hkestes41

I used the "Rubber Wall Base Cove" like you would see in an office building in place of base boards. Picked it up a Home Depot for something like $3.00 for a 4 inch wide X 4 foot long strip that is 0.125 inches thick. They even have different colors so you can coordinate with your paint color. I didn't go to HD looking for it but just walked past one day and the light went on. Laid it against the cowl where the fenders meet and marked it with a pencil then cut it with a razor knife. Has been in there for about 3 - 4 year through removal of the dog house twice and still working fine.

Like pretty much everything about the 32 except the fins on the headers. The fins look kind of cheesy to me.

I would absolutely be redoing that entire front suspension / air bag / airline setup before I even drove it down the driveway. I would also be checking with Vintage Power Wagons http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/ as a possible source of the brake components.

I have seen the wagon in person at the 2010 Roundup in Austin and can atest to the beauty of the wagon. Bill and I were staying at the same hotel. We chatted for a few minutes in the parking lot as I was checking a caliper that was hanging up on my coupe. I would be happy to be seen driving it even though it is a Ford.

I am in Sao Paulo Barzil a couple of times a year on business and they have a lot of couriers they call Moto Boys who deliver documents from business to business that all ride small motorcycles. The traffic in Sao Paulo is terrible, bad enough in fact that based on your liscense plate number there is one day per week that you are not allowed to drive within the city limits. When the Moto Boys mix with the other bike riders you get long lines of bikes splitting lanes honking their little beep beep horns like a deranged flock of birds. Found a video showing the spectacle. There is not a trip to Brazil that I do not see at least one Moto Boy down on the side of the road. Bad thing is with their traffic it takes an ambulance for ever to get to him.

We had over 100 of the Dallas area's Mensa members shut down Highway 75 which is a 5 lane freeway running North / South through town last Memorial Day. They were '"celebrating" riders who had been killed on their ricers with the "RIP Crash". Plans were underway by the loose knit group to shut down a new bridge in Dallas this Memorial Day but the plans were foiled when police caught wind of the plans. What is it about prepubescent 20 somethings that turns their minds to mush when they jump on a rice rocket? http://www.wfaa.com/news/crime/Stunt-Bikers-who-shut-down-US-75-now-eyeing-Dallas-new-bridge-154235015.html

Langdon's Stovebolt Engine Co sells a modified S10 HEI distributor for the flathead Mopars. http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#ecwid:category=361515&mode=product&product=1222043 I have been running one in two different flatheads a 218 and a 230 with great results. Just dropped it in, set the timing and have had no issues since over the past 4+ years. Until Dec this was my daily driver so there are a lot of miles on the clock with this set up. I got the round coil rather than the square one.

I have been running the Langdon's Mini HEI for close to 5 years with zero issues. Dropped it is, set the timing and been running great since. I will agree that the hold down is a bit tough to get to when adjusting the timing but once it is set you are good to go. Also other than the cap being a bit taller, it doesn't look out of place or like a non-stock distrubutor and if you go with the round standard looking coil most will never know you are not stock.

Here is a list of their distributors. http://www.bestgasket.com/distributors.asp

Listed on the HAMB pretty much everything you would need. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=695127&highlight=plymouth

If you have converted to 12V in your car and the transmission is from a 6V, there is really no need to worry about finding a 12V Solenoid. The 6V transmission will work fine with 12V. That is the way mine is and I have been running it for neary 4 years on 12V with 6V soleniod. A lot of the guys on the HAMB are running the 6V trans in 12V cars.

Bob good to see your nearing the finish line. Now, since you will be getting good and settled by time for the HAMB drags, I would suggest you christen the place with a big ol BBQ and Kegger. I'm sure you could find a few takers floating around the Holiday Inn parking lot. Looking forward to visiting with you in a few months. Will the vert be done by then? How about the coupe?

I have them in/on my 230 with no leaks to date. Used their rope rear main seal on my old 218 and it didn't leak prior to the valve breaking which lead to the 230.

Is that scientifically or dyno proven or just an opinion? Nearly all automobiles are equipped with an exhaust system designed to decrease noise levels, and transport the exhaust gases to the rear of the vehicle. Unfortunately, due to production cost considerations most exhaust systems are not optimized for maximum horsepower, torque, miles per gallon, or performance acoustics. Exhaust manifolds are built to the lowest possible price, sacrificing the flow of exhaust gases from the engine. Due to the firing order of each combustion chamber, the exhaust exits the exhaust ports at different intervals that can create back pressure if not properly tuned by altering each header runner length or seperating adjacent firing cylinders. Stock manifolds join the cylinders together in such a sort distance it is not possible to properly size each runner for optimal performance, isolate adjacent firing cylinders or smoothly transition the bends. These factors contribute to reductions in exhaust velocity, thereby robbing your vehicle's performance potential. Headers isolate adjacent firing cylinders, smooth the transition of each pipe to equalize funner length and direct pressure waves away from the combustion chamber. All this translate into less back pressure and increased exhaust velocity, which increases power and extends miles per gallon. Headers typically offer larger piping diameters than OEM manifolds. The larger diameter offers benefits even to a completely stock engine (because car makers are generally too conservative with exhaust pipe diameters) and even larger gains to modified engines, whose stock exhaust pipe diameter is severely limiting power gains of the cumulative effect of the upgrades. Overall, headers give your vehicle improvements in horsepower, torque, and miles per gallon. There are multiple articles out there that discuss the science (some say black magic) of exhaust manifold/header design. A little research is all that is needed. I'm not sure where the dump is located on your stock manifold but lets consider the worst case and say it is all the way to the rear of the manifold as some are. That would mean that the distance the exhaust from #1 travels is roughly 20 inches or so longer than that of #6 before reaching the down pipe. Also consider your firing order of 1,5,3,6,2,4 is there a chance that the exhaust charge of number #1 could be nearing then end of the manifold as #5 is trying to evacuate the exhaust gas from the cylinder? Same issue for #2 and #6. With headers splitting 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 and the fact that the exhaust gas flow is in individual pipes for much longer before joining into a single pipe the possibility of interference from a previously fired cylinder is greatly reduced. However, you are the only one who can determine if the cost is worth it. I am running cast iron headers on my 230 and drive it year round, in fact I have driven it when it was cold enough that I was scraping the inside of the windshield to be able to see (heater doesn't work). Ran just fine.

Dudford, I went out this morning and took a couple photos of a spare 57 bellhousing i have. As you can see your starter mounts much higher than the 57. In the one photo I tried to show the distance of the starter opening from the center of the input shaft opening on the transmission side of the bellhousing. In the other I tried to show the distance from the center of the starter opening to the locator pin opening on the bellhousing. When I get home from Church this afternoon I will make a pattern of the mounting face of the bellhousing and starter location on paper and mail it to you. Then if you want, you can use that pattern to transfer to wood to mock up everything to be sure it fits and transfer to an aluminum plate. Cut out your aluminum plate and sandwich between the block and bellhousing. If you take the thickness of the aluminum plate and remove the same amount from the face of the bellhousing everything should still line up. If it would be too much off the face of the bellhousing to leave material for bolting it up maybe you could take some off the front end where it bolts to the block and some off the back end where the transmission bolts on as long as you remove an amount equal to the aluminum plate you should be OK. I made the template this afternoon. It is not perfect but will get you close. I am off on a business trip this evening but my wife is going to get it in the mail to you. Hope it helps.

Would love to have the blue and white Lancer, but no where to put it and a pain to get it to TX anyway. Mom does have a garage not that far from there. Maybe I could talk her into leaving her car outside, put the Lancer in the garage and I could work on it every year when I am there for the HAMB drags and the couple of other times a year that I am there. At that rate I should be able to have it on the road before I croak.

I am probably 20-25 miles from Don's cousin in far north Plano. Our tornado sirens went off 5 or 6 times, but all we got was some heavy rain and a brief period of small hail. The Lancaster (south side of Dallas) and Forney (about 35 miles east of Dallas) were hit pretty hard. In addition to the trailers that were thrown at least 100 feet in the air, a woman in Forney was riding out the storm in her SUV waiting to pick up her daughter at the elementary school. The storm got bad enough that she decided to go into the building which was heavily damaged. When she came out her SUV was gone. She found it when the news helicopter showed a shot of it mangled in the middle of a field about 150yards from the school. I just thank the Lord that nobody was killed.

So how many are you buying Bob? Has to be a good project for you there to build and take to the HAMB Drags. Maybe the Grand Prix with the console mounted tach. That thing has either the 389 or 421 in it and also at least one of the 8 lug aluminum wheels.

That is a BIG project, but one that would make a beautiful restoration. If it were mine I would think twice about a restoration due to the level of work needed to bring it back to "factory" type specs along with the wad of cash as has already been mentioned. I would instead move it more toward the resto rod or street rod direction. With this type build you still get the car back on the road as great driver and get to enjoy a unique vehicle but greatly reduce at least the cash outlay if not the work load. A resto rod or street rod can get away with eliminating some of the chrome or using more readily available parts from different or newer models. You don't have to go to LeBaron Bonney or equivalent for the "correct" interior / top fabric. You don't have to search for the right window cranks / escutcheons etc. You would still have a pretty penny wrapped up in the build but I believe far less that a full on restoration and would likely be on the road far sooner. If a full restoration is what you want and is within your mechanical / financial means then I applaud you for wanting to follow that path and say go for it, I will be watching / cheering you on from the sidelines. For motivation, here is a link to one that sold at auction in 2009 for $28,600. http://www.remarkablecars.com/main/chrysler/chrysler-00018.html

I have Langdon's cast iron headers with 2 inch pipes and a cross over or "H" pipe propably 3 inches aft of the front edge of the door. Feeds into short 14 inch trubo style mufflers. They are a little louder now after a couple years but not a great deal. I think they sound pretty good.

If I remember correctly the parts and kit were about $550 or so. It has been a couple years so don't have exact numbers any longer.

I used the Rusty Hope kit and after gathering the brake parts at NAPA, it was a one day swap. Using a new stock master cylinder and am very happy with the brakes. Use the stock 15 inch wheels with no issues for fitment what so ever. Here is the parts list from AutoZone or Napa Disc Brakes GM Caliper A-184071/72 / N-2422032/33 Pads A-MKD154 / N-TS7070AM 78 Volare Rotors A-YH141145 / N-4885566 Caliper Bolts A-50022 / N-82205 Inner Wheel Bearing N-BR6 Outer Wheel Bearing N-BR2 Seals N-19500 Voalre Grease Caps N-730-2436 Wheel Nuts N-641-2024 Cotter Pins N-8080-4788 Brake Hoses N-36959 Banjo Bolts N-82703

Butch's also sells mounts for a small block Mopar in the P15, so you can leave your hood open at shows.

I know what you mean, I studied and studied and measured and studied some more before drilling a small pilot hole which then ran a larger bit then a larger bit before an even larger bit until it was a big enough hole.

Oh, I'm building the "Ramp Pit" http://www.homemadetools.net/ramp-pit car Teeter-Totter only I'm building mine about 48 inches tall instead of 16 so that I can set on a stool while I work on the transmission. I know what you mean though, some good ideas but some of those things look a little dangerous to me.