hkestes41

Lloyd The T5 is the transmission from an S10.

Lloyd, I will throw in my 2 cents worth, you can add $4.37 to it and get a cup of coffee at Starbucks. If your 201 is not beyond minor repair to get it running, then I would do a tune up and whatever it takes to get the engine to run. You said "After that I will look at the rear-end then all new brakes. Finally the front end, suspension and steering. When all that's done I will start on electrical." With your 201 running, you could do all the other work you suggest while still enjoying driving the car. The rear-end swap can be done in a short weekend as can the front suspension rebuild. Electrical will likely take a bit longer, but not that much longer. In the mean time you can be on the lookout for a 230 and an R10 OD or a T5 if that is the direction you want to go. I had every intention of going with the T5 in my 48 but was looking on Ebay one day and found a 52 model Plymouth 218 with transmission that nobody had bid on. His starting bid price was $275 and the auction was ending in about an hour. Problem with his add was that the photos were fairly dark and not that easy to pick out details. I almost breezed past it but when I got to looking closer at the pictures I picked out what appeared to be the solenoid and governor on the transmission. Sent him a message asking if it was indeed an overdrive transmission and he responded that it was. Made him an offer of $225 and a deal was done. Had no need for the engine so sold it locally for recouped a major portion of my outlay making the overdrive close to free. Found my 230 on the HAMB classifieds from a guy who was putting a 360 in his 57 Dodge. Paid a whopping $150 for the engine and standard 3 speed transmission. Pulled the head and oil pan off the engine to find that it had been rebuilt with very few miles on it. There was absolutely zero sludge build up in the engine at all. Got back in touch with the guy I bought it from and he said that he bought the car, drove it into his shop and pulled the engine. The person he bought it from said it had been rebuilt but never indicated that it was a low mile rebuild. My point with this long winded post, is that my car was already running and driving. I had rebuilt the front suspension, added disc brakes and rebuilt the rear springs / shackles all while driving it as my daily driver. Since it was a driver, I didn't NEED the overdrive or 230. I wanted both but didn't need them at the time so was able to hold off on some much more expensive "opportunities" and wait for more reasonable options to present themselves. The stuff you want is out there and if you can afford to wait, you can find decent deals. It is the guy who has to have it NOW who ends up paying through the nose.

I am running the Langdon set up with an R10 OD. However, I took a clue from Pete (Blueskies) experiences with his set up and did not connect the wire to short out the coil during shifting. Have had zero problems with it.

Greg, I cover Texas through Alabama on the south up to the Canadian border from North Dakota through Western Pennsylvania. I also cover Brazil but have not been down there in several months. All my flying has been on American since my home airport is DFW. Kind of hard to fly anything else out of that airport.

See if I can get this to work from my phone. Short video of Moose in the staging laneshttp://tornadowarning.smugmug.com/Cars/48-Plymouth/i-jxXnCxT/0/960/VID_20130817_134720_941-960.mp4

Bob, I will get arriving Joplin on Friday. Will you be around the Holiday in Friday evening? If so I will see you there. Unfortunately I will be in a rental not the P15. I have had my clutch out for about 6 months. Started a new position at work on April 1st which required a LOT of upfront travel. Just looked at my American Airlines account and I have taken 49 flights since starting the new position. Hasn't left much time for wrenching, that at the 100+ temperatures we have been having.

A guy in the UK is using a 3D printer to "reproduce" an Aston Martin DB4 http://autos.yahoo.com/news/guy-building-skyline-based-aston-martin-db4-replica-193043575.html and http://www.replicadb4.com/default.aspx He is printing the body one 4" X 4" piece at a time and then will move to the interior. Of course it is nothing like the beautiful metal work of veterantechnic but for folks who are metal shaping challenged it could be an option for at least getting models made up so that somebody else could pound them out. Or you could print replacement fenders, slash aprons, window garnish what ever.

I had to have a new bendix on my starter two years ago when in Joplin for the HAMB Drags. I had the newer 12 volt starter on the car at the time which came with the 57 230. However, the teeth on the bendix were worn more at an angle for lack of better term rather than yours which look to be sheared off. Took the starter to a local shop that specialized in starters and they had it done in a matter of a couple of hours for a price of $78 and went through the rest of the starter to check for any other issues. When putting the starter back in I closely inspected the teeth on the flywheel and they had corresponding wear. Once I got home pulled the starter took the flywheel off and swapped the ring gear from my 218 and reinstalled the original 218 6 volt starter. No problems since. I agree with others you need to find out what caused the issue as like I pointed out before it looks like your are sheared off rather than worn off. A new bendix would likely see the same fate if the cause is not determined.

my only dash mods were to make the throttle cable and choke cable into turn signal indicators. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psE2ndm7CH8 I pulled the cables out of the bezel and took them to Radio Shack to find some LED's that fit almost perfectly into the bezel. Had to sand the side of the LED slightly to get a good force fit into the bezel. Screwed the bezel back onto the dash and then wired it into the circuit. Now I know when I have been driving down the road for miles like an old man with my blinkers on.

There are several guys on the HAMB that have used the CC850's. All seem to be happy with the swap, but most have been lowered so how they would work with stock ride height is something you would have to test out. For the price of about $50 - $60 worth a shot.

Some others Pete's AKA Blueskies Bloody Knuckles' Others

No I was never selling it. It does live in North Texas, where it has for the past 6 years.

Here is my 0.030 over 57 model 230 with Edgy Head, Offenhauser Intake, Carter Webber carbs, Fenton repop headers, Mini HEI dist as I was installing it in my avatar.

Ed is absolutely right about the lower cooling passages. Not that difficult to remove the old freeze plugs and flush out the block. If it has never been cleaned out before you be amazed at the amount of crud that you can get out.

190 is not too hot, in fact many run a 180 thermostat so no big deal. Back firing could be a lot of things. Are you sure the plug wires are on correctly for firing order?

Your radiator will "bleed" off water until it gets to its own proper level. You can add fluid every time you run it and every time it gets to temp it will "bleed" off fluid. It settles at its own level. Once it is there no more bleeding. Is your electric fan a pusher or puller? Set on a thermostat or just always on? What is the rating of the fan for air flow? One thing you may want to consider is a fan shroud to insure the air is actually going through the radiator. Pretty simple to make.

Let me give you an analogy that most people can relate to. You see buying/building a small block Chevy vs buying/building a small block Mopar is kind of like the difference between buying a steak at Golden Corral vs buying a steak at Ruth's Chris. Sure you can buy a "decent" steak (Chevy) at Golden Corral and the condiments like ketchup or A1 (Intakes, Headers, Cams) are cheaper too, but if you want a real premium steak (Mopar) you go to Ruth's Chris. Yes the steak at Ruth's Chris is more expensive, but you get what you pay for. Same with the condiments at Ruth's Chris like blue cheese, grilled onions, or red wine reduction. Not many people can eat at Ruth's Chris any time they want to, but we all want to be that guy who can, so we settle for Golden Corral. Same goes with running gear, not many of us can buy/build Mopars so we settle for Chevys.

I do not recall who it was that sent these to me but here is an example of one mounting from someone on here.

I agree with Don and 1940Plymouth

mboer70 Check out this thread on the hotrodders.com site. I put together a list of parts sources / info for a guy looking to build a flathead. All the info I included is available on this forum but not so much flathead info on the other forum. So, I combined it in a single post for him. Hope this helps. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/source-mopar-flat-head-6-performance-parts-205599.html

I was not going to pay the Ebay price when I had several other things that needed taken care of, so I went to Home Depot and bought a roll of ribbed vinyl in the flooring department. Cut it to shape and spray glued it down. While it is obviously not the real thing, if you just look quickly it is passable until I can get the real thing. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Multy-Home-Black-27-in-x-72-in-Vinyl-Runner-MT5310063US/100174337 I later found some running board rubber on Ebay that could be used the same way. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200416841509?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=786824 The guy is machining his own Mopar flathead cylinder head from a chunk of aluminum. He is also writing a program to turn his own roller cam. On top of that he wants to add a blower. Pretty wild plans he has for the old flatty in his 27 T roadster no less.

The compression ratio continued to climb throughout production from 5.1 for the 1933 190ci version, to 6.6 for the 281 in 1948, to 7.1 for the 218 in 1953 then to 8.1 with the 230 in 1957. Not to sure about any changes to the cam specs, but they may well have made changes to take advantage of the increased CR and CIs.

There is actually a decent amount of difference. 1938: 201ci / 82hp @ 3600 rpm / 145ft lb torque @ 1200 rpm 1948: 218ci / 95hp @ 3600 rpm / 172ft lb torque @ 1600 rpm - a 15.85% increase in hp and 18.62% increase in torque 1957: 230ci / 132hp @ 3600 rpm / 205ft lb torque @ 1600 rpm - a 38.95% increase in hp and 19.19% increase in torque If you compare the 1938 to a 1957 in your situation, you get a 60.98% increase in hp and 41.38% increase in torque Now I agree that the change in rear gear and/or OD would be the first change that I would make but the jump to a 230 would be beneficial to Drillmaster. He would just have to determine if it was enough to justify the expenditure.

So then If I understand correctly that is saying that if I currently have the 3.90 gear and will swap the my current side gears into the 55 center section it could well be a go. On the other hand if I currently have the 4.10 gear I could swap my current side gears into the 55 center section and it may work but could cause early wear and failure. Wonder what they consider early failure? Guess I need to crawl under and determine for sure which gear I am currently running.