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Doug&Deb

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Everything posted by Doug&Deb

  1. If you decide to run inline residual valves you don’t need one to each disc. Run a 2lb to the front and a 10lb to the rear. I used the shortest pre made nickel copper lines available at the local parts store. The valves need to be close to the master cylinder. You do need to remove the residual valve from the master though. 10lbs is too much pressure for the discs.
  2. Looks like a shift rite knob. An aftermarket device that enabled you to kick down the M6 trans into 3rd gear without flooring the accelerator.
  3. Do you still have the original master cylinder on the car? If so remove the residual valve from the master and add a 2lb inline valve to the front and a 10lb inline valve to the rear. I have a scarebird kit on my 52 Coronet and this setup has worked well for me.
  4. Beautiful car! The Highlander interior was available on all Chrysler cars in the 40’s and early 50’s. You’re in the right place for any help. Lots of knowledge here.
  5. Not often. It was idling a bit roughly the other day and I noticed the carb being loose. The carb is pretty worn. I have another one that I rebuilt. I’m planning on getting that on soon. I’ll try re-tightening when warm and see if it helps.
  6. Both my 52 Coronet and the 49 D24 I used to have had the problem of the carb loosening. I’m wondering if the gasket is somehow shrinking as it gets hot. I use blue loctite. It’s not loosening much just enough to need a quarter turn to tighten. I’m thinking of making a gasket from some high temperature gasket material I have. It’s what I have under the sisson choke. Any thoughts?
  7. All Dodges had the fluid coupling. A 3 speed was standard equipment for the Meadowbrook but Gyromatic was an option. Is there a box attached to the air cleaner support bracket with 4 wires attached to it? If so it’s a Gyromatic. Also the Gyromatic has no 1st gear position. If it’s a Gyromatic many of us have them and can explain how to use it. Keep us posted.
  8. I have used AW32 hydraulic oil in my M6 trans with no problem. I drain and change the fluid every oil change. The other plug on the trans is to access the bolt for the shift fork I believe. I’m at work so no access to my service manual.
  9. My D24 had a switch under the dash to manually turn on the backup lights. I’m not aware of a factory switch.
  10. Usually 450-500 is correct. It seems really slow compared to what we’re used to on a modern vehicle. Mine is set at 475. I have the M-6 trans and any higher and it won’t shift.
  11. All of the wheel cylinders should have bleeders. Did you bleed the master cylinder first? Bleeding the brakes can be finicky because of the master cylinder being below the wheel cylinders. I highly recommend replacing all of the lines both metal and rubber. Nickel copper line is easy to work with and lasts a long time. If you twisted the end off a line I’d suspect all of them. Remember it’s a single reservoir master. Any leak and you lose brakes.
  12. If it’s like the D24 I had the shaft is integral to the box and the wire does go through it.
  13. The choke does work when the starter engages but it shouldn’t fully open immediately. There is a bi-metallic spring that allows it to fully open as the engine warms up. If it’s been a while since you rebuilt the carb it wouldn’t be a bad idea to rebuild it again. The new kits are ethanol resistant. A new fuel pump with ethanol resistant diaphragm will eliminate future problems also.
  14. Yes it can be removed without removing the radiator. Take the battery box out. It gives you more room to get to the bolts. Are you talking about the 2 bolts on the bottom or the adjustment bolt on top? The bottom bolts may be easier to access from underneath. It’s been 8 years since I sold my D24 but I don’t remember it being that difficult to remove.
  15. Boots are available for the driveshaft. Cleaning and new grease is usually all that’s necessary for maintenance. Follow the procedure in the service manual.
  16. I recommend checking the service manual to be sure but it’s not uncommon to find the coil wired backwards.
  17. I think yours was wired backwards. The + should go to the dist. The car will run with it wired backwards just not as good. Don’t ask how I know.
  18. Be very careful if you use the nylon washer. My drain plug came loose. At first I thought I hadn’t tightened it enough until it happened again. Fortunately it was in the garage and didn’t completely come off. I believe Grainger is where I found copper washers. I’m at work so I don’t have the part number handy.
  19. Put up hay for 3 different farms starting when I was 12. Did that till I got a license then pumped gas. That was gravy compared to throwing hay bales!
  20. Believe it or not I don’t think that engine is terminal. If you’re going to rebuild an engine the original will mount to the trans and fluid drive unit without problem. Just my 2 cents worth.
  21. Did you reinstall the heat riser spring to the correct tension? I made the same mistake years ago on my D-24. It would run for about 10 minutes until the fuel would boil in the carb causing vapor lock. Reinstalling the spring solved the problem.
  22. Rhode Island Wiring or YNZ Wiring
  23. My Coronet has 15x7 police wheels with 225/75r15 radials. The speedometer reads correct at all speeds. It’s important to match the diameter of the radials to the original bias tires. As much as I prefer the look of the bias tires I drive my car at least 3000 miles a year. If I need tires they’re easy to find and affordable.
  24. Ethanol in the gas does cause it to evaporate. I agree with Plymouthy to check the bowl for fuel. My Coronet requires extra cranking after sitting but it always starts.
  25. Yokohama 21501 7.00R15. Forum member James Douglas recommended these. They are the correct height to keep your speedometer correct. They fit properly on the stock rims.
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