kencombs

That oil pressure relief valve mentioned should be installed behind the bigger plug at the bottom of your pic. And, probably is, or the engine would have no oil pressure. That is the key to making a bypass system work, only after the oil pressure/flow needs of the bearings is met does it open and allow oil to flow to the filter.

Is the OD the same as the seal on the left, but only a different ID? If so,I'd guess that it is included to make the kit fit multiple applications, maybe with different residual pressure valves. Cheaper to do that than stock two different part numbers.

The VIN wasn't a thing until I think late 60s. Makers had serial/model info on the body ,engine and sometimes the frame. Different states used different info on titles. In OK they used the plate on the cab/firewall that has a SN, weight etc. Other states used the engine, which can cause problems after an engine swap. My 56 has the tag on the left side of the firewall, kind of hard to see. Mine had a one digit mismatch from the title because the last digit was misread by a KS owner or official sometime in the distant past. Luckily I got to deal with the Cherokee nation tag/title office and they looked at the tag and corrected the title without a big hassle.

Yes, the gear is not a Chrysler (or Ford, or Studebaker etc) but made by Gemmer (I think) with common internal parts and case castings and Pitman arms to fit many.

IF you have an air hammer, I've found that using that around the center of the hub to help. Hammer at a right angle to the axle. I think it helps to release the tapers bond axle to hub. Can't hurt. Edit to clarify. Do this with the puller installed and tightened. Repeat tightening the puller screw afterwards. And, it is obvious I guess,but be sure the puller screw is well lubed, makes it last longer and turns more of the turning force into pulling force.

I don't see any thing that supplies a slip yoke function in the new parts pic?

I have a 56 PU. It uses a standard spicer u-joint in rear, and a ball and trunnion in the front. I think just like yours should have. That type of drive shaft has to have the slip joint incorporated into the shaft itself as the transmission has the bolt on connection rather that more common splined shaft that accepts the front shaft's slip yoke. Mine is in good shape and everything, but unfortunately I'll have to remove the front slip parts along with the flange that bolts to the trans. I'll have to cut it off and add a new piece that fits the ujoint in the slip yoke I'm using to fit my A833OD transmission. The parts are like these: That will get replaced with this and my slip yoke/new joint. Luckily, my shaft now is way too long so I'll have plenty of tube and the rear part to use. just cut, insert yoke, weld, straighten and done. I hope. The reverse process could be done to make one that fits your truck.

I posted a similar answer yesterday, but it's gone! Anyway agree with Andy, except for another terminology thing. The part in the pic is an 'upright' in my neighborhood, the spindle is the part that receives the new bushings that get reamed. Very seldom does the hole in the upright (or the similar holes in a solid axle) need any work. Once in a while one will find on egg shaped a bit due to operating with bushings that where really worn, allowing the pin to get banged about.

Here is the best pic I could find that shows how the kickdown, solenoid, governor and relay all work together to only interrupt the ignition only while shifting.

IF the oil is coming from the intake, either past stems, or in the intake air via the PCV, the back of the valve heads should show signs of that. I really can't believe that much oil enters the cylinder past the rings with the compression you have, unless the oil ring has failed. In that case I'd expect to see signs of that on the cylinder walls.

I am not familiar with that engine, but some of the newer, smaller, especially turbo-charged engines have issue with the PCV systems that cause similar things. GM's version especially with the intake changing from vacuum to pressure they have difficulty with reliably managing the fume and oil flow.

Regarding the ignition interrupter function, it is important to note that this grounds the ignition for a very short period. And probably won't be noticeable with the test you are using as it lasts for milliseconds while the solenoid plunger is moving.

Depression pipe? Probably on an iPhone, misspelled 'extension' and auto-correct 'fixed' it.

Not gonna give my opinion, because it only means something to me and me alone. But I'll recommend a visit to bobistheoilguy.com Don't go there unless you have a lot of time available to read the info though. But I will say that I use detergent oil in everything, 15w-40 in some and 0w-20 in some. Even some full synthetic.

'slim wirerope' sounds suspiciously like the backup spring from the front seal.

I don't understand why one would source a coil from petronics if you have a points ignition. Any quality stock replacement is fine. As to the ballast resistor and their comments, I really doubt the competency of the tech guy as there are no coils with built-in resistors. ** There is a lot of discussion on them but what they really are is different number and gauge of windings, not another component. And as far I know Chrysler never used them or ballast resistors on 6v cars. ** The exception to that rule was a few temperature resisted coils used on a few mid 50s Mopar 12V cars. I've only seen a couple of these, a thermistor located in a little compartment on the bottom of an otherwise stock appearing coil. In any case, before condemning the coil get yourself a spark checker to insert in the coil or plug wire and be sure of the lack or presence of a spark when it misbehaves.

That spring and linkage is to assist with depressing the clutch, not simply to return the pedal. Without it the pedal would be much harder to depress, release the clutch.

I always pack the oil pump with vaseline before installing. Helps it start pumping immediately. First started this when working a little Buick aluminum v8 in the sixties. Oil pump was in the front cover, internal passage to pickup in the back. Factory manual specified the vaseline packing to get it primed quickly. Decided to do it on every pump. A lot of the engines I worked on in the 60's-80s were for sale and sat for days, weeks or months before their first start.

Darn, that is a long drive shaft to reach all the way across the block, and engage a slot. I've done similar with Fords but the hex shaft is much easier to align and hold in place. And much more room above the engine that beside it when installed.

No, I've always removed a plug and used one of the others, not the filter connections.

I've never seen such tool. How is the pump driven with no gear? I use an external pump or pressure tank to prime through one of the ports into the main oil gallery on the drivers side.

IMHO, nothing fed into the carb inlet will do much of anything beyond the exhaust manifold. Water and/or alcohol will clean the combustion chambers well, but the resulting loose carbon will get deposited in the muffler. The exhaust just cools too much beyond the manifold. The 'italian tuneup' is likely the best solution, but wait for nice warm weather and find a location with lots of uphill runs to get as much temp increase as possible for as long as possible. And repeat weekly.

That looks terrible. But, I'd bet it has existed since the block was cast. I'd run it as is and this is why: There is no oil under pressure in that area of the block. There is almost zero load on the tappet bore, just an up/down motion with a minimal side load from the cam contacting the lifter base. As evidence I offer the fact that I've never encountered a worn bore, even in engines with many, many, many accumulated miles. And have never heard of anyone else finding one. Yes I know it is a lot of work to remove and replace the block if it doesn't work out, but I'd gamble on it working fine. After all there is a lot of machine and assembly work done and salvaging that is worth the gamble in my mind.

No real experience with that seal but I'd bet that the presence of the fluid would stop that leak. The ground surfaces will still have minute imperfections that are filled and sealed by the oil itself. Can't guarantee that of course, and it's a long way back in there if I'm wrong. So let's wait for an expert.

grab this kit: https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-paint-system-starter-kit-17-piece-57508.html and the adapter to your gun. Saves lots of cleaning time and solvent and is spill proof. With the adapters available it will fit most guns. No need to strain paint as each liner has one built in. Easy to mix a little bit and save left overs as long as it doesn't have hardener.