Tom Skinner

Phil, Kanter Auto Parts have em with the "Bat Wing" Tabs. (973) 334-9575 (Booton, NJ.). Tom

Ed, I have seen them on 1948 Chrysler's just like that one. I have also owned 2 and still own one for some 13 years total and drove them as everydays and have never had stones get thrown against that part of the front fender. That is pure cool eye candy - nothing else. Its still is pretty nice looking, but serves no real function. Tom

Greg is right. afterwards check your plugs and see if they have a lot of carbon on them. Take it for a long highway ride say 30 miles at say 55 -60 mph. That should blow out the crap in there and settle her down to a nice quiet idle. Tom

Dear Arthur1947, I would like to Credit that information to "Automotive Trouble Shooting" "For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles" Volume #1 by Robert Notman, Page #33. I would Also Like to Credit the Dynamic Timing Description I gave you to Poplar Mechanics Magazine May 1976 Issue Page #175. I do it this way and it works DEAD ON. Another Service Reference Book Prepared by Chrysler Crporation "Tech Says" Volumn #1 No.#1 Sept. 1947 describes it exactly as I have to you, using a home made Vacumm Stopper to check for Vacumm Advance, See Imperial Web Page Tech Booklets about Distributor Advance Mechanisms. Good Luck! Tom

Dear Arthur1947, Static Time: Motor Off/Not Running: Ditributor Cap and Rotor Removed. With the piston of the No.#1 Cylinder on TDC (Top Dead Center) timing marks aligned the Points should just be opening. Loosen the Dist. Clamp and turn housing Clockwise until Points are closed. Turn on the Ignition Switch. Hold the High Tension wire that comes out of the center of the Cap 1/4" away from a good ground. Turn the Dist. housing CounterClockwise until a Spark jumps the Gap from the High Tension Wire to Ground. At this Point The Points are just Opening. Tighten the Dist Clamp = Static Time. Dynamic Time is Running the Engine and using a Timing Light as I described above. Once you set your timing use your Timing Light to observe if the Timing Mark advances while increasing RPM's Throttle to about 750 RPM's If it does not you probably have Dist Advance issues, if it Advances say 5-10 Degrees then you are probably fine. Tom

Dear Arthur1947, Remember to stick a Golf Tee in the Vacumm Tube after disconecting it then set the timing. Just diconnecting it won't do it. It must be stopped off. Once your satisfied with the timing, hook it back up and then use a Vacumm gauge to set your Carburator Mixture Screw to the highest reading in inches. Tom

Dear Hilmarman, What Year is you car? Motor cid? Bypass Waterpump? If all of these pertain to a 250.6 cu in Flathead w/Bypass Waterpump: Then you need a Hose with 2 Clamps. Tom Skinner

Dear Shel, Where is this yard located? I am in North Carolina and remember fondly visiting a yard in Washington, New Jersey in the 70's when I had my first 1948 Chrysler Royal for parts as a youngster. The EPA closed that Junk Yard down about ten years ago. Now with a second 1948 Chrysler Royal I would relish the opportunity to do so again. (Visit a yard). I know you probably want to keep it a secret so I will leave you my phone number. Tom Skinner (704) 400-1284 (2) 1948 Chrysler Royals over the last 35 years.

Brian, There are two types, one armature pushes off the bottom of the Cam, the other off the top of the cam. You must use the same as you removed from it. I read this in an old Maintenance Manual once or off this Forum in the Technical Archives, or The Imperial Tech Says Booklets. Be careful or you may damage something. Tom

Greg is right about the loading grease into those rear bearings. The reason Rear End Gear Oil is leaking out there is the inner rear axle seals are shot. I would drill and Tap a "Filler Hole" and Plug into place, drain it, fill it and try it. Or try pulling the drums and determine if that noise is shot rear axle bearings or races. It will only cost a little money and time to try that first before embarking on a totally new rear end. It will probably correct the problem. Tom

Well there were 2 different rear ends in 1946, 1947, and 1948. The one with the plug on the rear hump of the Pumpkin was a C-38. The one with the 5/16" Drain plug at the bottom of the pumpkin a C-37. Chrysler, Plymouth Dodge and Desoto installed whatever they had in stock at the time of assembly. The 2 plugs you removed on either end of the axle that bled gear oil only prove your inner rear oil seals are shot, not that you have a fubared rear end. I would try to eliminate the possibilities before I would let some ignorant mechanic bill you for ignorant work. Tom

To Print, use save a my pictures, then go to my pictures, and print. You will get it all then. By the way my wife works for Domestic Attorneys they have this posted on the bulletin board at work. So women might learn how to behave. Good advice for any couple, I should think. My dad expected this from my mother and it was ok then, why not now? Why not now? Because women want to wear the pants today, and a bunch of pansies are letting them. Here is some advise..... Be like Pop not like Sis lift the seat before you piss.

Dear Ramon, Looks like your Tranny is Standard, not Fluid Drive, however that Booklet still pertains. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Ramon, When I re-installed my Clutch and Tranny on my 1948 Chrysler Royal Fluid Drive and installed new Rear Motor Mounts, I had no Reverse Gear. Check and Adjust your Transmission Linkage at the Steering Column just in front of the Firewall. You probably will get back your Gears that way. Go to Chrysler Imperial Club Web Site and look at their Technical Booklets. Transmission Fundamentals Volumn # 2 Number # 6 Copyright, 1949, Page 20, and 21. (Adjusting the Linkage to Fit and Movement of the Selector Lever) This should help. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

How boot dat? I,m all for Diamond Studded Collars and Lead Additives then! I even grind up Chelated Zinc Tablets and throw some in my New Oil at an Oil and Filter Change. Use about 200mg. every Oil change and it feels sooooooo goooood. Doc says it Keeps the Prostate flowin to. Tom

I used a small Hack Saw Blade loose out of the Saw. Go slow and do not cut to deep into shaft, it wil go fast. Tom

I am getting ready to do a clutch job, and have to remove the Transmission. I have a Fluid Drive and the Manual states remove the Govenor and Selenoid, how do the come off/out do you just un-screw them at the base? Tom

I have a 1948 Chrysler, that the previous owner put L78-15 Coker Wide White Tubeless Tires on. They rub on the inner rear fenders on sharp curves. The old size in my manual call for 700 x 15 it seems my tires are too wide. I hate to have to buy new when thes are new, but I cannot abide with the wrong size on there. My question is can "New Radials" satisfy the old size I need or will they be to wide like my problem now and not narrower as was proper (not rubbing the rear inner fenders on sharp curve) while still being Wide White Walls. Tom

Bill, Thanks for sharing positive news about a good service provider. It is refreshing to see happy people sharing good news on this Forum. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Ditto Rodney! I need a Fluid Coupler and Clutch disk for my 48, where praytell else would I get them if I cop an attitude against Andy Bernbaum. I will call him and make an order because the previous times I have called him he was extremely helpful. If some of you guys are to sensitive to deal with him, maybe you should shop elswhere. Bashing Andy B. is just plain wrong, and misdirected. The Bible tells us to go to our brother and try to settle our differences with him. Complaining on-line is not going to do anything but stir it, and when you stir it your going to get some of it on you. He (Andy Bernbaum) in my opinion, is my Parts Hero. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

He got them out in pieces Tom

Thanks! That is a lot of help! I appreciate your time! Tom

Jim, I have the cross Type, but what bolts do you undo first? Tom

Gents, Today after a ride that had vibration between 25-30mph, I pulled into the garage and chaulked my wheel, and released my emergency brake. I then crawled under my 1948 Chrysler Royal and shook the Universal Joint. It had excessive play. It was then that I saw a loose Retainer Clip in my front U-Joint give way/fall out. I know this is going to sound ignorant, but how do you take out the U-Joints, and replace them? I read that one removes the rear one first, then drop the Universal Shaft, then remove the front one other than that I am at a loss as to how, and where to start. Andy B has them for $79 a pop. Should I replace the Pinion Seal while I'm into it also? Tom Skinner Huntersville NC (704) 912-3060

Gents, Today after a ride that had vibration between 25-30mph, I pulled into the garage and chaulked my wheel, and released my emergency brake. I then crawled under my 1948 Chrysler Royal and shook the Universal Joint. It had excessive play. It was then that I saw a loose Retainer Clip in my front U-Joint give way/fall out. I know this is going to sound ignorant, but how do you take out the U-Joints, and replace them? I read that one removes the rear one first, then drop the Universal Shaft, then remove the front one other than that I am at a loss as to how, and where to start. Andy B has them for $79 a pop. Should I replace the Pinion Seal while I'm into it also? Tom Skinner Huntersville NC (704) 912-3060