D35 Torpedo

This whole thread has sent me down a rabbit hole of PCV tech. Seems there isn't a database for this info anywhere, and not surprising, considering there are probably thousands of variations. Would be cool if someone with a flow bench was able to test, and record data on even a dozen common types.

Update, while it's great at temp, cold running needs to be tuned.

Strange, I like the way it runs now. I made major changes and just messed it up. Went back to what I had and tweaked it, now it's great. It will run leaner, cuz your pulling a lot of fresh air in through the breather, but, I had fattened up my fueling a bit already.

The oil filler still has the breather, so as to allow the pcv to work, hence the vacuum leak. The former road draft tube is ofcourse capped and is now a pcv housing.

I didn't know that there were major differences in pcvs. At any rate, I put my vacuum gauge inline with the valve and had 7-8 "s at idle. I pinched the pcv off and reset the idle enrichment. Then I popped the top and compressed the step-up spring to soften its rate a bit. These changes made it pretty good. My first attempt, I changed the spring for a soft one and it was terrible. Anyways, hesitation is gone so I'm happy.

I installed a pcv yesterday to solve an issue, but I've created another. First issue was fumes coming in from the road draft. I believe I had some fumes coming in from the road draft, but it also could have been from having half an exhaust. I put a tail pipe on and made a pcv. Solved any smells I was getting. But now, i've created a vacuum leak and the car has a hesitation. I'm sure completing the exhaust system could change the air/fuel as well. I like the pcv and always intended on making one to keep the oil cleaner, longer. So now i need to tune it around the new parameters. Has anyone else installed a pcv, and then had to retune the engine?

I'm beginning to think it will be easier to make my own from scratch, templating off a spare manifold.

Since you brought back this thread, I woudn't mind a twin carb intake for my 25".

Wd40 is the wrong product..but I get where you're going. I use fluid film or move it.

I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the accelerator pump spring, it was stretched to long. As far as throttle shaft leaks, I put an O-ring on either side to mitigate any possible vacuum leaks.

I agree with ignition being the culprit.

The sediment bowls are effective.

Here

Funny. The slot is there for a manual release lever. That's how my 50 dodge is. You could always convert it to manual.

The factory gauges do wear out with age. Mine is so funky that I disconnected it and stuck an aftermarket one in the engine. I just hid the new gauge under the dash.

That's how it was here until the environazis changed it. I see a ton of hotrods having problems. They made the change quietly.

Disconnect and plug anything that is connected to the manifold and try again. Ie wipers and advance. I agree with greg g on everything else.

Im sure its just a reflector, so white paint is adaquate.

To me, that all looks fine. Perhaps your local gas pump is adding something to the gas, wouldnt surprise me one bit. The fuel isnt pouring out the side of the carb, so cleaning up the gasket surfaces to a smooth finish and make sure they are true. Use JB weld to body work the gasket surface if you have to. Also, use a fresh gasket..

My car had a bracket so i used it...right or wrong. A sponge will carry water to the top of it as well through capillary action.

Ah ok i got ya. There should be a metal tag wired to the arm rest frame from factory with the part number stamped on it.

And the compression is so low that high octane fuel isnt needed. However, I use to run 94 until they ruined it with ethanol. Now i just run 87.

I think the vacuum line is suppose to follow the head around the front, not over the head. As for the fuel, perhaps parts of the alloy disolved out of the metal, leaving a sponge-like material. Or what you are seeing is vapour condensing. That's my guess. The tops of these carbs do warp easily, I usually tap the metal between the bolt holes with a small hammer, then sand it flat on a true surface. The hammer makes it so you dont have to sand as much to get it flat.

Perhaps not, but we are talking the glory days of automotive production. And even today, everything is year make and model specific. Cars are full of proprietary garbage to dazel the consumer. Every 4 door car is different in the rear seating compared to its two door counterpart. It's inherent to its design. I'm not sure there is a single car produced today in both a two door and four door. But that's a different topic all together. As for a 2door d35 or p19, the arm rest mounts against a stationary panel, and so are flat on the back side. They are not upholstered either. The 4 door version doesnt have that luxury with a door beside it. I cant see a p15 being any different...

All I can do is reference my 1950 parts book and google images. What I've said is deduced from that. Anything about other years is speculation. There is no possible way a 2 and 4 door can be the same, or they would share part numbers. You're talking a two sided shape vs a one.