hkestes41

This was mine through the cast iron Fenton repop headers with 2 inch pipes back through no name 14 inch turbo mufflers. Had an H pipe in it about 2 inches past the end of the bell housing. https://youtu.be/AxfKQ4KMM9s

I will agree that the dual carb / cast iron headers with dual exhaust through short 14 inch I believe turbo style mufflers made a noticable difference in the performance of my coupe. When I moved them from the 218 to the 230 along with the aluminum head there was a significant seat of the pants improvement.

You want the entire transmission with the OD not just the OD. That and the proper bellhousing with the 230 should be a direct bolt in to your coupe. Wire up the solenoid/governor/kickdown switch and you should be good to go.

Unfortunately, I sold the car to a guy in Tyler back in the spring.

Here is how I did mine to transport an engine from Denver back to Dallas. Used 2X6 lumber to build a rectangle that was about 5.5 or 6 feet long and about 14 inches between the side rails. Put a couple of short pieces on the inside of the rails where the bellhousing mounting bolts were and a cross brace under the tail of the transmission. Used lag screws to put it all together. Also put triangular blocks on each corner and added casters. I don't remember the exact dimensions as this was a few years back, but I just took the lumber with me and built the frame on the spot using dimensions measured off the actual engine. Took me less than an hour to build using a hand saw if I had been able to use a circular saw would have been a lot quicker. This design allowed me to screw into the top of the rails through the motor mount and through the bellhousing mounting hole into the blocks mentioned above to secure the engine to the frame. As you can see I even used the frame after rebuilding the engine to move it around the garage until I installed it in the car. With the casters it came in pretty handy.

About $1K would fix that scab. New Grill Insert

I ran an Edgy head on my 230 for about 5 years as a daily driver before selling the car this summer. Never once had an overheating issue with it despite driving in Dallas traffic in temps over 110 degrees plus. Made multiple trips to and from Joplin Missouri for the HAMB Drags in late August again no overheating.

This was the set up on my 230 that I ran for about 5 years here in the Dallas area with temps often over 100 degrees in the summer with no problems. No wraps, clothes pins or any other insulating schemes.

The R10 OD was the best money I ever spent on my 48 Plymouth. Especially considering that I bought it from a guy along with the engine from a 53 suburban he was putting a Hemi in for $350. Both were in good working order.

No likely my 230 would probably not keep up with the 265s. However, all other things equal, the aluminum head engine would have the cast iron head engine working to keep up.

Don't buy it that is your perogative, but you can't argue the weight savings which improves performance. As for the thermal improvements I was not targeting overall cooler operation which is an improvement. I was more leaning toward the reduced temperature of the combustion chamber which will allow you to run increased compression ratios and/or advanced timing without fear of detonation, both of which improve performance. You know there is a reason professional racers used aluminum heads on their engines when factory cast iron units were available. Yes I get that we are talking Flathead vs overhead but the general comparison still holds up. Dissimilar metals are not a concern if you use the correct head gasket. Yes I was an Edgy customer and never once had an overheating or coolant flow issue with the head. Surfaces on the new part were straight and true vs what is often found on the old cast iron parts. The looks are just icing on top of the improved performance cake.

There are actually multiple advantages to an aluminum head vs a cast iron head, even if combustion chamber design and volume is exactly the same in both. 1) Aluminum is a much better heat conductor than is cast iron. The thermal conductivity value of aluminum is 237K while cast iron is 55K. Therefore the aluminum head will make your engine run cooler than a cast iron head. Add the fins on the aluminum head increasing the surface area of the head and you get even more cooling. 2) Aluminum is much lighter than cast iron. In fact you can take the weight of a cast iron head and multiply it by 0.39 to get the approximate weight of an aluminum head. So if a cast iron head were to weigh say 30 pounds then the equivalent aluminum head would weigh approximately 12-13 pounds. Reduced weight equals increased acceleration and improved MPG. 3) The Edgy head is built using much newer production technology than a nearly 80 year old cast iron part and then individually machined offering improved sealing and theoretically improved flow. Just my two cents.

I had the headers on my short block 230. The comment about the big block headers was quoted from oldasdirt. As for adjusting the the tappets, I had them well adjusted prior to putting the headers on the engine.

Here was the 57 model 230 in my 48 coupe. There was a very noticeable difference between the 230 (132 HP Stock) and the 218 (95 HP stock) it replaced with all the same parts except the Edgy head that I added when I made the swap. In my opinion, if you can find a 230 do it. It is a simple bolt in swap as long as you have the appropriate flywheel and starter. The intake, carbs, headers, HEI distributor were purchased from Langdon's Stovebolts. The head obviously from Edgy. There are now more options out there for new intakes and / or vintage parts as well. Lastly look into some form of overdrive. Either a Borg Warner R10, Chevy T5 etc. It makes a marked difference in the performance on the highway. Was probably the best overall upgrade I made to my coupe.

I had Langdon's headers and a stock fuel pump with zero clearance issues.

I used a home-made version of lizard skin covered by the peel and seal in my coupe on the floors, inside the doors and on the firewall about 5-6 years ago. Never had an issue with odor and only one small piece of the peel and seal on the passenger side pick panel below the dash that ever came loose. Pressed it back on and hit it with the heat gun, never came loose again. If you look at the lizard skin site it says that their "paint" is filled "with air-filled insulating/reflective and sound-absorbing particles." With some research I found that those are basically micro-balloons which are used extensively in the aircraft industry. So, I made my own using Elastomeric Reflective Roof Coating designed to paint the roof of mobile homes. It offers reflective cooling and water-proofing. I then mixed in micro-balloons from an aircraft supply company and painted it on the inside of the car. Once the paint was dry, I covered it all in peel and seal using the heat gun briefly on the vertical areas to ensure bonding. The difference in both noise and heat transfer was obvious. Door had a heavy solid sound when shut rather than being tinny. Heat here in the Dallas area is bad enough without the addition heat transferring through the firewall and floors. The combination of the home-made lizard skin and peel and seal made a noticeable difference. I never got around to doing the roof as I was waiting until I redid the headliner, but with what I saw on the floors I believe it would have made a big difference. Sold the car a couple weeks ago so will never be able to know for sure.

Don, that thought has crossed my mind as well. One reason not to do that is that the brake upgrade, front and rear suspension rebuild, all new brake lines etc have already been done to htis car. While the engine swap is obviously not a bolt in deal I would be much closer to running down the road with this one that starting from scratch. Gene, thats just it, I'm not sure that I want to make the swap. One day i'm ready to pull the trigger and the next day I'm ready to jump back in on this one. Getting kind of soft in my old age and would love to have some AC here in the Texas summers. I know others have put AC on their flatheads, but with a lot of the traffic around Dallas I'm not sure I want to drag the flathead down that much, not to mention I would kind of like an automatic in this traffic as well. So I guess you could say I'm just trying to flesh out my options before I make a decision one way or another.

Been a long time since I have posted anything as for a while I have not been able to convince myself to do anyting to my car including starting it. A bit of background. I had to flip the ring gear change due to starter engagement issues. Got all that taken care of and the transmission back in the car when work and weather got in the way of further work. It has now been setting for over a year. I have been getting the itch to do something with it lately since my wife has encouraged me to sell it if I am not going to drive it. I have been considering a move to a 360 / Auto in place of the 230 and R10 Overdrive. Only thing is that I'm not sure what the engine / transmission may be worth. I have a decent idea of what it would cost me to purchase and install the V8 just trying to get some budget numbers in line before I make a final decision on going to the V8 or staying with the flathead. So, what do you all think this may be worth. I know its worth what someone is willing to pay but looking for some general ideas. 59 model 230 Bored 30 over Edgy Head Cast Iron Headers Offy intake / dual 2 bbl carbs Mini HEI distributor Finned aluminum valve covers 53 model R10 Overdrive These photos are from when I installed the motor into the car a few years back. It now has an estimated 6 - 8 thousand miles on it. My odometer does not work so the milage is an estimate.

I used this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ROPPE-Self-Stick-Black-4-in-x-20-ft-x-0-080-in-Vinyl-Wall-Cove-Base-Coil-HC40C51S100/100123333 Seems to work just fine and since it does not show no big deal. Just made a template out of cardboard then cut it with some heavy scissors or a razor knife.

I just picked up a molded plastic version at Autozone that fits on the transmission tunnel. Has two cup holders a small tray with short "walls" around it and even a change holder with slits for different coins. When I get somewhere that I don't want it to show just pick it up and toss it in the trunk, pull it back out when I get in to drive off. http://www.autozone.com/interior-organization-and-cargo-management/console/hopkins-console-with-drinks-cds-and-coins-storage-compartment/426530_0_0/ Only $4 Bucks.

I have the Langdons on my 230 with stock fuel pump and drive it in the heat of Dallas summers with absolutely zero issues. I have driven it with temps over 100 degrees stopped for a burger and it started right up when i was done eating.

There are a couple of pretty indepth threads over on the HAMB on this subject.

Here are the Langdon's cast iron headers along with their intake and Carter Webber carbs.

Try Brillman https://www.brillman.com/ they have all kinds of cloth braided wires from hook-up, to battery cables to spark plug wires and the associated terminals. They also have a lot of other wiring accessories.