Ivan_B

The owners manual should have the controls diagram, indicating what each button/lever does (assuming that we are talking about the OEM switch, and not the aftermarket accessory). What else can you possibly operate with the turn-signal lever? Hazardous lights\high beams\windshield washer? The first option was not available, back then, so if you have a separate high beam switch on the floor and a windshield washer control elsewhere, you have your answer You can also find that switch in the wiring diagram, in the shop manual, to see what exactly it does.

I could not find the owner's manual for this one online (you should probably get one, btw). But it does not look like the factory lever is supposed to do anything more than switch up or down. So, I suspect that you should not attempt to push or pull on it 😅

Is this what Racerstev was looking at, recently?

I admit, this is not the worst video I saw, but it is likely the most disappointing in terms of expectations and the actual content. The worst ones are probably those where some younger adults find an older car, in obviously below-average condition, and do a test drive/review, complaining about how bad the car is (mostly because of its poor condition, or their lack of mechanical knowledge or driving skills) and how horrible the society must've been, back in the days, when people had to drive these kind of cars... And how, for some unexpected reason, they are personally so much better than this car, and it's not even worse their time (yet they are doing a review video) 🙄 There are so much wrong here, I usually just skip these as this is too much pain to watch 😅 Too bad I am not a psychologist, otherwise I would definitely study the phenomenon of denigrating the past to boost one's sense of false confidence.

Good point 🤣

Did you manage to get the distribution tube out? If you have the engine removed, etc., I would probably take it to a shop to have it properly hot soaked. Also, was your block drain still working, with all that debris behind the plugs? My block drained just fine, but I never took the plugs out 🤔

You should be good with about any B&B kit of eBay, etc. I used this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/145556329422 It says 1939-60, but if you have the B&B on your 201, this is it

That's a good-looking picture. A couple of bystanders wearing appropriate clothing, and this could pass for vintage Sometimes I like to pause modern movies about old times and browse at all the things they captured at the background that are not period-correct 🤣

Sometimes I browse the Tube for mopar-related videos, to see what people are doing and maybe learn something new. For some reason, this is not going so well, lately. Today, I stumbled upon an adult person from Canada doing upgrades to a 1940 P10 chassis. And what do you know, 4 minutes into the video he is calling wheel bolts studs (???) and is stating that while the right hand side "studs" came right out, he was unable to get the "studs" on the left side out, not even with an extra long breaker bar, so he had to take the hub off... This person is doing paid work wrenching on classic cars... How's this even possible? 🙄 If some of you cannot do your own maintenance, be careful whom you let to work on your cars. Just saying.

TS mentioned that he tried disconnecting the linkage, so it must be the carb itself. Do you have a pedal hinge on 48? I just have 2 "balls" that the rubber pedal is pivoted to.

Retard clockwise.

I did, yesterday - no vacuum. The cloth diaphragm has multiple large holes on the inside, oh well... 🙄 I adjusted the idle timing to 19in Hg, the car runs great, but am still curious about how it would work with the advance unit in place and working. Already ordered a NOS replacement. Not sure how long it will last, though.

I admire your self-criticism 😅 Let us know how you fix the issue.

Hold on. If the throttle is definitely closing when not running, but you can see that it is physically sticking a bit open when running, try lubricating the shaft bushings first

I do not think that you need a different spring, etc. What's different when the car is running? We have some vacuum, etc., but that should probably only help to close the throttle, if anything 🤔 I assume that your choke is always all the way open? Do you have the same issue running without air filter? Could this be vibration-related? I suspect you've already tried some WD40 at the throttle shaft holes/bushings?

Are you able to mark the 100% closed throttle lever position with a pencil, or something like that, to see what happens when you have to push it to get the idle back to normal? This is one issue if it is physically sticking open, and another one if the throttle is actually closing but something else is keeping the idle up, until you touch it. I don't see how the running versus not running engine will cause the throttle to get physically stuck, assuming the same temp. etc. 🙄 Also, if you had the carb apart, did you remove the throttle from the shaft? I, once, had it not installed back very precisely, causing improper closing. Moreover, I once saw a DIY accelerator pump repair, inside a carb, which caused the throttle not to close down 100%, but it was like this all the time, not intermittent.

Is the throttle physically sticking when the car is running (versus not running) or is the idle simply not returning back to normal, at times? 🤔

Posted September 4, 2009

Even with a nut and washer? 🤔

The cheapest way to go is a simple gravity bleed (useful where the fluid tank is above the cylinders). Second cheapest is a small catch bottle and pumping the pedal. Then there are two ways to go: supply pressure to the master, or pull vacuum at the slaves. I've used both, including the previously not-recommended hand pump. Works alright for me

Okay, sorry I am not very familiar with the shifter selector adjustment. Let's wait for someone with more knowledge to reply. I assume that you've already gone through the complete adjustment procedure outlined in the manual?

So the issue is resolved, now? Also, it was Sam who shared the picture, so he is the one who resolved the issue (if this was, indeed, the problem).

Ok, then something is probably wrong with the lever adjustment. I do not get what would make a difference shifting in the air, versus on the ground. Is the linkage routed properly and not being pushed/pulled when you lower the car? I assume that when you shift on the ground, the car is under load? You might want to check whether or not the lever at the box actually moves all the way it supposed to, when shifting from the cabin, versus when shifting by hand

Hmm, so the clutch was not disengaging? It is probably worn way out, if the original rod is no longer long enough. Or something was assembled incorrectly. Before you start playing with the gear selector rod adjustment, are you able to shift the gears pulling the levers by hand?

And that would've bee the right way to do this. Maybe next time 😉 I finally managed to put everything back together. The oil pan was soaked in simple green, for a couple of days, then rinsed with carb cleaner and wiped clean. The old paint completely came off, so I had to brush-on some protective coating. It took me additional 2 days to clean the oil pickup. Apparently, it was full of the same goo as the pan (douh), so I had it soaking in gas, then rinsed with water, and eventually used waterpik to clean the inside mesh. Mounting the oil pan back-up is probably much more easy when the engine is out of the car, I tell you what... 😅 And who ever decided to make the holes for the 4 corner pan bolts to go straight inside the engine - not cool... 🙄 What a mess this whole thing turned out to be 🥲