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D35 Torpedo

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Everything posted by D35 Torpedo

  1. Has anyone ordered from DCM?
  2. Another thing to note, i always had an issue with the throwout bearings rubbing while the pedal wasnt depressed. Does anyone have a digram of how the return spring is oriented? I think im missing it.
  3. I'm looking on AB and his site sucks...there is virtually no descriptions and no kits. Id have to piece it together.
  4. It is a Canadian car...might be different...here is a pic of the other clutch disk. Not sure what spring steel support you're talking about.
  5. I have a spare clutch that came off another engine (Both engines are 25") and it's also nine and a quarter. Both cars did not have a fluid drive. The flywheel does have another set of holes, presumeably for a 10" clutch. So, I'm thinking I can upgrade it. Andy B stuff is hit and miss. I'm guessing Borg & Beck is a factory part, or old aftermarket?
  6. Let me add, I'm not seeing much of a pilot bushing if any. I remember hearing stuff flying around in the bell housing so this explains it. The one spring was lodged in the pressure plate. Also, there is no oil on the back of the flywheel.
  7. Near the end of last season, the car developed an oil leak. It got so bad, when I stopped with the engine running, it would leave a fair sized puddle in no time. So before I put it on the road this summer, I wanted to fix the issues. I pulled the trans, clutch and flywheel today and found some carnage. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do. Nothings open today, so I cant call around. The good news is, it doesn't look like the rear main. Opinions and solutions are welcome.
  8. I just buy mine from Napa.
  9. You always prime an engine.....pull the dist and turn the pump with a drill. Put dist back in and crank it till the gauge moves. Make sure that the distributor is actually indexing with the pump.
  10. Im using sychromesh. Its a gl3
  11. All the things you circled have there names in the circle....the horn relay controls the horn..the carburetor controls fuel, and the turn signal breaker controls the turn signals.
  12. No I didnt. But i will assume half as fast. Regardless, it's fast enough.
  13. I rigged up a modern 12v window motor for my wipers. It works fine on 6v. I will be refining it this spring and adding a park feature. It cost 15 bucks.
  14. Mine is fully intact, but completely out to lunch beyond adjustment. It seemed trustworthy in the winter, but during the summer it would pin out easy. No idea what's going on with it. But ive confirmed its defective. So i guess, just because it's intact doesn't mean it's any good.
  15. My 50 only has the clock springs. It stays up most of the way.
  16. Looks like a pcv
  17. Crack lines and bleed at various points heading to the front and rear. Maybe the soft lines have collapsed.
  18. That's normal due to the offset of the steering box and dash center. A lot of cars are like that. My old chevette was so pronounced that the wheel was an odd shape to offset the column.
  19. I did all of mine. The factory stuff is far better than AB stuff. So only replace what you have to. I eyeballed everything and it's pretty good.
  20. You're over thinking it. Drain and fill. Whatever is left will be very dilute. Not sure about the fluid drive, but ive had good luck with GM synchromesh in the trans.
  21. As Dodgeb4ya said, large flap on the inside, small out. I roped my rear in from the outside, with a person inside, pushing the window out. Lots of lube, glass cleaner or soap.
  22. My 50 dodge has the cast hinge. You might be better off making one. I've seen one other broken off the same.
  23. That's a great looking clock
  24. I've always called them frost plugs. Other names are core plugs, welch plugs, expansion plugs and freeze plugs. Depending on what name you search, you get a different purpose. I've always considered them to be a way of saving a block from freezing. I've seen it many times...but you guys are also correct about the sand thing. Id say they do both.
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