Ivan_B

You are right... ? I wonder what the seal manufacturers think of these, though, because I cannot image the sleeve being so thin that it actually fits within the seal seating clearance specified by the OEM.

What's a Speedi sleeve? A jacket you put on a worn hub to use with oversized seal? That groove is too much. If you can see it with your eyes, the seal will not seal properly... ? The proper way to fix that is to get a new hub or machine the existing one (proper sleeve or metal coating).

Are you planning to put on some leather skin on the steering wheel? I was thinking of having it ivory-colored, to match the knobs, but receive the wrong color leather - too dark. Goes well with my old sun-burned knobs, but not with the new ones I might get some day ?

My car was out of state, so I also had to do an official vin check. But, regardless of the state laws, you should always check the vin, etc. Otherwise, you are just transferring the title (the piece of paper) in your name, and nothing else, if that title cannot be linked to the specific vehicle at hand. So, Marko, did you find any numbers on the car?

Well, he can technically bolt a recliner to the frame and take a chance... ?

Did you at least transfer the title to yourself? Or is your state very relaxed about motor vehicle registration and does not check the vin either? These old cars do not technically have a vin, but an engine, chassis (frame), and a body number. Some of these will be the same number, depending on the model. So, you should be able to find at least one number matching to your title, somewhere. If i recall correctly, the chassis number on some cars is also stamped in several places on the frame. I can see one behind the driver's real wheel, on my sedan, for example.

Sorry, a silly question: how did you check it when you bought the truck yourself? ?

Going back to the original issue: did you order the same oil filter you had in there before? There were a few different options, available, using different filters (I believe). My engine is using Wix 51076, and I have an orange FRAM canister

I suspect that the author is interested in advise on getting the specific car, and not about the police stuff. A short story is: check everything. Especially underneath the car. If you have some pictures, feel free to share them here, we have plenty of qualified critics available

Hi Dave, Thank you very much for the reply. Your illustration is showing a correct OEM thermostat, with the main opening on top (closed when cold) and the bypass openings on the sides (open when cold). The thermostat I found must be from a way different housing configuration. Although, I checked, the way it sits inside the housing, its valves will only be able to open about half way up. So it looks like when both - hot and cold, the flow of coolant in my engine was open through the radiator and the bypass at the same time, with the radiator part becoming somewhat more restricted with rising temperature ? I already ordered an OEM thermostat, waiting for delivery. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256372276175

I believe that those are called worm gear clamps. Virtually the most common clamps, these days. I personally, prefer the t-bolt or spring clamps, for some reason. Also, I believe that spring clamps are actually technologically superior because they supply constant pressure to the hose. But the early cars have an open cooling system, so it is not like you need a lot of force to hold the clamps in place. Also, I've seen different types of clamps in different Chrysler illustrations from 1940-50. Some wire clamps had Philips screws, some had round slotted head. Once, saw a single wire spring clamp on the bypass hose ?

That should be the last option ever. Even if you need to remove the remains of the plug physically, I would first attempt to cut it up to the thread, from the inside, with a tiny saw blade. And then pry it out toward the center of the hole. I've removed some stuck bolts like this in the past. You drill it out, but at a smaller diameter, and then chisel away the old threads. If you are careful, the hole itself remains the same way it used to be

Is there a shackle in the rear? Otherwise, this leaf spring will have no place to expand under load... Could be a cool DIY lowering, as well ?

Maybe this little guy? ?

These are regular radiator hoses, made to look like the ones produced in the past. Here are the sizes, for the 201/218 engine, from the manual: Enjoy.

Do you think the grill is not chromed because of the special styling requirements, or due to the fact that this was a "on a-budget-budget" project? ? Also, can't believe they forgot to mention extra nuts under the hood! That's a deal breaker ?

Same car, already reported:

Posting ended, not sold ?

Sorry, I certainly meant the drums, assuming that we are dealing with the OEM brakes. Thank you for the correction.

One more question: are all the new components (and especially the master and slave cylinders) the correct OEM size? Some of the aftermarket cylinders might be smaller, and that will considerably increase the requisite pedal force.

No, it is not. I assume you are feeling good pressure at the pedal and it is not just going to the floor? For the very basics, I would start by making sure that: 1) bearing grease is not leaking onto the rotors 2) brake fluid is not leaking onto the rotors 3) the rotors are clean (you've probably figured it out by now) 4) the shoes match the rotors with a good (large) contact area. Technically, you should grind\machine the shoes to fit the individual rotor properly. Also, the rotors themselves should be perfectly cylindrical (verified with an indicator). The disc brakes are much less sensitive to the above problems, due to the way they function

Please check all of the bulbs, and try to remember what happened to the wiring in the replaced junction box. Is it possible to return it into its original configuration, for testing?

Thanks. The specs are available here: https://desoto.org/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/attachments/54/22950=2553-803.pdf None of the tubes, unfortunately, are compatible with my unit, so I'll have to pass. If you want to get rid of it, and no one here is interested, we can post it on AntiqueRadios forum, I have an account there.

Well, there are a few ways to get it out. First, you can probably try the heat/cold/oil and the extractor method: If that does not work, the other methods would involve physically destroying the left-over plug and potentially getting metal shavings inside the cylinder. If it's dry, you might be able to clean those out with a vacuum/magnet, etc. As a last resort - the head comes off

Do you have a picture of how it's broken? You might have to remove the head to get that fixed...