kencombs

Could be a deal for the right buyer and location. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/486215117472884?rid=10163311097449434&ad_id&rt=1&refID=0&refType=0&referral_code=commerce_attachment Not mine, no interest.

Clean, dry and properly torqued is the recipe for a proper install. We have had several discussions here about the weakness of the design and key failures. In my past experience have seen those keys loosen, even shear. But in every case the shaft had been treated to a coating of oily stuff of some kind. That invites rotation which will damage the key fit. This dates back to the 60s when I was working on these things at least weekly, usually daily. that's my story and I'm sticken to it!

Everyone should read the IRS info on this. Some have interpreted it to mean that you will be required to pay taxes on the 1099K figure, Maybe, maybe not, depending on the NET of the sale. Good reading here https://www.irs.gov/businesses/what-to-do-with-form-1099-k Nothing is really new, sales less cost of sales is taxable.

I've stored a lot of enginss for several months, some for a year or two while working for my Dad. Removed from wrecks, overhauled or rebuilt and stored until sold or installed. Penetrating oils are not my first choice. They are thin and designed to seep, not stick in place. My goto was, and is, a fairly heavy weight engine oil. Back in the day, I'd use STP to make it stickier. pull the plugs put a small amount in each hole. Turn it over by hand and repeat. PUT THE PLUGS BACK IN. Also plug all openings that connect the outside to the inside. Intake, exhaust, oil fill, breather tube etc. You do not want atmospheric moisture to access the inside of the engine. Always worked for me. I have known of guys doing nothing and the engine was fine months later. Others found the rings stuck to the cylinder walls due to a fine film of rust. keep it dry, either wrap well or keep inside under cover.

How much difference in the point gap can you measure? I wouldn't be surprised to find a new one having 'some' variance but a few thousandths won't materially effect the running. For instance, You could set the gap at .018 or .022 and probably never be able to feel the change. So one lobe a thou or 2 low wouldn't hurt much and may have even been that way when new. On the other hand, maybe no one ever used that little lube tube that came with new points back in the day.

I hear you, my computer experience goes back to the early 70s and my iphone is a puzzle sometimes. so much info and options available on such a little screen, buried in several layers/menus and with icons that are not always logical. Kinda like the infotainment center on new cars, is the car with squiggly lines an antilock brake issue, or ice warning, or stability software/hardware failure? Could be either (or none) depending on the vintage and maker of the car.

Sneaky leaks like that are sometimes hard to find. IME, the first place to look, after the obvious wheel cylinders, is the master push rod. Often leaks past the piston go no further than the dust boot. In good shape, that will contain the fluid so it isn't visible without pulling the boot back. Never have seen a master cap leak. And, if it did it should be obvious as the outside of the master would be wet below the cap. Edit to add: one of the good things about later firewall mounted pedals, leaks like that can't be seen, but can be smelled. A little brake fluid inside your car really reeks!

Back when I worked on these things every day I heard the same stories. Every single time it was after a brake job or something else that required removing and replacing the hub/drum. Poor worksmanship on the job caused the future failure. I want to run a 4.11 or so rear end with an A833OD. Once the brake job is done, if it needs one, there are no benefits to swapping, other than the emergency brake and there are other ways to attack that. edit to add: The number one cause of key failures, IME is/was the use of grease on the taper. The key really doesn't do much. The taper, wedged fit, axle to hub is where the torque is contained. Workshop manuals were explicit, those surfaces should be clean, dry and free of burrs. Many 'mechanics' had difficulty removing them, so lubed up the taper to ease the removal 'next time'. It worked, they came off real easy! But next time was an unplanned removal.

I have klugged some stiffening beads with a piece of plywood with a groove in it, some clamps and a air hammer chisel with a tip ground to a blunt/rounded end. Not the prettiest, but stopped the oil canning.

I really need to mention this, don't be afraid of rear end and axle strength unless you're making LOTS of power. That axle key is not a wimpy little woodruff model, it is a full length square cut key. That design was used (with a bigger ring gear) right up to the fire breathing 413 Ramchargers drag car.. I saw lot of them run back in the day, even had one in a 58 Dodge Coronet, replacement for the 326. Never saw one fail. Brakes and/or ujoint issues are real though. Thank goodness, my 56 pickup has 'normal' ujoints. And I have a disk driveline brake that I might install just because I can.

For oil info I usually visit bobistheoilguy.com. lots of reliable data and articles about all aspects of lubrication in engines. FWIW, no engine of mine will get non-detergent, mostly because all modern oils have cleaning qualities as a 'must have' in all the engine manufacturers specs. There is a section in the above web site that is a gold mine of info, I think it's labeled 'motor oil university'.

My A833OD came from a van. Long tail shaft, two shifter locations, Hurst shifter and a weird mount that placed it forward, upward and angled down. To fit the van's seat/engine configuration. Using the shifter, will make new mount and shift rods, someday, when I put the whole thing together. Right now the engine/trans is sitting beside the frame/cab waiting for the firewall to get painted. My painter (ME) is busy with other things that are higher priority. Tornado damaged roof replacement etc.

My old Hollander interchange books show a full interchange, all flathead 49-60 cams, as long as the sprocket set matches the cam.

Agree with Andyd, the eccentric on the cam cares not what angle the arm contacts. contact on the side, bottom or top is OK as long as it contacts without excessive clearance on the low point . I've seen at least two types listed for sale, both for cars and trucks with no differentiation between the two.

Great movie and that car is the definition of ‘hot rod’. Always wanted a 33/34 three window but the asking price is way outta my price range now. even rough parts are expensive. A bare fender would buy my whole pickup!

That flat floor is the reason for bead rollers existing. A few beads properly placed will improve the looks and remove the flexing and popping. Do you have an access to one? Maybe a friend or a local fab shop?

I would consider the opposite but similar approach. Since the trans should use very little current, a small 6v battery feeding only that circuit may be a possibility. Sure wish we could buy the old batteries that had exposed cell to cell connectors. Tapping 6 v from a 12 was easy then. AC clutches use a fair amount of current as does the blower motor, maybe 6-8 amps total. a dedicated battery for only that may not last as long as needed.

A countersink is the correct approach to the problem. But be sure to buy the correct angle. Most hardware store/woodworking ones will be 90deg. The most common used in automotive work will be a 82deg.

The recessed head bolts must be flush or below the adapter surface. Otherwise the transmission mounting bolt ‘ears’ will be stressed and may crack. Yours is the second case of those holes not being deep enough that I’ve read about.

I considered that but decided to keep the flathead until I find an affordable hemi or early 318. But in considering I came to the conclusion that a V6, say from a Dakota, with its transmission would fit better than most alternatives. Flatheads are short, thus so is the engine compartment. I bought a new '87 Dakota and was more than satisfied with the power in a light truck.

Looks like somebody got impatient when installing it. The broken mounting ears on the top are probably from 'helping' it slide in when it wasn't lined up well. It's just a normal standard shift.

Yes, more pics please. I just went back through yours to date looking for info. I'm putting some pieces back together and failed to take a pic of the radiator mount frame. the bend goes toward the front, or back? Couldn't remember but found the answer in your pics. Thanks.

A little story before a real answer. Way back in the very early 70s there was a flood in Rapid City, SD. Local car jockey bought 123 flood damaged new Fords. Trucked them to OK and started to 'restore' and sell. I was doing some body work and actually did 3 of them. One I wanted to buy, little Pinto station wagon. Deal I offered was I get it as is, no work by your guys to get it running. He refused but brought it in for me to do body repair and paint. All the cars had been pushed together by the flood waters and the national guard trucks clearing the roads, so lots of dents. A couple of weeks after I finished it the dealer came by and said he really should have sold to me. All his folks were doing is draining and refilling engines and transmissions. He had sold the Pinto and the engine started knocking withing 20 miles. Fixed that and the C3 trans died within a week. Moral of the story, the silt even from fresh water gets everywhere. When I was working on the body, dirt was falling out of the headliner, doors were half full etc. Obviously the engine and trans also had some. Based on that experience, I would completely dismantle the mechanical stuff and clean every crevice. Then decide if it required machine work due to level of wear. Gaskets at a minimum, probably rings and bearings just because. And, do not start or even crank it over before starting the job.

Merle is correct. The driveshaft won't turn, but the differential will allow wheels to turn if they don't both have traction.