wallytoo

probably could have fit a few more sticks on, but it was pushing 4 tons. the ice was over 20" thick, so not too brave. and it's only about 3 feet of water. so, if it went through, it wouldn't have been catastrophic. average syrup production since 1980: 17 gallons. best year: 1993 (30 gallons).

springs squatted

not disagreeing with most of that, but i put plenty of oil through my flathead. leaks from the rear main and the front, as well as the valve covers. no evidence at all that it burns any, as the plugs are clean after 2K miles of use. i'd guess that the diesel isn't as notorious for leaking oil as the flathead is. the other stuff, sure. more expensive, but i don't think motor oil for it would be.

that's significantly lower than what my 1.5 ton runs at with the 160-degree t-stat. for ambient temps in the 70s, the temp gauge is usually just above 200. with ambient temps in the high 80s, temp gauge is closer to 220. i'm sure it's related to vehicles - the truck is a box, and weighs plenty, so the engine is working hard just to move it at 40 mph, probably nowhere near as aerodynamic as your car.

compression is spec'd as 110 to 140, with 80 as the minimum allowable.

torque for the head bolts is lower than 80. pretty sure the range is 65-70 for screws, and around 55 for nuts. ah, from the manual, cylinder head cap screws (plain head) 7/16-14, 65 to 70 foot pounds. cylinder head nuts 7/16-20, 52 to 57 foot pounds.

the larger trucks don't have vacuum advance, only mechanical. i don't miss it. to the OP, you may have a fuel delivery issue or carb issue, although arcing wires in the dizzy won't help. how do you know the carb is working fine?

i believe the arm needs to point to the "rear" of the tank.

the ad you posted is not the truck in the original post. the truck in the original post has enough identifiable features to classify it as a 1-ton, rather than a 1.5-ton.

perhaps. my 1.5 ton, and all other 1.5 ton trucks that i've seen have 5-lug budd wheels. the truck in the first post looks just like the 1-tons i've seen equipped with dually rears. 6-lug wheels. also, the running board is tight to the door bottom, just like the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks (which is correct for 1 tons). the bigger trucks have a sizable gap between the boards and the door bottom.

monkey, you'll probably have to install it from below the dash; don't believe it will fit through the opening. i got mine from roberts several years ago, and that's how i installed it. i painted the exterior with house paint (several coats), and put it in. it's worked fine for three or four years now, and still looks good. no holes, no sags, etc. the important thing is to make certain that the windshield does not leak in the corner. any leakage will quickly ruin the box. wally

** for those modern cars that haven't switched to 4-wheel disc brakes.

i've used the brake spring pliers for years, both on my cj and my b-1-fa. they work much better than pliers/vise-grips or levering via screwdriver, and are also just as useful for installing the springs as for removing them.

i bought my one-piece windshield rubber from roberts back in 2007, so they've been available for a while. it installed easily. did it by myself. used permetex black inside the entire pinch-weld cavity. hasn't leaked for at least 3 years. i'm happy with mine, too. it has held up fine. paid $65 plus shipping back then. i didn't have that problem. the inner/outer pieces of the center divider fit together fine by sandwiching the rubber. you are certainly not alone with having problems with rubber from roberts. but there are nearly as many tales of problems from steele, and for the price difference, i'd be irate if the steele pieces were anything other than perfect. i'm also aware of the cowl vent rubber problems, yet, again, i purchased mine from roberts and installed it in 2007, and it does not leak. makes me wonder whether there are tremendous variations in the rubber pieces supplied to the vendors, huge variations in the dodge truck sheetmetal, or big variations in the installation abilities by people.

you find that often with electric pumps remotely mounted? or in the tank? because i don't.

jeff, no idea about your situation. i did read your post, though, and see that you have an electric pump (at the tank/in the tank?), so it would be pretty damn difficult to touch the lines near the pump, and they shouldn't be warm at all that far away from the block. as far as starting, even though the truck was warm, did you engage the choke a little? i've found that sometimes they need it to start, even when hot. not full choke, but maybe 1/3 to 1/4. wally

eh. shouldn't matter whether anyone is annoyed. it's your truck.

here's my backup lights on my '48 operated by the rotary switch under the dash that says "unity lights". as a bonus, when switched to on, the switch itself lights up to remind me that the reverse lights are on.

not to be an ass, but you're kidding, right? replace them all. i've been there. lost everything but the clothes i was wearing to a house fire. no more electric blankets. no one got hurt, and that's all that mattered - same for you. sounds like you have the proper attitude to deal with this, and you'll be fine. about the only extra pilothouse thing i have is a generator left over from my 12-volt conversion. if you need it, it's yours. i'll even ship it on my dime. wally

it's available as a pdf on the dodge pilothouse club website. i've had it for years on my computer. http://www.dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/chrysler_engines/chrysler1.pdf

i believe the trucks are different, don. jeff, fwiw, there's a lot of different ways to get these to start, and a lot depends on the condition of the components, etc. my 237 fires up easily in cold weather (i've had no problem starting it in sub-zero temps), and i only use about 1/2 choke, press the gas twice, and set the throttle to about 3/4" on the dash. then press the button, and it starts. after i idle for about a minute, i drive off, with the choke at maybe 1/4th setting for about 5 minutes. the heat riser IS important for driving soon after starting.

on the other hand, it probably wouldn't hurt to try to remove them, and if they back out easily - success.

i don't know. all 4 on mine were frozen inside the manifolds. the nuts came off easy, but none of the bolts would free up. i used penetrant, heat, gentle tapping, couldn't get them to come off. so i didn't separate them or change the gasket. i really didn't want to search for a new manifold (if i'd broken it in trying to remove the bolts) or have to drill out rusted/stuck/broken bolts.

it is? what's the frosty-looking substance on the exterior of mine? i believe you are correct about the relative humidity, ie, more likely to ice-up with high r-h. and it occurs when the ambient temp is above freezing, too (i know you know that).

ahhh. ok.