hkestes41

I have purchased an OD Solenoids from Antique Auto in Arilington. Got to take a walk back through the warehouse to get to the box that had about 25 solenoids in it. Quite a collection of everything from rubber parts to fenders, bumpers etc. Found a couple of solenoids we thought woud work and he let me take three home for the price of one, "just bring back the ones that you don't use." Was pretty reasonable on pricing as well.

The reason I didn't go with just grabbing it with pliers and flipping it was that I wanted to make sure it was on straight. I was afraid that it could end up a little cock-eyed if if cooled a little before I could get it flipped. Figured with freezing the flywheel and cooking the ring gear it would ensure that the ring would go on completely and have enough play to go on square.

On the ring gear, place a cinder block on end then lay the flywheel on top. Use a torch to heat the ring gear and when it expands it should come off easily with a couple of light raps of a mallet. Then wait until the wife is gone shopping and will be gone for a while. Wrap the flyweel in tin foil and put it in the freezer. Then put some more tin foil on the rack of your grill and fire it up with the ring gear inside. Let the flywheel freeze for about 45 min and the ring gear cook for about 20 - 30 min then back to the cinder block. Working quickly, lay the flywheel back on the cinder block, then drop the ring gear back on with the side with good teeth facing the block side of the flywheel. Because the flywheel has shrunken slightly because it was frozen and the ring gear has expanded slightly because it was cooked, the ring gear should simply fall into place. Once the temperatures have normalized the ring gear will be locked in place. At least that is the way I did mine and the wife never has to know what was in her freezer.

Went into AutoZone the other day to get a new coil. Kid behind counter: "can I help you" Me: "I need a 12 volt coil" I knew what was coming next. Kid: "What make and Model is it for" Me: "It doesn't matter, it just needs to be a 12 volt coil" Kid: "I need to know the make and model to look it up" Me: "OK then, it is for a 1948 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe" Kid: puches it into the computer "Oh, we don't have one" Me: "Really, you don't have a 12 volt coil anywhere in the store?" Kid: "Nope" Older guy in the back must have been listening and comes out from behind the shelves and says "Hey dumb a$$, a 12 volt coil is a 12 volt coil. Doesn't matter if he is putting it on a tractor. Let me show you what a coil is." takes the kid to the back and emerges with a new coil in about 45 seconds. I know it is not the kid's fault, he has to work with what he was trained to do. Just gets comical and/or frustrating some times.

Today was the first annual Hot Rod Hundred TX / OK Edition put on by the Cross Members CC. Thanks to Repos Garage for allowing the Texas guys to gather at the shop before heading to Oklahoma. Here is a link to my photos from the day. Tried to get a shot of every car in attendance but I'm sure I missed at least a few. http://tornadowarning.smugmug.com/Cars/1st-Annual-Hot-Rod-Hundred/41729831_CqQgqv#!i=3316773511&k=nVDDQQ8&lb=1&s=A

59 model 230 bored 30 over. Edgy finned aluminum head, Offenhauser intake, Carter Webber Carbs, Fenton repop cast iron headers, Stovebolt Mini HEI distributor.

Yeah Bob gave that a try after reading Robert's post to no avail. So I went to Autozone and picked up a new one, but I didn't have time to swap it out before heading to Cincinnati. My youngest daughter is graduating from the University of Cincinnati on Saturday with a Lighting Design Degree. Thank goodness, she can stop adding to my debt. Anyway, I need to get things straightened out so I can try to get the bodywork done and get some paint on it before June 14th. That is the date for the Cross Members Hot Rod 100 reliability run starting from the Dallas area and the Oklahoma City area meeting at Lake Murray State Park in Ardmore, OK. http://hotrodhundred.com/regional-events/north-texas-june-14-2014/ They just held the SW Missouri version starting in Springfield around the Stockton Lake area. They had something like 60+ cars participate. Anybody that is in the North Texas / Oklahoma City area that wants to participate, I would encourage you to join us.

Well for multiple reasons (mainly my lazy butt) my car has sat for over a year waiting on me to finish up a clutch change. Finally have the clutch replaced. Of course the battery was dead, so went to jump it. As soon as I hooked up the jumper cable the starter started spinning. Key not on, starter button not pushed. Pulled the jumper cable off and it stopped. Every time I hook up the jumper cable it tries to start immediately. I am electrically challenged, so would appreciate any recommendations on what to work on first.

Here is my other ride. With the weather we have had, I have only been able to ride it a couple of times since purchasing it. The bike I replaced I put over 3,000 miles on in just over 3 1/2 years.

I know that we have had miniature stuff posted here before and I realize it is Furd related, but this guy on the HAMB has amazing metal working skills. Running 1/3 scale Ford 302 video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRVYYtdhG_8&feature=youtu.be 1/3 scale Ford 302 thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=856372 1/3 scale Borg Warner T5 transmission thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=856821 1/3 scale Ford 9 inch thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=857638 Running V Twin video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTtyO_voUU0&feature=youtu.be V Twin thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=855773

Check out this Tech post from the HAMB http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29715&highlight=alternator+in+generator+disguise

Honestly, I do not recall what size hardlines I used. I ordered a preformed set of hardlines from inlinetube.com. I am still using the stock metering valve and both a 2lb and 10lb residual valves. The discs are right up there with the overdrive as the best changes I have made to the car.

50 I am using the Rusty Hope set up on my 48 Coupe. I drilled my own spindle mounting holes because the car was my daily driver at the time and I could not be down long enough to ship the parts to Florida and back. However, if you have the time to have your suspension apart I would absolutely recommend that you consider letting Charlie do the drilling / tapping. While I got mine together it could have been much better it it was drilled using the proper tools.

What particular information are you looking for on the disc swap with stock master cylinder? That is the set up that I am currently running.

Go to the top of the page and click on your screen name above the search window. Then click on edit my profile. Then there is button for photo where you can change the avatar.

Take a look at these two videos. Interesting may try to get in touch with him through message on Youtube to see if he can give you any insight as to what he has found with his application. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7mjSF-h3Vc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FAwkB_EytA

There are also the Langdon repops of the old cast iron Fentons. http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#!/~/product/category=412417&id=1396124. They are a bit pricier than the Red's version but are cast iron rather than tubes and should last much longer. I had them on my 218 and now on my 230 running through 2.25 inch pipes with a cross over and small turbo mufflers. In the picture they look real close to the fuel pump but it is just the angle that the picture was taken from, there is actually more than enough clearance. Here is a clip of the sound on my original 218. Have not done a clip of them on the 230 but they sound about the same. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxfKQ4KMM9s

Sounds good Don. I have the Langdon cast iron Fenton repop headers on mine. I think it sounds good too here is a video right after installing my 218 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxfKQ4KMM9s I have moved all the "Speed Parts" to my 230 and added an Edgy head but have not done a video of the 230 but the exhaust sounds pretty much the same.

I am with Don on this one. I have had Olddaddy's discs on my 48 for several years and can tell you it stops straight in Dallas traffic with zero incidents. It was my daily driver for about 3 years and Dallas traffic is not the friendliest for brakes. Oh and I cruise the left lane at 70 with zero issues. Have made multiple 800+ mile round trips to the HAMB Drags on the interstate all without holding up traffic.

I used the seal from Best Gasket Inc. Had read a couple of articles about their Graphtite gaskets and must say I am very impressed. No leaks in three years of service.

I have never done business with them but they are about 30 miles from me. I understand they are VERY proud of their parts. If there is something in particular that you want from them and can agree to a price, I would be willing to go take a look at it and evaluate the overall condition, send you some photos.

Get with 73RR over on the HAMB. He has a lot of info on transmission swaps for the flathead Mopars. His company is Quality Engineered Components and linked below. http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/

I just have to ask, will there be anything original Plymouth left of the body? It appears that you are having to replace almost the entire outer shell of the car. Amazing work.

That is my old 218 that gave up its life on the way back to Dallas from the HAMB Helping Hands tornado relief effort following the Joplin tornado. The head broke off the #1 intake valve and bounced around in the cylinder, putting a hole in the head before I could get it shut down. It is Chrysler Red. My new 230 below is pretty much the same with the exception of the Edgy head and the Ford Red from a KBS Motor Coater Kit. The kit came with a cleaner, a conditioner, a brush on paint. I also bought a pint of high heat cast iron for the headers. The paint has been on a couple of years now and still looks about as good as the day I put it in.

I had an extra unused hole in my Key / Heater control panel that had a plug in it. So I popped out the plug and I ran my cable through there. Used the stock kickdown switch and put it through an existing hole on the bottom of the dash at the far left. The hole was not quite big enough for the switch so I ran a drill bit through it to open it up just a hair.