hkestes41

Again a very broad brush you are painting with. If the original carb was at or close to the upper end of the capacity of the engine then yes the issues you point to could indeed occur with an additional carb added to the mix. However if the opposite is true and the original carb is at or near the bottom of the capacity of the engine a second carb as long as the combined do not exceed the capacity will absolutely increase performance and can and did in my case increase fuel economy. This is especially true if you help open the breathing on the exhaust side. Look at all the production vehicles (cars, bikes, planes etc) that well paid and very educated engineers have designed with multiple carbs. Were these engines only efficient at high speeds and show poor acceleration? Do all those drag cars with multiple carbs exhibit poor acceleration?

I would say that what you have posted is not a realistic comparison. You see all those tests you posted are on later model cars that have had exhausts that were more highly engineered than that of the flathead Mopars. For instance the Miata / Acura they were on a four cylinder that have what is close to a "header" stock from the factory with a basically centered exit. The Chevelle had actual headers and in each case the tests consisted of only a bigger exhaust pipe size. With an optimized exhaust manifold simply adding a larger exhaust pipe may well be detrimental depending on the size of the pipe that it is replacing. It could also improve the performance if the pipe it is replacing was too small. With the split exhaust or headers replacing the log style exhaust on the flathead Mopar you have a totally different situation. With the exit at the rear of the log you scavenge #6 at a much different rate than #1. With the split exhaust or headers you relieve backpressure seen by #1 with dual exits much closer to the exhaust port and open up the breathing and as the OP said he is also looking to add an additional carb which opens the breathing on the intake side. I mean if you just look at the different exhausts you can see that it is not a valid comparison. First is the stock Miata exhaust, second are the Chevelle headers, third is the stock P15 exhaust manifold and fourth are one of the header options for a flathead Mopar. It is obvious that the original log style Mopar exhaust is much more restrictive.

Yes there are multiple dual carb intakes available mostly for the 23 inch block. As far as I know there are only a couple that are available as NEW intakes that being Offenhauser, Edgy manifold now sold by Mopar Montana and AoK. There are also vintage units out there from Thickston, Edmunds, Ellis and others that show up on EBay from time to time. Just depends on when you want it and how much you want to spend.

This was my 230. With the added aluminum head, cast iron headers, dual exhaust through 14 turbo style mufflers, Offenhauser Intake, Carter Webber carbs, HEI disty did indeed make a difference in the performance. I do not have dyno testing to prove that, but did see some fairly significant seat of the pants improvements not to mention an uptick in MPG. Is it worth it? I thought so, but only you can decide if the expense and time is worth your efforts. Will you be able to do the work yourself or will you have to take it somewhere and pay someone to do the work for you? All that plays into the value of the upgrades which some people would consider a step backward. Here is a video of the intake / carbs and headers on the original 218. Unfortunately I never did a video of the 230. https://youtu.be/AxfKQ4KMM9s

Had my 37 out yesterday to visit a local guy who has a black 35 Dodge coupe in the background. The 35 is a nice driver/survivor hot rod that is for sale. I have posted it in the Ebay, Craigslist and External Site Referrals section.

Andy I am a Harley as well, but have always gone by Kirk my middle name. Both my grandfather and dad were Harleys so 3 of us in the same room could get confusing. Honestly, I dont recall if the Olds was injected or not. That photo was from about 68 so I was only about 8 at the time. They are unique wheels and I have never seen any others.

We are setting in a restaurant eating dinner and just outside the window at the curb was a very nice 65 GTO convert. Blue with a white interior. A woman and her daughter walk up the sidewalk and stop at the passenger door. The mom opens the door and the daughter climbs in. Mom closes the door and o think she is going to go around get in and drive off. Nope. Pulls out her phone takes a picture of her daughter in the car then opens the door, let's her out and walks away. About 15 minutes later a guy walks up from the other direction gets in and drives off. Can't believe the nerve of some people.

Well as my gradma always used to say "opinions are just like butt holes, everyone has one and all of them but mine stink". ? I get it Gassers are not for everybody and you are right they are not built for longer distance driving, but I still like em. Maybe it is bread into me as this was what I grew up around. My dad built / drove this Willys and also Modifieds when I was a kid. So, nostalgic drag cars have always appealed to me. But, I like all kinds of cars. As I said that 3 window is a beautiful body style and would look good however it is finished from stone stock to Gasser to Street Rod or even a Tail Dragger Custom.

That thing would look fantastic with a straight front axle, nose up stance, blown hemi with fenderwell headers and some pie crust cheater slicks. Would also look good restored. In fact I think that body style would look great just about anyway it is done.

I would say Don't drop it. Especially on your toes. Oldguy48 is right. They are a wee bit heavy. The center floorboard section of my 48 had been welded in place by some knucklehead in the past so I had to do everything from under the car. One thing I found when putting the transmission back in by my self was using all thread as guides. I got a long piece of all thread from one of the big box home stores that was the same size as the bolt that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Cut it into four pieces and screwed them into the bellhousing mounting holes. That allowed me to lift the trans with my floor jack with some wood to stabilize it and slide the trans over the all thread using it as a guide to align the input shaft into the throwout bearing. Once the trans has seated against the bellhousing put double nuts on one piece of the all thread and use that to back it out of the bellhousing so that you can install one of the mounting bolts. Repeat the process for the rest of the all thread and bolts.

Well I have been having electrical issues with my 37 Plymouth since May. Had starting issues early on replaced the battery, starter, battery cables and added grounds a second new starter. Unfortunately, due to my own negligence I didn't get one of the wires to the starter back into the loom clip and it got loose and wrapped around the end of the steering column causing a short and all the wires under the hood to burn up. Luckily I always have a fire extinguisher in the car so it was confined to the wiring. Anyway, I rewired the entire car with a new EZ harness and things were looking good once more. Then the electron demons reappeared. Driving down the road on my way home and noticed voltmeter not registering any charge. Made it to the driveway and checked belt good and tight, all wires with good connection etc. Next morning started it with a jump and voltmeter reading 12 volts. So off I go only to look down a few miles later to no reading on the voltmeter. Pulled the alternator and had it checked everything shows good. So I swapped out the voltage regulator. Things seemed to be good after I jumped it again and made it home. Started the car yesterday again with a jump and started the stopwatch on my phone. A couple minutes after I started it the needle on the voltmeter slowly started falling from about 12 volts and at three minutes and 14 second after starting it hit zero. At this point I am clueless as to where to turn next. I am not the brightest bulb in the pack when it comes to electrical and was actually surprised when everything but the brake lights worked after the rewire. Is there an internal voltage regulator in a Denso alternator or something else internally that could be heating up and shutting it down? Any suggestions would be appreciated I'm at a loss.

I used the Newport unit as well. Bolts right into the same location as the stock vacuum unit.

When I put the OD in my 48 coupe, rather than mounting the kickdown switch on the carb, I mounted it to the lower lip of the left side of the dash. There was a hole there already that the switch fit through perfectly. If I wanted to shift out of OD just reached up and pushed the button.

I ran the Langdon's cast iron headers with a stock fuel pump with ZERO issues even in the middle of Dallas 100+ degree summers. You can see in the first photo that there is ample room for the stock pump. The second photo it looks like the headers are much closer to the pump, but it is just the angle that the photo was taken from. Here is a short video of the 218 in the first photo through 2.25 inch pipes if I remember correctly with a cross over pipe just behind the transmission and 14 inch long no-name turbo mufflers. I think it sounded pretty good. Unfortunately I never did a video of the 230 in the second picture. https://youtu.be/AxfKQ4KMM9s

I used the Technostalgia LED lights on my coupe and it made a big difference in the visibility during the daylight hours and especially at night. Their lenses seemed to be a little "clearer" or thinner allowing more light through and the LEDs generated a lot more light as well.

Just like NormanPitkin I have a Shiftrite in the original box on a shelf in the garage. Bought it to use with the OD in my 48, but sold the car before I could ever install it.

And you are DEAD TO ME!! Just kidding. Not at all what I would do, but it is your car and you should do with it what you want. As long as it is saved and kept on the road that is the important thing. Not only that, but if you save it somebody can fix it later. ?

Made it back home today after putting almost 800 miles on the 37 since Thursday morning for the HAMB Drags. I left the Joplin area at about 7:00 this morning and wish I had left about 5:00 because I got hammered with rain from about Vinita, OK to Muskogee (about 70 mile stretch). With only the one tiny windshield wiper I was doing about 40 at times. I have driven it in the rain before, but nothing like this morning. Found that I am in desperate need of a new seal for the windshield.

Sorry I missed you Bob. I did not go over Saturday night. Got pounded by the rain from Vinita to Muskogee on the way home.

Here is a Youtube video of a pair of Comp Coupe/Sedan racers including the blue coupe from above. https://youtu.be/0GHHZ0_Dcq4

Beautiful 37 Chevy pickup parked next to my 37 Plymouth coupe.

Really nice Dodge sedan.

Nice old convertible.