Ivan_B

I've heard about pre/forechamber gasoline engines, in the past Maybe that's what these sparks were originally for? The "problem" with mass engineering solutions is that it tends to settle with the most effective/cheap etc. option. So the fact tat something works well, at some point, does not necessary makes it good in the long run if we take into account all the other considerations.

Front bumper is messed-up. Pedals look like they've been shot with a bb gun. And why are there different women pictured next to the truck (and at least one with kids)? For how long did the guy keep it to move through several GF's and a wife? Is that an ownership record statement? 🤣

A new is always new. I was also thinking about buying a spare new engine for one of my other cars (and will probably do so, maybe next year, if I can still find one available) 😀

Given the known history if this car, thus far, I think we are going the later way.

Are you draining the carbs before storage? 😀

View Advert Misc. items for 40 Ply I am looking for the following things for my 1940 Plymouth 2-door sedan: 1) Stainless door trim molding (this has a unique profile for 1940) 2) Keys, both ignition and trunk; these are supposedly 365CA, maybe someone has the same-looking pattern. 3) Vent window handle button. 4) Battery cover thumb screw (holds the cover cap to the battery cover, under the seat, not pictured). 5) Bakelite cone spark plug rain shields. 6) OEM Wheel bolts L+R with a start. Thank you. Advertiser Ivan_B Date 09/03/2024 Price $100 Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

Use graphite or copper next time 😉

Should not affect the top running temperature, assuming that the engine has a chance to warm-up

Cheap laser thermometers are also not very accurate. I was trying to measure the carburetor/intake temp to see whether or not my phenolic spacer makes a difference, and I was getting all kinds of crazy readings just a couple of inches apart.

What was the ambient? Also, do you have your heater installed and turned on? Could be that the gauge is not very accurate. If I saw 205, I would either stop driving it in hot weather or have the coolant temp checked with an accurate thermometer. Based upon the description, it could be that you are not getting enough air flow at slow speeds.

I am not an electronics wizard, but I usually check the batty voltage with the ignition off, and then do the same with the engine running, bumping the idle up, if necessary. Do you see the positive difference? That usually indicates that everything is good

I do not believe that this would actually be the case. Our cars feel heavy, etc., but they are not really that heavy if you compare the actual weight of many modern full-size sedans with the older versions. In addition, despite using lighter sheet-metal, the newer-style structures (especially the main cage/skeleton) of modern cars is likely stronger. There is a YouTube test crash of an old and new car, everyone's seen. Yes, I know that the condition of the old car is questionable and they probably chose an "X" frame on purpose, there. But still, the old boats are not actually as hard as they feel Moreover, I think that no one will argue that seat belts make the car safer in almost (99.9%) any crash. In fact, they used seat belts in the 40s crash test and stunt vehicles too. Whether or not any particular person needs them installed in their classic is another question. I do not have mine installed, right now, and just drive 45, as an excuse 😋

Sorry, Dave. A Millennial here 😅 Plymouthy is correct, TS - stands for topic starter, this is similar to OP (original poster). I'll make sure to watch my vulgar internet jargon... As for the vacuum advance - I do not remember what I had, down south, I just dialed it all the way up, and then took it down an inch, to be safe

The TS is from Florida, we use the same US scale in Florida 😅 I suspect that either the gauge is not working properly, or it has multiple units on it, and something was confused with something else.

Thank you very much for the info! 😀

Isn't that way too high? 😮 In defense of the OEM carbs, yours appears a bit weathered. Although, if the new one comes with a bowl drain, that's definitely a plus

That's the company name 😁

Sorry for the off-topic, but doesn't any of your fellas have grand kids to recruit for your automotive maintenance needs? 😅 My grandpa used to do this, when he became a bit outdated to climb underneath the car, but was still occasionally driving. Sounds rather extreme. I would just attempt to clean them off with carb cleaner

I've read general bad reviews about Chinese retro carbs but did not try them in person. Also, you can always use the good-old OEM + rebuilt kit. Someone in the States can buy one for you and ship it over.

Yep, the other side is properly trimmed exactly to the door size, and it is the correct profile (the right one on the image) as is the rest of the car. My passenger door certainly has something funny about it. It does not line-up with the B-pillar edge very well either (bulging at the center, or the pillar is recessed). I took the interior out and noticed some welder-cut metal in there. At the same time, i could not identify any obvious damage/body work to the door/pillar skin. Since they were changing the bodies every year back then, and my car was produced in November of 1940, maybe the factory was just using what ever doors/panels they had, and did some manual adjustments to them? 🤨

I bought a more expensive set, with the retro style aviation buckles... Seems to be the normal quality, did not notice anything unusual about them, and they certainly look better than any OEM belts from more recent cars. Do not recall the company name (it was a few years back) and I never got a chance to install them either 😋

Hello Fellas. I've noticed that my 40 2-door sedan passenger door has an incorrect trim installed. It is not the proper profile and about 1/2 inch too short. Does anyone know what this came off? Maybe a 39 or a 41? I need to get rid of it and find the proper one for the 1940. Also, has anyone attempted to install the driver's trim to the passenger's side? Are they the same (or "the same" with a little adjustment)? Sorry, I do not have the parts book

There are a couple of companies (including seat belts plus) who offer the classic car belt kits in various shapes and colors

Yes, I was mainly concerned about the are underneath the floor reinforcements, as well as inside the doors, and all the door/fender seams. Not sure if the POR15 will take care of that. I would personally use a liquid rustproofing, for something like this, but since you are re-painting the surface, this is obviously not an option.

Unless you are a chemist, you can probably just tell apart the castor\glycol\silicone-based fluids.