TodFitch

To add to this, a kin pin reamer set should include a guide bushing. The reamer will have a long shaft smaller than the reamed diameter. You put the tapered guide bushing in the bushing you are not reaming and slide the reamer shaft into that. This keeps the reamer in-line while you ream the other bushing. Then you swap positions and ream the second bushing. The long shaft and guide bushing assures that the bushings are reamed along a common center line. At least that is how my reamer set works. Maybe others are different.

Extended non-use, in my experience, is at leat many decades.

How could they have tested their work if they hadn't polarized the generator? Only explanation I can think of is their test equipment requires and negative ground generator but that seems unlikely. . .

Nice! Got a part number and manufacturer for that PCV valve?

Wow! I've seen bungled repairs but installing a new distribution tube without removing the pieces of the old? That is a new one.

Might want to double check your windshield wiper operation:

Your method sounds reasonable for upshifts. Need to tap the gas pedal when in neutral if you are down shifting. Whole point is to get the gear teeth that you are going to be meshing together to be spinning at the same speed. My non-synchro '33 likes to be in 3rd by 20 MPH or so, so it takes some fancy footwork to shift smoothly if you do it at a higher speed. Given that your truck came with synchronizers that are supposed to deal with the issue of grinding gears, I will admit that the posters who say the synchros are shot are probably on the mark.

And at what speed are you trying to shift? Seems like modern cars are best shifted at higher RPMs than the old L-6 engines with low end torque.

For US built Plymouths in the 1930s, the engine number prefix (model code) was typically that of the higher trim model even when installed in the lower trim model. Sounds like that was true for the Canadian Dodges too.

I am guessing and no expert, but the higher RPM will put higher forces on the bearings. You are running a hydrostatic/plain bearing arrangement with a film of oil keeping the moving metal apart and the thickness of the oil film will likely change a little based on the load. Probably way less than 0.001". Same thing on the wrist pin bushing. Maybe only 0.0001" or even 0.00001" difference for everything combined but enough that the piston ring is tapping against the ridge at the top of the cylinder. Don't know and I could be all wrong. It would not be the first time. But that is my guess.

Didn't the DeSoto taxis in NYC in the late '30s or early '40s have a sun roof arrangement? Seems to me I've seen that in movies of the era with people looking up at the skyscrapers...

In other places they say something to the effect that "if you don't like the weather, wait ten minutes". In California it is more like "if you don't like the weather, drive 10 miles". While Clements, San Jose and San Francisco are not all that far apart they have significantly different weather. I expect Clements to be dryer than where I am. Probably a bit cooler in winter and a lot warmer in summer.

I know that the '63 D200 I had used a locking ring to hold the sending unit on the tank. How long did they use that ring and did it change over the years?

Looking at those photos, I think the two sets of points are wired in series so if either opens you get a spark. The dwell might be increased but I think the main advantage would be that the point gap can be larger which should decrease arcing and the arcing wear is divided between the two sets of points.

My opinion is that gas has little or nothing to do with it. An engine with lots of miles at low speeds/RPMs develops a ridge at the top of the cylinder. Now run it at some faster RPMs and the piston travels just a smidge farther and the top ring hits the ridge and bad things happen. That seems to explain why the damage usually broken top ring and broken top land on piston. Now if you are doing a lot of "spark knock" you might have different damage to the piston and it might be related to the octane rating of the gas (more likely spark timing though). But that is not the same type of damage.

Happy birthday! Perhaps you are confusing "Sunny Southern California" with the rest of the state. (Actually, here in the Bay Area we should be getting into the "June Gloom" (fog) season pretty soon. After that it should be sunny until maybe October. Further north there is yet an different climate.)

Smog standards are different in the US than elsewhere so I can see where some engines, particularly diesel engines, might not be available here. But I also wonder if the there might be a difference between Imperial gallons and US gallons on the numbers. That would be about a 20% difference changing a 45 MPG (US) rating to a 54 MPG (Imperial).

Does not look like an Airstream or Spartan to me which are the two smooth aluminum skinned trailer manufacturers I can think of at the moment. You have my curiosity up.

I've seen some studies of the various weather predictions and apparently places like the weather channel are less accurate that the National Weather Service. They typically increase the probability of rain when it is low as people are much more likely to grumble if it rains and they weren't expecting it than if rain was predicted and did not happen. I find the "Forecast Discussion" page on the NWS web site to most informative. This is where the actual real human states, in weird stilted weather language, why they posted the forecast they did. In your case for the period after Wednesday of next week I read Whenever I see the "uncertainty is relatively high" phrase I know that the forecast is really just a guess and they published the forecast because the schedule said they had to not because they actually think they know what is happening. Basically, at this point, they don't know what the weather is going to be like. Best of luck on the weather!

Thats no fun. You can't explain to the speed enforcement officer that you just assumed your speedometer was correct and get off with an equipment fix-it ticket instead of a speeding ticket.

If the spring gets weak then, all other things being equal, the speedometer will read high. The spring works to return the needle to zero, so if it is weak it won't be pushing the needle to zero as hard. If the needle is sticking at some specific points, I would guess as others have, that there is some dirt or binding in the mechanism. A careful cleaning could help that. If the needle is bouncing around, it is most likely the cable binding up. If the odometer is correct and the speedometer is consistently fast or slow, then the relationship in forces between the magnet inside the aluminum cup and the spring are off. On the speedometers I've looked at you can adjust the spring tension to adjust the speedometer. If the magnet has gotten too weak with age either a professional repair or replacement is probably in order.

1. Yearly or every 2,000 depending on how much I drive it in the year. 2. At home. All I'd expect a modern oil change or repair garage shop to do to my car is break something. 3. My city has curbside pick up of used oil and filters. Just put it out on the curb along with the normal bins for trash and recyclables and it dissappears. 4. I generally buy my oil at Bob's Auto Supply. Not because they are cheaper, but because they are very helpful when I need to get parts for the old car.

He can always screw some rods into the spark plug holes, bring the head into the house, mount it on a wall and use it as a coat rack. . .

If I understand what you are trying to describe and the threaded bushing is still in the hanger casting/forging and you were able to pull out the "U"/"C" portion, then that threaded sleeve is very badly worn and must be replaced. Getting them out of the frame mount can be a real. . . well words appropriate to this forum are insufficient... If at all possible, don't do what a spring shop did to me and take a cutting torch and remove the mount from the frame so you can work on it clamped to a bench vise. Took me a bit (like taking the body off the frame) before I could properly repair the damage they did. A good six sided socket and and impact wrench are probably the tools of choice here.

Worn bearings would lower the oil pressure without affecting compression. I've heard that some have had issues with the cam bearings... But, have you checked that the oil pressure relief valve is free and the spring is not broken? That would be a relatively easy fix that does not require pulling the engine.