Tom Skinner

Dear Ramon, Looks like your Tranny is Standard, not Fluid Drive, however that Booklet still pertains. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Ramon, When I re-installed my Clutch and Tranny on my 1948 Chrysler Royal Fluid Drive and installed new Rear Motor Mounts, I had no Reverse Gear. Check and Adjust your Transmission Linkage at the Steering Column just in front of the Firewall. You probably will get back your Gears that way. Go to Chrysler Imperial Club Web Site and look at their Technical Booklets. Transmission Fundamentals Volumn # 2 Number # 6 Copyright, 1949, Page 20, and 21. (Adjusting the Linkage to Fit and Movement of the Selector Lever) This should help. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

How boot dat? I,m all for Diamond Studded Collars and Lead Additives then! I even grind up Chelated Zinc Tablets and throw some in my New Oil at an Oil and Filter Change. Use about 200mg. every Oil change and it feels sooooooo goooood. Doc says it Keeps the Prostate flowin to. Tom

I used a small Hack Saw Blade loose out of the Saw. Go slow and do not cut to deep into shaft, it wil go fast. Tom

I am getting ready to do a clutch job, and have to remove the Transmission. I have a Fluid Drive and the Manual states remove the Govenor and Selenoid, how do the come off/out do you just un-screw them at the base? Tom

I have a 1948 Chrysler, that the previous owner put L78-15 Coker Wide White Tubeless Tires on. They rub on the inner rear fenders on sharp curves. The old size in my manual call for 700 x 15 it seems my tires are too wide. I hate to have to buy new when thes are new, but I cannot abide with the wrong size on there. My question is can "New Radials" satisfy the old size I need or will they be to wide like my problem now and not narrower as was proper (not rubbing the rear inner fenders on sharp curve) while still being Wide White Walls. Tom

Bill, Thanks for sharing positive news about a good service provider. It is refreshing to see happy people sharing good news on this Forum. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Ditto Rodney! I need a Fluid Coupler and Clutch disk for my 48, where praytell else would I get them if I cop an attitude against Andy Bernbaum. I will call him and make an order because the previous times I have called him he was extremely helpful. If some of you guys are to sensitive to deal with him, maybe you should shop elswhere. Bashing Andy B. is just plain wrong, and misdirected. The Bible tells us to go to our brother and try to settle our differences with him. Complaining on-line is not going to do anything but stir it, and when you stir it your going to get some of it on you. He (Andy Bernbaum) in my opinion, is my Parts Hero. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

He got them out in pieces Tom

Thanks! That is a lot of help! I appreciate your time! Tom

Jim, I have the cross Type, but what bolts do you undo first? Tom

Gents, Today after a ride that had vibration between 25-30mph, I pulled into the garage and chaulked my wheel, and released my emergency brake. I then crawled under my 1948 Chrysler Royal and shook the Universal Joint. It had excessive play. It was then that I saw a loose Retainer Clip in my front U-Joint give way/fall out. I know this is going to sound ignorant, but how do you take out the U-Joints, and replace them? I read that one removes the rear one first, then drop the Universal Shaft, then remove the front one other than that I am at a loss as to how, and where to start. Andy B has them for $79 a pop. Should I replace the Pinion Seal while I'm into it also? Tom Skinner Huntersville NC (704) 912-3060

Gents, Today after a ride that had vibration between 25-30mph, I pulled into the garage and chaulked my wheel, and released my emergency brake. I then crawled under my 1948 Chrysler Royal and shook the Universal Joint. It had excessive play. It was then that I saw a loose Retainer Clip in my front U-Joint give way/fall out. I know this is going to sound ignorant, but how do you take out the U-Joints, and replace them? I read that one removes the rear one first, then drop the Universal Shaft, then remove the front one other than that I am at a loss as to how, and where to start. Andy B has them for $79 a pop. Should I replace the Pinion Seal while I'm into it also? Tom Skinner Huntersville NC (704) 912-3060

Mopar Specialists: I have a buddy with a 1947 Windsor with a 250.6 6 cylinder motor that will not turn by hand. He removed the head, droped the pan and some connecting rods caps, but it is pretty much frozen. He PB Blasted it numerous ocassions. He even tried to jack a wooden stick up into the piston to free it with only a tiny bit 1/16" movement. My question is do you think the rings are frozen? How do free it, and go about fixing the problem? Tom

Just a side note: I used a hub wheel/puller to pull my drum, the axle pulls out by hand no tool or puller needed. Tom Skinner

The Odometer reads 47,000 + and the description of the Vehicle indicates it has 99,000. Tom

47Heaven, If you call Andy B on that he will tell you he has no more, (He's got no more souce for them) I have pesterd him a couple of times for the same part about a year ago and he sounded bothered by my attempts. He might have changed that (turned that situation around as of late however). Tom

Aussie D25, Welcome to the Forum from another "Oldun" (thats southern USA for Oldun). I didnt have kids until I was in my 40,s and my 12 year old told me a joke the other day: What does a Prius sound like when it passes you on the Highway? (In a high voice building to a long sound) I'mmmmmmmmmmmmGaaay. stupid I know but I still laughed. Welcome aboard! Tom:)

I read some time ago if you remove the front seat you can "Lay Down" inside the car with a pillow if one desires and wire away. Just a thought, when I remove my front seat (8) Bolts, I Service my Fluid Drive, Transmission, and Bleed my Brakes, and get my monies worth so to speak, however if I get to re-wiring I am going to remove the Front Seat again, as Pat said if I live long enough. Tom PS. Removing the Radio give one lots of elbow room too!

Fred Great pics, and Great work, thanks for sharing products. Once your Gas tank is back on you can lay mirrors around her at the shows. Tom

Central52, Trying to recollect the proper order of tuning lets see: 1. Change the Points. Condenser, and Plugs. 2. Check the Dwell with a Dwell Meter. to see if Points are correctly set. 3. Set the Timing. using a Timing Light. 4. Check your Lean/Rich Mixture at the Carburator using a Vacumn Gauge at the Intake Exhaust Outlet/Opening 5. Finally using a Tachometer set your RPM's at the Throttle Screw at the Carburator. Or just set the Timing with the Dizzy Loose using a Vacumn Gage then set Lean/Rich Screw at the Carb, each time obtaining your highest reading, then Use a Tach to check RPM's. With a Fluid Drive seek 7mph, in gear from a stop. Tom

Dear P15-D24, Thanks! I will do that. Tom

Gents, I am looking for an Axle Puller for a 1948 Chrysler does any one know if renting a "modern" one works, or should I be looking at flea markets etc. Tom Skinner

Shel Bizzy 48, That is what I call ingenuity! Great Tools are made at home, when necessity is the mother of invention. Thanks for sharing the pictures and information. Tom

The Vent is free and clean. I a'm afraid it is the inner seal. When pulling the Axel, how do you know when putting it back in you are at the right place/spot of insertion? Tom