, but does get used often, every six months change 'seems' OK. More miles, less short trips, yearly or 2000 miles 'seems' right. When I get my rebuilt (really a high class overhaul), pickup engine together it will have a full flow system, and maybe the bypass too, and the highest temp thermostat I can find and I'll go to a 3000 mile interval, 5000 if using synthetic and driving every day.

Well I just stumbled upon the flushing saga. Too late now, but my choice would have been automatic dishwasher detergent. No bubbles and one of the strongest cleaners available, especially when dealing with grease/oils.

In general aftermarket coils and such are approximate fit to literally hundreds of makes/models/years. But may not be specific for a singe fitment. Close enough to work for most if not all. Ballast resistors are fairly wide ranging in value. I copied this chart off the net. Typically the coil and resistor combo is selected to limit current across the points to 4 amps or less. That's real real goal. the way I do a static test of the workings is to turn on the ignition, turn the engine so the points are open, hold the end of the coil wire near a ground on the engine. Closing the points by bridging the gap with a screwdriver and then removing should create a spark to jump the gap. And it should happen with or without the condenser IF the condenser shorted internally. Just create a path for current to flow and break it. Should spark when broken.

Probably due to a mismatch between the generic 12v, that requires a resistor coil, and the value of the resistor chosen. They must be matched in order to arrive at the design voltage.