D35 Torpedo

Old thread I know. But I can add my experience. My unit leaked out the top. I tried making seals out of hose and it still leaked. Finally, I placed an O ring around the shaft at the top, and that solved it.

I believe it looks like this. No it actually has nothing, but i think it should have deluxe emblems

Yes. It has plymouth taillights and plymouth dash. But with dodge clock delete, radio emblem and horn button. And dodge grill and emblems on the body. It is pretty neat. However, some Canadian specific parts are rare birds indeed. I am searching for the radio emblem. American Coronet stuff is not the same.

Thanks! It's actually a 1950 dodge deluxe. Canadian model. It has the 25" long engine. The red paint is pretty rough. It was resprayed decades ago and it shows.

If your windshield has metal trim, then there is a locking insert that goes inside. Pull it and the rubber will collapse. If it has no trim then it's just a rope-in. One way needs rope, the other an insert tool.

Well I was going to cross that bridge when I get to it. I think I can modify a typical 12v charger to work on 6 volt. It shouldn't be hard at all.

Ofcourse, I didn't think that one through to well. What I was thinking is that a six volt started works fine on 12 volts because the amperage is cut in half. So a 12 volt starter on six volts would be the other way. Windings are not rated for the amp draw. Same with the lighter. I just worded it wrong.

The casco lighter require that you hold it continuously until it's hot enough. (From what I can tell).They are taylored to a given volage. The heater coil is configured to draw a given amount of amps at six volts. A 12 volt lighter will draw to many amps and probably burn out prematurely. Even though they are of equal watt rating. The last one you listed is the one i have. But my knob wont work with it unless i grind it down ( cringe)

It's probably motoring off residual magnetism. If the field was shorting out there wouldnt be any magnetism, and it wouldn't turn. Best to ohm out the field windings to ground and to the armature. That will give you a definitive answer.

So, I was searching last night for a replacement and found that the lighter was made by casco. It originally said casco 6v-8v on it. I assume the element with be a shorter length, and thicker metal, like all things 6v. I rewired my car completely, and fused every circuit. I used oversized gauge with modern insulation. I'd like to keep the lighter socket for a phone charger as well. Or any other device. I have a simple phone so if im going anywhere i screen shot maps ahead of time. I really should have a paper map! The element is broken completely. Replacement are on ebay, but expensive. The knob jams the unit because of its dimensions. It's to fat to slip inside the element "shell" when pushing it in.

While I'm not a smoker, I badly want a working lighter. It's a strange necessity of mine. Like a factory working clock or Radio. My lighter is all there, but the element is shot and the wire pulled out of the back. Is my only solution Ebay? Get a new element amd repair the socket? I tried using a new 6 volt assembly and fitting my knob to it. But the knob jams and renders it useless. Insight anyone?

Also in B.C. south coast. I've been reading and there is talk about replacing resistors. I agree though, doesn't seem like a problem child. My electronics experience goes as far as recapping crts and replacing/reflowing obviously bad parts. I assume they can't be checked in circuit. No need to ask for forgiveness. My knowledge of these radios is still in its infancy.

Ah tough luck. Wash that acid off stat.

There is probably a screw inside the piston. I say this because the piston is keyed. Just makes sense.

Did you resolve this? The headlights shouldnt tank the ammeter. Sounds like a draw. Test headlight wiring to ground with an ohm meter.

I'm not sure, but that linkage doesnt look original. Both my 50 and 52 dont have a solenoid at all. It looks like the linkage has oblonged the hole pretty bad also. Not sure about grease, but fluid film works great and is a dielectric. Where about in b.c. are you? I'm in the fraser valley. Nice car!

Was tough getting the pics. And it looks like the linkage is rubbing the heater duct a little. But this should give you the idea. The wiring looks worse than it is...i swear haha.

I am on the hunt for original letters! I haven't yet. As for the wipers. I kept the original vacuum motor and linkage in place and measured its throw. Then I attached a crank to the motor to reciprocate a piece of flat bar the needed amount. I mounting the motor off the steering column support and tied into the drivers side of the regulator. For pivots, I just drilled the arms, nut and bolted 1/4 20s solid, then slipped the other arm on and used a lock nut to retain it. I did have to beef up the original pivots at the vacuum motor. I removed the rubber and fit door hinge bushings that I widdled down. Ill just snap a pic. I mounted a switch in the stock location and made the original nob fit. Cost 15 bucks. That's the plan. I will replace the capacitors and see what happens. The previous owner said it was working when he pulled it...in 1967! Haha. My jaw just about dropped when he said that. I praised him for holding onto it for all these years. I'm not an electronics wiz, i know enough to be dangerous. That's a crying shame, usually it's the other way around. You guys get all the good cars! THANK YOU for all your kind words, questions and ideas. I've enjoyed myself a lot putting this car together. I'm glad to be surounding myself with like minded people.

Scooped this car for parts but im having mixed thoughts on it. It needs rockers, floor and more. But I got it running and it sounds pretty good. Currently going through the process to get registration for it. So here's my plan. Yank the body to stick on a different frame, maybe even a 4x4. Then use the chassis for parts. The engine is a 23" and so will be sold. It's a four door and isnt worth a huge investment. But i saved it from the crusher so it will live on in one way or another. My question is regarding the engine. It doesnt seem to have the typical p23xxxx markings. What is it? Thanks, Andrew

Hello everyone, I've been lurking around here for a good while, and have finally decided to join. I picked up my 1950 dodge deluxe in october 2022. It was a total basket case, but fairly complete. Had the front clip off. Cleaned, rust treated, painted and assembled it correctly as it was half-assed together wrong. I went through the starter and repaired it. I honed the brake master back to life, drum assemblies look new. Rebuilt the steering box, carb, fuel pump and horns(craigslist scores). Rewired it front to rear with oversized wire and new sockets, everything soldered. Had to get the heater core recored. The engine was rebuilt in 2000 and was never ran. The generator was freshly rebuilt and the reg looked like new old stock. I rigged up a 12v power window motor for the wipers and it works just fine on 6v. I replaced metal around the front body mounts and fender bottoms. It's completely stock other than being lowered 3 inches. I picked up an 803 radio in much better condition than the 807 that was in it. So that will be the next major project. It's a work in progress but I'm daily driving it. This pic is before I rattle can chromed the front bumper and added the bumperettes. Plans are to get rid of the horribly red paint. Other pics are mid build and the day it came home. Cheers, Andrew