TodFitch

That big red cylinder thing? I think it's the top of a vertically mounted aftermarket Ford "ahooga" horn. Seems like they get put on lots of cars, even those built by a different manufacturer in a different decade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-vj0ld8rCEs I wonder how 600-16's would have done in this competition... Probably pretty poorly.

I haven't gotten my garage floor as clean as I'd like so obviously I don't know how to do this. However I happened to be doing some searches on the topic yesterday and it seems like using a poultice made of TSP and a filler like diatomaceous earth is one way. And, apparently, there are commercial cleaners you can get but I've never noticed them in the big box home centers near me.

Current California "Year of Manufacture" law is unaffected by these new "legacy plates". Last I checked the YOM covered pre-1963 vehicles only as the 1963 and up tags are still "current issue" (1963 was the last year they swapped out all the plates). To register your car with the old tags, the tags must be for the year of manufacture (a 1953 model year car built in 1952 would get 1953 tags). The tags must be servicable as determined by the DMV clerk. (Unclear if California allows restored plates. The law does not mention that one way of the other that I can find.) And the numbers on the tags cannot be registered to another vehicle. (Since they reissued every year and since some of the old numbering sequences are currently being used for motorcycles it is possible that the numbers are currently in use.) And you must have a pair of matching plates. Finally, for the 40s and 50s, they used a metal tab for the year. In those years you need a set of plates for the previous full cycle and the tab for your year. Plate dealers know all this and will charge a premium for servicable California tags that are "cleared" (i.e. not currently in use) by the DMV. If you aren't lucky and can get good tags from an estate sale you'll pay big bucks to a plate vendor. Oh, also the California YOM plates are basically the same as current "vanity" plates: You pay full registration (no collector car discount) and a yearly "specialty plate" fee. End result is the state doesn't care if you drive the car every day and to and from work. As far as they are concerned you are paying "full fare" and have full access to the highway system. But your insurance company might care if you have collector car insurance.

Napa Online shows a price of $132 for that master cylinder in my ZIP code. Their current part number for it is M544. The Raybestos number for it is MC544.

The shaft with a button looking pad on the top? I believe that would be the starter pedal...

Yep. But I'm unsure how GTK would like this type of thing handled. These two threads illustrates why I suggested to GTK that if more forums are added that they be based on function not on era or truck vs car. If we had an engine or drivetrain forum, for example, then it would be logical place for moving and merging both threads.

One thread is on the truck side, the other is on the car side. Merging makes sense to me but which forum should the result live in?

Don't know about the P15 era, but with the fabric anti-squeek between the tank and the frame and the straps and the tank on my '33, I suspect that the fuel tank grounding is mostly through the metal tubing. If you replace a section of that with rubber you might have to run a ground wire to get the fuel gauge to read properly.

According to Phil Street's Dodge truck serial number decoder at http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php you have: Serial Number 81195085 Year 1947 Make Dodge Model WC Engine 217.76 Flathead Six Wheelbase 116 Rating 1/2 Ton Engineering Code T112 Plant Detroit, Michigan Build Number 22557 So it originally came with a 218. But that might have been swapped out.

Good to see you back on the forum! That is a sharp looking convertible. I'll have to get up your way to see it.

Why jump to the conclusion that it has anything to do with government spending? As "Dave 72dt" and "greg g" note it probably has to do with the petroleum industry. Here's what Wikipedia has to say about the economy of Fort McMurray:

At some schools it was a long time ago... Back in the '60s the elementary school I went to figured that teaching set theory was more important than the times tables. However my father thought otherwise and drilled us until we had them well memorized.

Thinking about it, if the forum were to be splint into more sections, I think I'd do it by function rather than by era. Perhaps "drive train", "suspension", "body and paint", "interior and upholstery", "road trips", etc. Seems like lots of those apply across both car and truck and across a lot of years. But, on the whole, I'd just leave the categories as they are. I just use the "view new content" function with the option set to show me anything I haven't read. Usually I don't even notice if the thread is on the truck side or the car side.

I've got a '33/'34 vintage HaDees heater in my car and it does work well. Probably work better if I had got the motor rebuilt but the air that comes out is quite warm.

You'll probably have to do for "Central Motors" what I might end up having to do for "Lang Mtrs" in Rochester, NY: Find local newspaper archives for the area and go through the issues printed around the time your car was new looking for ads by the dealer or news articles about them.

Miles walked sounds high to me. I walk just under 4 miles round trip to work most days. Assuming I walk an average 4.5 days a week and do it for 50 weeks of the year that's 900 miles. But it is my impression that I do a lot more walking than the average person. What "recent study" came up with that number?

I guess there is a slight chance that it might be the hub and brake drum assembly too. As sunsetdart suggests, use a dial indicator to see what is or is not running true. I'd start with the wheel and tire on and measure the rim run out. Then I'd remove the wheel and check the runout on the drum. And then I'd check the runout on the axle shaft.

If you don't want to wait the shipping time that Don C's link might involve, go to your local bubble pack auto supply store and buy a "mechanical" temperature gauge for about $20. They come with an assortment of adaptor bushings and one should be the right size.

For a while I lived where it sometimes snowed. A real bummer if you have to get up early to shovel the driveway and then grind your way down the unplowed neighborhood street before yo get to the plowed main roads to get to work. And then in the evening work away at the wall of ice the plow left blocking your driveway. Much nicer to just visit the snow by driving up into the mountains. Here is one of the places I go to play: https://maps.google.com/help/maps/streetview/contribute/#P2BetqgLqaMAAAAAAAB1cA

Snow down in Marana? That is lower than I expected... I know there were expecting 8 to 12 inches at the 5000 foot elevation level today in that area. But Marana is somewhere around 2300 feet.

Don't know about late, but my '33 has just a tube with a 90° bend and a bolt hole.

The little group I climbed Orizaba back in the late 1980s with used that fellow's competition to get to the base camp. But we did see the Power Wagon on the road both directions. It looked to be in good condition back then and based on your linked photos they've kept it up.

You may also be interested in these: http://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936 http://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936_2 http://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936_3 http://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936_4

Shouldn't affect the oil pressure much if any: The return from the oil filter goes through a part of the oil pressure relief valve and is shut off if the pressure drops too low. If you are getting gas into the oil pan you might want to look carefully at the fuel pump.