Ivan_B

Got it. You really should not need to take it out to put in a new condenser, though. It is just two screws - one holds the condenser, another one - the wire lead. It will probably require more effort to get to the distributor clamp screw and pull the vacuum line off For bending metal tubing, so that it looks professional, it us useful to just get a cheap manual tube bender (groovy cylinder with a handle). If you are getting a simple flaring tool (and you are, if you plan to do your own tubing), some of them already come with a simple bender as well. The local parts store probably have all those for loan too.

Good point, but you have to read those amazon ads carefully. They do say it is nicop, but do not actually state that it is 100% nicop (reminds me of the free vs. absolutely free stand-up joke). Anyway, technically, this is not a misleading/false advertisement. They just list the best point (line is nicop) but hide the worst (only nicop-coated). Also, I just found-out myself that "fill synthetic" and "100% synthetic" motor oils are actually not the same thing. The adjustment you need to do is very-very minor... Also, does your vacuum unit still holds vacuum? Mine sure doesn't Do you actually have the equipment to do the timing/vacuum advance on the bench? Also, how would you close-fit the metal line without having everything mounted on the engine? Or are you talking about taking the old line off and duplicating it on the bench, or something like that? 🤨

Simple forms like that you can probably just cut yourself from applicable sheet material Otherwise, if you can do a CAD model or 3D scan, you can print anything you want.

Since the problem is observed while running vs. non-running, I would guess it is clutch-related. I might be wrong, but I don't really see a linkage adjustment being related to the engine operation. See if it can be shifted manually from underneath the car.

Our local Autozone has both copper and steel lines available, and they are cheaper than other places too. Online is even more cheap, especially if you want to do the whole car at once.

Why would you ever want one? I was constantly looking for it when I first switched from a modern car to a classic (and that is only because I mainly drove manual transmission cars before). Now, once I got used to driving a classic with just the speedometer (be that a car or a motorcycle) there appears to be absolutely no use in a tachometer. Besides, maybe, idle adjustment 😉 Also, your idle is probably too high 😇

Length of nickel-copper stuff is also available at the local auto parts joint

Maybe 3/8-24 UNF? 🤔

Wooden blocks could be useful for storage, so that you still have your regular stand available for other purposes. You can go as high as you can reasonably raise the car with the jack, assuming that you increase the width of the stand accordingly for good balance

Did you paint the dash with the windshield installed in place? 🤨

Do you have a wiring diagram for your truck? I would start there. Also, what turn signal switch are you using? It should have specific wiring instructions (which might not apply to your car). 12v flasher will likely not work in a 6v system, so you might have to order another one.

What kind of illustrations are you referring to? There were different types of bumper guards available. Also, have you attempted to look-up your original car's registration? Maybe it is still around somewhere Unless, of course, you were the one who totaled it 🤣

Are these Ford-made MBs? I would sure like to get one, fresh from the truck 🥲

This was not the question, but your float needle is probably blocked by some trash. You do not even need to take the carb apart to check that, just unscrew the seat from the side. Could be a 1 minute fix, literally

Alternatively, since you are taking the engine out, you can try to undo the mounts and tilt it with the lift so that the transmission drops down, a bit, allowing more access from underneath. Make sure that you do not hurt yourself working with heavy equipment, though. Also, if you take the nose apart, pulling the engine and transmission together is soo much more convenient... That's what they did at the assembly line 😉

Is your new wheel sitting on the center of the hub/axle or is there some space in there? 🤔 Pretty sure the OEM wheel is hub-centric. There is also normally 5 rivets holding the drum to the hub. Can we, maybe, see a picture of your drum without the wheel?

Is the engine turning okay? I suspect that another issue could be a seized engine 🙄

I was under impression that dielectric grease and cam lobe/points lube are different types of grease And dialectic is something completely different 😅 I do have the grease cup and it is packed with bearing grease and is being used according to specs, thanks.

Was the car originally red, or are you planning to re-paint it red? 😉

I suspect that most shops would not want to touch it. First of all, this is not something they are familiar with (extra time, labor, not profit-efficient). And second, if they brake it, they do not want to be responsible Do you have some corrosion issues above the rear glass? You should probably fix those before installing the glass. The metal lip underneath the moldings is often rusted.

Thanks for the reply. I already ordered some NOS points to see if I can get the correct dwell with them. This is funny, I just watched the same video, yesterday, and also discovered that this is a simple resistance reading...

I had to look it up... Never seen it 😄 The hood ain't looking so bad. I bet you could probably get most of the dirt out by wiping it with some wet cloth. My main concern wold probably be the choice of cleaner, to make sure that you do not take the paint right off as well. Otherwise, this is a truck - a working vehicle - it gets dirty. And you can tell people that this is some authentic 1930s dirt... How about that? 😉

Quick question for the points experts: I am trying to adjust my points, but the lowest I can get is ~40 degrees dwell. The adjustment screw bottoms out (widest gap) but the dwell would not go any lower. Reducing the gap, does bring the dwell higher, as expected. Does this mean that my rubbing block is too short? I have two sets of relatively fresh-looking modern points. It looks like the PO replaced one slightly used set with another one just like it 🙄 The rubbing block on the older production points appears to be way taller. But the arm angle could also be different, etc. I know that 40 degrees is just about right, but the book says 38, and I specifically got the dwell meter, so here we are... 🤣 Also, by chance, does anyone know what the "points" setting on the "tach/dwell/points" old analog sears meter does? It has only 2 readings in this mode - good and bad. What is it supposed to test? How does it know that the points are "bad"? Thanks!

Those are the best kind of troubles when you have no idea what you did/did not to fix the issue 😅 For reference, I just checked my own temps today: ambient ~ 90, engine while moving - 180, stopped engine after being parked for ~ 10 minutes - 200. These are very good temps, despite the hot weather, I think.

Are you sure it is leaking from the rubber filler junction? Could be also the fuel level sender gasket, etc. As previously mentioned, you should be able to replace the rubber without dropping the tank. Even if you are unable to remove the filler pipe, I do not believe that this it a butt connection. There should be a couple of inches of space in between the two pipes so the new hose can probably be squeezed in.