Ivan_B

Do you have a wiring diagram for your truck? I would start there. Also, what turn signal switch are you using? It should have specific wiring instructions (which might not apply to your car). 12v flasher will likely not work in a 6v system, so you might have to order another one.

What kind of illustrations are you referring to? There were different types of bumper guards available. Also, have you attempted to look-up your original car's registration? Maybe it is still around somewhere Unless, of course, you were the one who totaled it 🤣

Are these Ford-made MBs? I would sure like to get one, fresh from the truck 🥲

This was not the question, but your float needle is probably blocked by some trash. You do not even need to take the carb apart to check that, just unscrew the seat from the side. Could be a 1 minute fix, literally

Alternatively, since you are taking the engine out, you can try to undo the mounts and tilt it with the lift so that the transmission drops down, a bit, allowing more access from underneath. Make sure that you do not hurt yourself working with heavy equipment, though. Also, if you take the nose apart, pulling the engine and transmission together is soo much more convenient... That's what they did at the assembly line 😉

Is your new wheel sitting on the center of the hub/axle or is there some space in there? 🤔 Pretty sure the OEM wheel is hub-centric. There is also normally 5 rivets holding the drum to the hub. Can we, maybe, see a picture of your drum without the wheel?

Is the engine turning okay? I suspect that another issue could be a seized engine 🙄

I was under impression that dielectric grease and cam lobe/points lube are different types of grease And dialectic is something completely different 😅 I do have the grease cup and it is packed with bearing grease and is being used according to specs, thanks.

Was the car originally red, or are you planning to re-paint it red? 😉

I suspect that most shops would not want to touch it. First of all, this is not something they are familiar with (extra time, labor, not profit-efficient). And second, if they brake it, they do not want to be responsible Do you have some corrosion issues above the rear glass? You should probably fix those before installing the glass. The metal lip underneath the moldings is often rusted.

Thanks for the reply. I already ordered some NOS points to see if I can get the correct dwell with them. This is funny, I just watched the same video, yesterday, and also discovered that this is a simple resistance reading...

I had to look it up... Never seen it 😄 The hood ain't looking so bad. I bet you could probably get most of the dirt out by wiping it with some wet cloth. My main concern wold probably be the choice of cleaner, to make sure that you do not take the paint right off as well. Otherwise, this is a truck - a working vehicle - it gets dirty. And you can tell people that this is some authentic 1930s dirt... How about that? 😉

Quick question for the points experts: I am trying to adjust my points, but the lowest I can get is ~40 degrees dwell. The adjustment screw bottoms out (widest gap) but the dwell would not go any lower. Reducing the gap, does bring the dwell higher, as expected. Does this mean that my rubbing block is too short? I have two sets of relatively fresh-looking modern points. It looks like the PO replaced one slightly used set with another one just like it 🙄 The rubbing block on the older production points appears to be way taller. But the arm angle could also be different, etc. I know that 40 degrees is just about right, but the book says 38, and I specifically got the dwell meter, so here we are... 🤣 Also, by chance, does anyone know what the "points" setting on the "tach/dwell/points" old analog sears meter does? It has only 2 readings in this mode - good and bad. What is it supposed to test? How does it know that the points are "bad"? Thanks!

Those are the best kind of troubles when you have no idea what you did/did not to fix the issue 😅 For reference, I just checked my own temps today: ambient ~ 90, engine while moving - 180, stopped engine after being parked for ~ 10 minutes - 200. These are very good temps, despite the hot weather, I think.

Are you sure it is leaking from the rubber filler junction? Could be also the fuel level sender gasket, etc. As previously mentioned, you should be able to replace the rubber without dropping the tank. Even if you are unable to remove the filler pipe, I do not believe that this it a butt connection. There should be a couple of inches of space in between the two pipes so the new hose can probably be squeezed in.

Yes, this is bypass-type, so let's make sure that your stat is working as intended - rad loop filly open = bypass closed. And, based upon the look of that cap, you are also using a pressurized system, so yes, letting some air from under the cap could be useful if you've recently drained the coolant Also, please provide more info, such as: what's the ambient temp, what is the gauge showing, fully warmed-up, while in motion; what is it showing while you stop and idle for a minute or two.

Okay, on the contrary, I was thinking about non-pressurized system with bypass, because this is what I have 😅 We should probably get more info from Silvio, for a more efficient troubleshooting. The reason I asked about these, is that a non-pressurized system is obviously always open to the air, and is using an extra large radiator top as its expansion tank. Also, Chrysler Master Tech specifically does not recommend running a bypass system without the stat because when the stat is fully open, the bypass must be closed. If there is no stat, both the radiator loop and bypass will be open, with part of the rad flow naturally diverting thorough the bypass instead, which will inhibit proper cooling The same could be the case if an incorrect stat is installed in the bypass system. That is technically correct, but could very likely be running a bit on the hot side depending upon the ambient temperature and the engine operating conditions.

Are we talking about the cooling system with or without bypass, here? Isn't the overflow line on top of the radiator always open to the outside anyway, or is 1950 using a pressurized system?

It sounds like the motor was rebuilt\repaired, so I assume that mostly everything is working according to specs. The correct stat for our engines looks like the 96F at the bottom right corner, on the provided illustration, like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/375294080332. When the engine is cold, the top radiator outlet is closed and the side bypass is open. When it warms up, the side gets closed and the top is open. Make sure that this is what's happening. I looked at your stat and cannot really determine whether or not this is actually what's happening. Running without the stat is not a good idea either, because you will have the bypass open at all times (unless you physically plug it). If I recall correctly, my 201 manual specifies that the temp can get up to 212, since the system is not pressurized and was originally designed for plain water. And, indeed, it used to get this high when I had the wrong thermostat in there. Now, I am running ~180 when the weather is good, and ~190 when it gets a bit hot. You might want to do a test-run early in the morning (when it's a bit cooler) to see what kind of stable temperature you are getting with the engine fully warmed up and the car moving. Later: Here is the stat I am actually using, right now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/315233827198 Seems to be even cheaper than when I bought it. I should probably get a spare 🤔

Is removing the hood from the car going to help, much, if you are not planning on taking the chrome trim off? How about you just put some good film underneath and around the hood, to keep the flow away from the car, and then use some de-greaser (another appropriate cleaner) and a brush to get the dirt out?

First of all, it is ok for the temp to climb up when you idle at the stop light or shut the car off. Second of all, it is damn hot in Florida right know 😅 so running a bit on the high side is to be expected. Third - are you sure that you are actually overheating? Did you measure the engine/coolant temp with the thermometer, or are you just going by the dash? And lastly - what kind of thermostat did you use? I had the wrong type installed in my car by the PO. When the thermostat was opening, it was actually closing the radiator loop.

I am a bit confused, so you cannot get the lug nut off and debating purchasing impact wrenches? I assume that lubricating it did not work? How about a torch and a large breaker bar? If nothing else helps and the nut is rusted on and would not move, you might just cut and chisel it off.

You probably do not have it, then. The old-fashioned starter button is located on the right-hand side above the gas pedal. It can be used to engage the starter, even without the key.

Small note: I believe that the transmission and bell-housing (or bell-housing and the block) and paired parts. Unless you have access to the machine shop, etc., you should aim to keep the matching OEM combination, otherwise the gear box and the engine might not sit straight.

An illustration would be helpful If the rubber is old, you might have to destroy them, if they need to be removed.