Ivan_B

Dave, I am afraid that the hole for TDC is way too small. The plug itself is 3/8, while underneath there is just a pinhole

Good idea, Tod, I tried that but was not successful thus far. I also loaned a borescope from the zone, but it is a bit too large to get into the cylinder and you cannot see anything with that little mirror adapter. I've got the cylinder to TDC, fishing in there with a small magnet but am not pulling anything out. I also undone the exhaust pipe below the manifold and was able to get up to the valve with the scope - nothing... Tried a vacuum cleaner, at various places, too. I am pretty sure that the intake was closed when this happened, the exhaust was open. So it's got to be in the exhaust... I'll just take the manifolds off, tomorrow, and check some more. It is better than removing the head, at this point 🥲

Didn't try using sealant on the gasket, yet?

Well, I admin - I've done some pretty unintelligent garage stuff, before, but today was probably the absolute bottom record. That likely even beats catching the oil filter on fire... I needed to turn the engine by hand, so I took out the plugs. Then I decided to use the starter (to check for oil pressure) so I disconnected the - wire from the ignition coil and (dropped the little split washer right into the #6 cylinder... Oooops... Cannot get it out because I don't see it. Chances are, it went straight into an open exhaust or intake valve 🙄

That's reasonable, it will be interesting how much you would charge for your own time and effort 😋

Okay, they must've changed it, thanks. Sorry for hijacking the thread. Now, let's find-out why Mark's carburetor is wetting itself 🥲 I am thinking that even if the alloy carb body became porous, somehow, (which is preposterous, in y opinion) the gas is still not expected to accumulate and puddle "upstream". The gravity does not quite work this way. A sponge drips from the bottom, it does not leak from the top. So I am thinking that there has to be a simpler explanation for the observed phenomena.

Next time you paint outer panels, try several thin coats (diluted to milk-like viscosity), then sanding and polishing. No one will know you painted it yourself with a brush 😉

That is correct, but the position of the distributor got me confused. Here are a couple of the old factory production images of the 201 engine I made, for reference.

Did not try that... The "gas test" was only performed because I spilled it while filling-up 😂

That's true. However, I've never used POR before. As for the Rustoleum products, specifically mentioned by TS, the best result I had was with their marine paint (applied with a brush). It is UV-resistant (for exterior panels) sands and polishes well, and does not come right off when you spill gas on it 😉

Looked it up, what I was describing appears to be the good-old lacquer paint application technique. The fact that many technologies are not used anymore, is heavily related to the production efficiency (cheaper) of the process. Not necessarily something one wants to aspire to

Isn't the proper painting technique, actually, requires thinner paint layer? I was under impression that for general wear parts thin coat is the best (less prone to chipping, etc.) and when you need thicker finish (like on automotive body panels) you apply multiple thin coats, drying and sanding them in between 🤔

Easier to see rust, later on? 😂😉

Thanks. Are you sure that's OEM, though? The reason I ask is because your distributor is upside-down (or did they change the setup on later models? 🤨) Have you had a chance to investigate the fuel leak any further? What if you put a screw with Teflon tape into that corner hole, is the gas still accumulating over there?

Look for the serial number, around the block, that should give you the necessary info. This looks like a Polyspherical Head V8.

I was under impression that the carb was leaking from the gasket and Mark removed the top to investigate further 🤔

That's great news! No need to PM, you can just post them here, I am sure everyone would appreciate these, for reference 😀

I usually fix these with sealant-dressed gasket If the fuel is actually going "upstream" I am thinking that there might be heat and/or pressure (the line between pump and carb) involved 🤔 In any event, more information from the TS will probably be useful, at this point.

I do not believe that Meniscus would be high-enough to overflow over the edge like this, with the proper float level 🤔

I think the debate about cost, etc, goes on because many people are not DIY-inclined. They are interested in a "kit", that can be just installed without further consideration, and are willing to pay for it. Similar to taxes: for most, it's just standard deduction and you can do it yourself, with minimal research, for free. Yet, it is "easier" for many people to pay someone else to do it for them.

I suspect that engine noises are best troubleshot from under the hood/underneath the car. Have someone step on the gas and listen 😉

Is it doing this when the engine is cold, as well?

Well, could be. If I got the pump a tooth off, I'll be ~36 degrees out of timing. Once I am done with the seal, etc. tomorrow, I'll just verify timing at TDC before running the engine

I saw that, but figured that it was for when you take everything apart, etc. I just carefully took it out (with the engine at whatever position) and marked the shaft, so that I inserted it back exactly the same way it was. Should be good to go, right? 🤨

He sand blasted it, so it's clean as new, at this point. The panel adhesive is interesting. I looked-up the 3M stuff, never heard of it before. On one hand, the bond is not as strong as mechanical but, on the other hand, you have a larger contact area, so it sounds promising. I wonder how well it keeps its properties after several years of vibration, weather, and freezing cycles 🤔 Weren't the German engineers experimenting with gluing planes in the early last century? It did not go well at that time, but maybe the technology has finally caught-up?