D35 Torpedo
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Everything posted by D35 Torpedo
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I had the same problem and it was the brushes hanging up. Filed them a bit and it's perfect now.
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Relays are not necessary and will just look ugly... but if you must...use the factory feed to switch the relays. Putting them close to the battery makes the most sense. I'm running 40/50 watt 6volt headlights with 12 and 10 gauge wire straight from the headlight switch. The factory headlight connectors can be desoldered and reused.
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I'm running 235/70/r15s on original 1950 rims without tubes. I got steel valve stems and modified them to seal the big oblong hole. Basically just used stainless washers, rubber sheet on the inside and ever-seal on the outside. I like the fat plooming look of the wide tire on a skinny rim. The ride is great and I can cruise at 70 mph.
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The first thing I did was replace the rubber bushing on the column shift arm. I ended up making one. Then I discovered a ton of slop in the transmission shift levers. I removed the assembly off the transmission and repaired the problem. The levers had loosened up on the shafts. They only index on two flats. The one lever is a weird shape and that probably contributed to the failure. I haven't done anything to the rods as they are not that bad.
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The test was to prove that the only difference between 10g fuseable link and 10g wire was the jacket. The link didn't fail. The regular jacket did. Doing this verified to me than the link needs to be made small enough that it fails before the main wires jacket.
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Depends on what kind of hotrod you want. Personally, I would use the original frame, strengthen it as you see fit. Then get a mustang two front end if you want IFS.
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Say you shwinged that extra bit off the end to make it even. It would still be fine (Provided the journal was equally as narrow). Tons of engines have narrow bearings. It looks like they didnt want to compromise the crank by moving the journal over to much so they offset the rod. Way she goes.
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So I did a test today. I took 10 gauge wire and spliced it to 10 gauge fuseable link, then I shorted it across a battery. In less than a second, the regular wire jack was erupting in smoke and fire. The fuseable link looked fine. If only all wire was jacketed in the same stuff. I'm glad this topic came up. This was something I needed to know!
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Those offset rods don't look like much of an issue.
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I was thinking there was something about the wire that made it melt long before the copper.
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But how is a 10g wire suppose to take 80 amps. No wonder they pop first. The only thing that makes it fuseable is the jacket.
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Man...I am an electrician lol. I didn't know about the 4 gauge less thing. Think I need to do some short circuit tests.
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Oh that's interesting. I guess it depends how the bearing is loaded. How is it located relative to the piston? If it isn't centered on the piston, I could see the lack of symmetry applying thrust load to the bearing.
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I love how the 25" was mostly reserved for big trucks, and then Chrysler Canada went and stuck them into little cars like mine. An overdrive would be nice, or even a small diff ratio. It currently has 3.73s.
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Tell me more about paired rods. I did retorque the head and checked it again. Maybe ill check it one more time.
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I understand that. But when the wire is the fuse, I don't know why it isn't rated as such. But as long as you don't put smaller wire after the fuseable link, you'll be ok. It literally protect the feeder wire only, and shouldn't be used to protect a device. An actual fuse should be used before the device.
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I've old found fuseable link wire up to 10 Gauge. It is rated by gauge not amps, no idea why.
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I have done a lot to tighten it up. The main reason I use second is that third gear synchro isn't as happy.
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I don't know a lot about it. It was apparently rebuilt in 2000 and was never ran. I broke it in as a percaution. The material in the oil backed up that statement. The engine is stamped D35 aswell as the car. So 25" 218 with unknown over bore. When I compression tested it, it was 125 accross the board. But I forgot to open the throttle. It has a E7T2 ball and ball.
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I went to a car show this last weekend. I met up with a bunch of others going to the same show, mostly corvettes....the show was far away so we hit the highway. Well....we were doing 80 mph down the transcanada highway for a good hour. The guys were surprised the ole girl did as well as she did. Rpm calculator says the engine was turning around 3600 at 80mph.
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But there are plenty of big blocks, with big strokes, turning big rpm. So I don't think piston speed is the limiting factor. I use to remember what speed most pistons fly apart at. Think it was something like 33 feet per second. Edit googled it. 3500 fpm or almost 60 fps. Yeehaw thats a cast piston. Quick math 4.25" stroke at 4000 rpm is travelling 2800 fpm
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Thanks for digging up all that information. You pretty much put that topic to rest. I wonder if they are an alloy or straight up aluminum. So if the pistons are not the limiting factor to rpm, it will be the rods or rod ratio. Are these engines prone to spinning rod bearings?
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Either or...I use 2nd all the time.
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I don't know what/who gave me the idea. This is why I asked for any info regarding pistons. Maybe someone else can shine more light on the topic.
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When I rebuilt my trans, I fished the T.O. bearing out and replaced it with a better unit that I regreased. Well it's starting to make a little noise. What I'm finding is that it won't fully disengage. Pedal freeplay is good. I think the return spring is pulling the shift fork off the pivot ball instead of drawing the bearing off the clutch. So the bearing never gets a breaks. Thought?
