D35 Torpedo

Pretty much

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The best stuff I've used is Cunifer. Copper nickle iron. It works nicely and has a nice glow. Also, very corrosion resistant.

Stainless is the better material, Hotrodders love it, You can buy complete stainless kits, It doesn't rust, it looks good, plenty of reasons.

Make your own, unless it's stainless, that stuff is a monster to work with and requires expensive tooling.

When I had mine, I did note there construction. Basically a bunch of 1/4" bars bent to a specific form and then welded together. Theres a tab where it slots into the wheel well to affix it. Each bar needs to be templated as well as the other features. The skeleton defines the shape.

I did.

Thanks, they are similar, but different. A different part number as well. The 4 door is furnished on both sides, because you see it when you open the back door. It's also small cuz you have to step by it. The 2 door one is bigger and only furnished on one side. There is no door there...so it can be optomized for the space. Regarding your 2 door arm rests. Id be willing to pay shipping for it to be sent to me, then ill ship it back. It would need to be 49 or 50. I think that's a p17? And p19. And, im not even totally sure the 49 is the same.

Oh ya i posted them in my other post 1104546 1104547. I think they are 49-50 only.

That's an interesting idea. But I would still need something to template, and it's to techie for me. I can't believe there is noone on this forum who can help with a part I can template.

Hopefully this post skirts the rules...i have been unsuccessful finding arm rests. My last hope is that someone can send me one for templating and I can ship it back. A friend suggested making them out of wood. But the shape is fairly complex and I'm not a good woodworker. If anyone has any other suggestions, my ears are open. Attached is a pic i found online. Thanks, Andrew

I found it. Who actually looks at this?

How do i find this section?

P19 d35 rear arm rests for 2 door sedan.

I got burned. I left the rear arm rests for my 50 fastback at work with the intention of reupholstering them. Well my boss and his lacky went through the upholstery room and threw a ton of stuff away...including my arm rests. I'm pretty chapped...I feel like rage-quitting. I can only imagine how hard it will be to replace them. If anyone knows where I can buy some, please let me know. Thanks.

I sure dig your 48 Royal. Good luck with the riser. I blocked mine off.

You could cut up coveyor belt to get the job done and save money.

Yea, I would normally, but this is a used clutch. The pressure plate still had fresh machining marks and the flywheel wasnt full of hot spots. The old clutch wasn't very old at all.

Update. I had a new oil pressure gauge line made up to replace the sacked out original. I also fixed the coolant leak. While i was in there i replaced the thermostat, the original was stuck open. I then put the flywheel on and ran it till she got plenty hot. Didn't leak a drop! So, in the interest of cost and time, I threw my spare, used clutch on, including a good pilot bearing. Put the trans and D-shaft in, fixed an exhaust hanger and on the ground it goes. Thanks to those who gave me advice.

I fired my 6v car up yesterday after sitting for months. I had to crank it for a while before fuel got to the carb. It was a little slower than normal, but she didnt quit, and it started up just fine. My system is all oversized and fairly new. I put 6k miles on it last year trouble free. I ran 10g for the headlights with a 6g common ground cable running to the junction block up front. That serves as a ground for everything up front. 40/50 watt headlights are plenty bright. I did it all pretty cheap, mainly because I had a large stock of wire that I aquired years ago and a good gen/VR. If i was starting with nothing, id consider 12v, but im a purist and like to keep things as they were. Conversions are always a spicy topic, end of the day, the only one you need to impress is yourself.

I have a parts book. Just been to busy to go through it. I think the spring ive seen in other posts doesnt exist on my model. I did find the clutch fork pivot ball retainer spring was bent and loose on the rivets. So maybe the return spring wasnt able to properly pull the bearing back. The engine only has one season on it as far as i know, so about 6k miles. I'm not keen on cracking into the rear main seal. I think ill do as Dave suggested and run it with only the flywheel and just observe.

Nope. Ill make one!

Transmission casting seems to be busted out in that bind hole.

Thanks Dave! I think I might be dealing with a few leaks. One from the trans and the other from the oil pressure gauge flex hose. To top it off, the block heater I purchased last winter is leaking from the electrical connector...junk! Edit sorry for the upsidedown pics

Can you explain your reasoning???