TodFitch

Before "polarizing the regulator [sic]", do you have the battery installed correctly? The positive post should be connected to the ground cable which is the reverse of modern cars. . . That would cause your ammeter to read backwards too.

Interesting that none of those entries on your scan show material. All the ones in the couple of different group 18 books I have always list material and finish, for example "Cad plated steel".

Don & Don, Perhaps this off topic conversation would be best handled in PMs. . . .

Just looked in the 36-48 Plymouth parts book: The intake studs intake 9 of part number 114547 and the exhaust takes 4 of part number 623370. 114547 is listed in group 18 as a "3⁄8-24 (21⁄64 thick) Plain brass, free fit, regular hexagon nut". Parts book image of the exhaust stud nut shows a cone nut to work with the special washer. So all the intake stud nuts should be brass on all Plymouths '36 through '48. Don't know the material of the special cone nut as that is not in my group 18 copy. Not sure of the material

I did it all when installing the springs on the frame.

I think this changed over the years: The parts book for my '33 engine lists brass nuts for the manifold studs. Cone washers also came later. Maybe when they started using the coned washers they also changed to using a different material for the nuts but I am away from my parts books so I can't look that up.

Maybe this will help. Its from the car side but I think it may apply to the trucks too.

Fairly typical Chrysler product promo film of the era. Earliest I've seen Jimmy Lynch featured was 32 or 33 so it looks like he was doing this gig for Chrysler for at least 10 years.

Trico service manual says you should hook up a scrap piece of hose to the wiper motor when sucking in oil as the oil will damage the hose and you don't want to damage the hose actually used to run the wipers.

A number of years ago we had a chip in the porcelain on the kitchen sink. Many thousands of dollars later the result was a new kitchen. Sounds like you ran into the same phenomena. Sounds like you've got things squared away.

In the original post Bamford's Garage called it a frost shield. If I recall correctly he fitted those on his car before last year's arctic trip too.

There is no voltage rating on my CarQuest tach/dwell meter that I can find anywhere. Seems to work just fine on my car. And Randoid mentions, hook red to positive and black to negative. Since many of the later 12v cars actually used a 6v ignition system, either with a "12v coil" with internal resistor or a separate ballast resistor, it make sense to me that a tach/dwell meter should work on both 12v and 6v cars. But from your description and Randoid's explanation, I wouldn't be surprised if the problem is not in the electrical system.

At least on my car, which uses that style shackle on all four corners, the threads on the inside and outside of the bushing are the same count per inch. So you line everything up where you want it and then thread the bushings on.

What is the designed resistance range of the aftermarket gauge? You need to get a sender that matches it. . .

There are a number of different "standards" on the impedance (ohm) range for different dash gauges and you need to match what that needs. The sending unit you linked to shows a range of 33 to 240 ohms. Thats the typical range for Stewart-Warner units. Mopar (starting in 49 or 50) and Ford are typically 78 to 10 ohms. GM is usually 0 to 90 ohms. And VDO is 10 to 180.

I was surprised to learn that the Grand Canyon Region has a total of 6 members, the minimum number required by national to form a region. So that is 6 people spread around a rather large state. The fact that they were able to pull off a national meet is a testament to them. Kind of makes you wonder about why there haven't been national meets in the mid-west or east. Needless to say visitor owned cars out numbered the local owned ones. There were cars into the late 60s but my focus is on the 30s where there were, if I recall correctly, 10 cars. My guess is there were 75 to 150 cars there. The hosts gave out a list of things to do and places to go but the only formal outings I am aware of were a shopping trip for the spouses on the meet day and a tour of the Franklin Museum on Sunday. On Thursday the group I toured down with made stops at the Sonoran Desert National Monument, the Ira H. Hayes and Mathew B. Juan Memorial Park in Sacaton (Ira Hayes was an American Indian marine who helped raise the flag on Iwo Jima), Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, the Tom Mix Memorial (first movie cowboy who died crashing his Cord at the site) and Biosphere 2 on our way into town. I know a number of people went to the Pima Air Museum on Friday. As far as other events, they had some "technical sessions" where experts in things like automotive painting gave presentations.

Nick DeSimone, the current/outgoing president of the Plymouth Owners Club.

They had some “technical sessions” on things like painting. Seems to me there should be a technical session at national meets on making good car films and you should the presenter! My feeble effort is far worse: 4/23/2013: Revised to use different background music.

Hmmm. That is not what I want to hear when I am setting out for 500 miles tomorrow and 400 the day after with only the fuel pump that is on the engine. I don't think that the Mopar L-6 engines are any tougher on fuel pumps than other cars. Just that the old materials are not up toe modern gas and that the modern replacement pumps are junk. Just do a quality rebuild on an original core and you should be good to go. On the other hand I might be stuck tomorrow 100 miles from anywhere wishing I hadn't posted this comment.

Would one of these be correct? http://www.bestgasket.com/drive_train_part_info.asp?DriveTrainType=Transmission%20Set%20(standard) I believe you have to buy Best Gaskets through a regular store, no direct sales to individuals. However I've noticed a placard at my "local better auto supply" that says the carry Best Gasket products. If this is true for your "local better auto supply" you can probably get a gasket set locally and help keep your neighbors in business.

Just caravanned (sp?) with some other vintage Plymouths. The '35 had a T5 transmission and the '46 had an overdrive transmission. Near as I can tell they did not have any great advantage over my '33 with its 4.375 rear end. We kept is reasonably slow, between 55 and 60 most of the 900 miles except for the hills where my car actually did better than theirs. I think the factory engineers were pretty good at putting together a balanced package: About the time the engine runs out of steam you are starting to wonder about the brakes and the suspension is letting you know that you are running fast. If you change one part of that balanced package without addressing the rest you could have issues. So if you insist on a modern car with vintage styling, drop the body on a modern frame. But if you just put everything back to spec you will have a pretty darned good piece of transportation. Friday I'm heading the 900 miles back home in my '33 (been 1200 miles so far on this trip). This leg will be solo so no "safety in numbers". I am planning on running 60 MPH with breaks for food, fuel and stretching the legs. 500 miles on day one, 400 miles on day two. If I had a 4.1 rear I'd probably bump that up to 65 MPH.

A one wire generic/universal sender with the appropriate range for Mopar (I believe 10 ohms to 78 ohms) should work as long as the mount on the Chevy tank will accept it.

On my computer you've passed the test.

I uploaded it based on your post at http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/28821-fuel-pump-heat-shield/?p=329116 You definitely should get credit. I just haven't figured out how to do that yet and maybe GTK can assist.

Kit was from Antique Auto Parts Cellar: http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/32719-fuel-pump-rebuild/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Bpump+%2Brebuild