Tom Skinner

Like Dezeldoc said if you let off the gas and clutch it and it goes away its not the shaft. It is Clutch Judder. Vibration in a small window say 28-30mhp., or 35-38mph is usually Clutch Judder, its either wet with oil from a rear engine seal, wet from a leaky Transmition, or wet from a leaky damper seal at the Fluid Coupler, or worn out. Tom

Try a Pep Boys, in his book "A Chrysler Chronicle" Dave Floyd the Author states he found some in the bicycle section. I found mine in the Pep Boys Reflector Section, about $8. They sell em on ebay to for about $25 Tom

Tim, Thanks! Tom

Tim, Excellent! Really good photos also. Great Job. May I ask did you make that tank? If purchased, where from would be my next question. Tom

Thanks! I hope the guy that removes them from the parts car doesn't wreck em Tom PS I will email him immediateley

Good Evening Gents, I was wondering, how do you remove/install the hand grab straps at the rear window walls? Do they screw in? I finally found a pair and want to install them in my 2nd 1948 Chrysler Royal. I sold my first car in 1984 so I can't look at it to see how. Tom

Thanks for the information about Tanks Inc. I will definetely go with a new one if needed. I will drop my old one and have a peek inside first. Maybe a litle cleaning is all thats needed. If not replacing it sure beats re-conditioning it. Tom

Norm, Nice pictures, Thanks for sharing. So you got the old one off, where did you find a replacement? Tom

Dear Bob, Enough wit dat Big Fat Hammer already yet! When your close get someone to push in the clutch pedal, and she will drop right in. The Tip of the Trans Shaft will drop into the Pilot Bushing. You are probably being held off/out by 3/4" to 7/8" right? Thats the ticket. Later Gator, In da Movies! Tom

Woodie, I just now took a brass brush and cleaned my torque wheel and found my timing marks!!! They are there you just need to brush it clean. Tom

Fernando, I have a 250.6 6 Cylinder Flat Head it tunes as follows: Firing Order 153624 for a 6 Cylinder Flat Head, #1 is at 7:00 on the Distributor. Set Points at .020 set Plugs at .025 Set Timing until you hear a slight pinging of the plugs at full throttle between 10-25mph, Use a Vacumm gauge to Set the Carburator. Set the RPM's first around 450-500 then Set the mixture screw until you get the highest reading in inches - say 20" to 21". Tom

Woodie, I have the same problem with my 1948 Royal C-38 6 Cylinder 250.6 There are no calibration marks on my Crankshaft Torque Wheel and I seem to be advanced about 3" on the Exhaust Manifold side of my Wheel in order to achieve power with a timing light. I had a chaulk mark on it when I bought the car used it as a guide when timing it, and havent re-painted one on it yet to show at the Pointer. so I guess I will have to find TDC and mark it appropriately also. Any other ideas out there? I heard an old timer say once you have to run them advanced 7-15degrees to get any real power out of them. Advance it to much and it runs hot. I would think just enough to hear a ping under full throttle between 10-25mph is enough. Tom

Daer Shel, I think that if you change plugs (New) and run them say 200-300 miles then read them you will get a better reading. The plugs in your picture look like they have been in for quite some time. But I guess reading them any time is usefull. Tom

Phil, Kanter Auto Parts have em with the "Bat Wing" Tabs. (973) 334-9575 (Booton, NJ.). Tom

Ed, I have seen them on 1948 Chrysler's just like that one. I have also owned 2 and still own one for some 13 years total and drove them as everydays and have never had stones get thrown against that part of the front fender. That is pure cool eye candy - nothing else. Its still is pretty nice looking, but serves no real function. Tom

Greg is right. afterwards check your plugs and see if they have a lot of carbon on them. Take it for a long highway ride say 30 miles at say 55 -60 mph. That should blow out the crap in there and settle her down to a nice quiet idle. Tom

Dear Arthur1947, I would like to Credit that information to "Automotive Trouble Shooting" "For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles" Volume #1 by Robert Notman, Page #33. I would Also Like to Credit the Dynamic Timing Description I gave you to Poplar Mechanics Magazine May 1976 Issue Page #175. I do it this way and it works DEAD ON. Another Service Reference Book Prepared by Chrysler Crporation "Tech Says" Volumn #1 No.#1 Sept. 1947 describes it exactly as I have to you, using a home made Vacumm Stopper to check for Vacumm Advance, See Imperial Web Page Tech Booklets about Distributor Advance Mechanisms. Good Luck! Tom

Dear Arthur1947, Static Time: Motor Off/Not Running: Ditributor Cap and Rotor Removed. With the piston of the No.#1 Cylinder on TDC (Top Dead Center) timing marks aligned the Points should just be opening. Loosen the Dist. Clamp and turn housing Clockwise until Points are closed. Turn on the Ignition Switch. Hold the High Tension wire that comes out of the center of the Cap 1/4" away from a good ground. Turn the Dist. housing CounterClockwise until a Spark jumps the Gap from the High Tension Wire to Ground. At this Point The Points are just Opening. Tighten the Dist Clamp = Static Time. Dynamic Time is Running the Engine and using a Timing Light as I described above. Once you set your timing use your Timing Light to observe if the Timing Mark advances while increasing RPM's Throttle to about 750 RPM's If it does not you probably have Dist Advance issues, if it Advances say 5-10 Degrees then you are probably fine. Tom

Dear Arthur1947, Remember to stick a Golf Tee in the Vacumm Tube after disconecting it then set the timing. Just diconnecting it won't do it. It must be stopped off. Once your satisfied with the timing, hook it back up and then use a Vacumm gauge to set your Carburator Mixture Screw to the highest reading in inches. Tom

Dear Hilmarman, What Year is you car? Motor cid? Bypass Waterpump? If all of these pertain to a 250.6 cu in Flathead w/Bypass Waterpump: Then you need a Hose with 2 Clamps. Tom Skinner

Dear Shel, Where is this yard located? I am in North Carolina and remember fondly visiting a yard in Washington, New Jersey in the 70's when I had my first 1948 Chrysler Royal for parts as a youngster. The EPA closed that Junk Yard down about ten years ago. Now with a second 1948 Chrysler Royal I would relish the opportunity to do so again. (Visit a yard). I know you probably want to keep it a secret so I will leave you my phone number. Tom Skinner (704) 400-1284 (2) 1948 Chrysler Royals over the last 35 years.

Brian, There are two types, one armature pushes off the bottom of the Cam, the other off the top of the cam. You must use the same as you removed from it. I read this in an old Maintenance Manual once or off this Forum in the Technical Archives, or The Imperial Tech Says Booklets. Be careful or you may damage something. Tom

Greg is right about the loading grease into those rear bearings. The reason Rear End Gear Oil is leaking out there is the inner rear axle seals are shot. I would drill and Tap a "Filler Hole" and Plug into place, drain it, fill it and try it. Or try pulling the drums and determine if that noise is shot rear axle bearings or races. It will only cost a little money and time to try that first before embarking on a totally new rear end. It will probably correct the problem. Tom

Well there were 2 different rear ends in 1946, 1947, and 1948. The one with the plug on the rear hump of the Pumpkin was a C-38. The one with the 5/16" Drain plug at the bottom of the pumpkin a C-37. Chrysler, Plymouth Dodge and Desoto installed whatever they had in stock at the time of assembly. The 2 plugs you removed on either end of the axle that bled gear oil only prove your inner rear oil seals are shot, not that you have a fubared rear end. I would try to eliminate the possibilities before I would let some ignorant mechanic bill you for ignorant work. Tom

To Print, use save a my pictures, then go to my pictures, and print. You will get it all then. By the way my wife works for Domestic Attorneys they have this posted on the bulletin board at work. So women might learn how to behave. Good advice for any couple, I should think. My dad expected this from my mother and it was ok then, why not now? Why not now? Because women want to wear the pants today, and a bunch of pansies are letting them. Here is some advise..... Be like Pop not like Sis lift the seat before you piss.