Ivan_B

I am conservative, so I like to keep things as original as possible My old pump with a grease fitting is still working, I was just looking for a repair kit for when it goes out. I suppose that it is possible to retrofit the old casing with some generic new parts from modern pumps, as well, but this is too much work if the original kits are still available. That's what I have going on under the hood, right now. The old belt makes a squeaking noise, though... I have to put a new one, I bought, one of these days... The only down side of having a loose belt is that you cannot turn the engine by the fan 😅

Searched the forum but did not find an applicable topic for this. What's the longest drive you've ever done? I just had an occasion to drive from California to Florida a couple of weeks ago (~2.5k miles). Took me 3 days (technically, 2 days and one night of the same second day 🤪). It was a great adventure and I sure am never doing it again. Anyone's done the traveling salesman route across the 48 states, yet? 😅

That was a legitimate question, no pun intended. I usually drain the carbs for winter storage (at least the ones that have a drain), so that no sludge forms inside. Works well when you come back to start the car next year 😉

Some people like to wrench, some - just drive ancient cars without much mechanical engagement 😅 You should've totally painted it the silver block color and used a flat head screw with a non-Phillips groove 😉

Just noticed a plate on eBay as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/166251971141

Does anyone know if they are interchangeable? I know that the pumps are. However, not sure about the kit (because I would like to keep my original pump). The kits for 201 are expensive and few in between, while the 218 for Dodge trucks appear to be available 🤔 Here are a couple of examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275658478581 https://www.ebay.com/itm/372961827210 Also, the ones for the inline 8 Chrysler look similar 😁 https://www.ebay.com/itm/196535198772

Who ever buys these, you owe me one passenger's bolt 😉

I assume that these are from your P8? These should be identical to my P10 Moreover, the front and back should be also the same except for the hub part, correct? Let's go with the rusty one. Here is a diagram of everything we need (I think). The drum profile is shown with the hub removed (because we are looking to replace just the drum part. And here is the description: 1. hub center hole size 2. bolt hole size (drum part, not the hub) 3. thickness of the drum/hub mating surface (drum part, without the hub) 4. distance between the back of the drum/hub mating surface and the inner edge of the working surface of the drum ( 5. distance between the inner working surface of the drum and the outer ring at the edge 6. distance between the edge of the drum and the outer ring 7. width of the working surface (I believe it is ~2") 8. thickness of the drum at the edge Does the above make sense? I think that these should allow us to determine what modern drum will fit the stock hub with the least amount of modifications. Thank you, I did a forum search and found the only one note about this from 41/53dodges He wrote about using a sleeve for the hub, (to fit the center hole, I assume) so I am not sure how simple it was to do 🤔

Fluid drive does not count For the regular manual transmissions, I do not believe that this is a proper driving technique. Especially if you keep the clutch engaged slightly to hold the vehicle etc. (This is also true for at least the automatic transmissions, where it specifically states in the operator's manual not to hold the car up the hill using the gas pedal).

That's understandable. However, if we spent some time and find an alternative "relatively working" solution, now, that will be much appreciated by many folks in the future. Do you still have your old drum to take some measurements of?

I am also doing this with the stock drain. A small fuel/air line hose, with one layer of electrical tape over it, fits right into that drain hole. You just need to hold the hose in place while opening the drain.

Stuck bolts, warped head, burnt valves, difficult to clean deposits in the chamber. Sounds about right? Flatheads are rather very simple to work with, some people even carry a gasket with them as a spare part. later: oh yes, clogged coolant drain at the bottom of the block 😅

Sorry for the off-topic, but are you guys actually sitting in gear at the stop lights? 🤨 I am using neutral all the time while driving.

Maybe. Did you look at the plugs, already? I just did a quick google search for "deceleration popping" to refresh my knowledge, and there appears to be a couple of potential causes for this.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1567846437481136 I was looking at those myself, but I don't think they'll fit my 40 Ply, as is.

Release bearing probably won't be too happy about this 🤣

If I am not mistaken, when you install a more free-flowing (and noisy) muffler, it leans out the engine due to increased exhaust flow, so you need to adjust the carb accordingly Also, make sure that your choke is fully open. I was under impression that the idle circuit is always participating in the mixture flow (to a greater extent with the closed throttle, true).

I've been looking into the 10 inch drums, for a couple of days now. If I understand the objective correctly, at a minimum, we need to find a 10 inch drum with a 5x4-1/2 bolt pattern, which is deep-enough (2 + inches of working surface). While the rest (center hub hole and the total depth) can be adjusted at a place with a large lathe. Is that right? Here are a couple of quick options I found: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=667749&cc=1132164&pt=1744&jsn=991 1973 Maverick, $40 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6902340&cc=1372676&pt=1744&jsn=1130 2001 Ranger, $37 The first one has a smaller center hole and bolt holes, than the second one. Does anyone have a 10 inch OEM drum to play around with, to approximate how these will fit? All of my are currently installed on the car, but I would sure like to procure some spare drums for future use

I see. Well, at this point, I am probably interested in at least getting something from the 40s-50s. Since I cannot find the OEM, and do not even know what the OEM was 🤣 Thus far, the TS 6006 appears to be more vintage than the GE, what ever the number is, available for sale.

Like the one posted by Dodgeb4ya 7 posts up? Thus far, Tung Sol 6006 seem to be the only "reasonably vintage" replacements, readily available 🤔

Looks good, do you have more pics, for reference, and the part number for the new seal?

That looks like the hydraulic transmission (fluid drive is something else):

Is anyone able to enlighten me about what were the OEM lights on the 1940 cars (make and model)? It looks like my Ply has two different later-style GE lights. The images in the user's manual are too small and it does not list the manufacturer I assume that using the separate bulb/reflector type lights from 38-39 should also work?

+1 just make one up, do not even have to cut the corners, it can just be a square metal piece with a gasket and 2 holes. Or, if you want to keep things looking original, just take the insides of the old pump out and use it to bypass your fuel line.

Am I seeing this correctly - did you cut the seal cap to accommodate a modern seal? 🤔