jcmiller

As will Hagen's in Puyallup, WA, at about half the price of White Post. White Post does offer a lifetime guarantee, however, and paints them. I used Hagen's and was very happy with them.

We all need those!

Several times a year I get emails from parties who have stumbled across my posts (or ads in the local Plymouth Club bulletin) looking for parts and who supposedly have the part. It can be pretty humorous. I was looking for a Chrysler straight 8 and the person sent me a photo of a Buick engine. I was able to found the photo on ebay in about 5 minutes. Today it was this: Subject: Wanted: 1946-48 Chrysler M5 transmission and fluid coupling with 10” clutch plate. Need everything between engine and driveline. Happy New Year !!! I am very delighted to source out your ADVERT request on the subject line as I have lots of spares to throw in the market. Let me know what you are looking to purchase and I will get back to you with what is available. What's your phone number? E-mail me on ian.bremmer016@gmail.com Cheers, Ian Bremmer Devon United Kingdom A transmission from the UK?! The names change, but the scam is always the same. Pretty easy to spot. It's one reason I don't use my home email address in ads, only a secondary Hotmail address.

Bingster, I think you can register your vehicle in Iowa as an antique vehicle and use the vintage plate wherever you go. But if you register as a "limited use" vehicle then you can only legally use the vehicle for special events. Because your car is a 1947, you can display just one plate. See below. Jeff Iowa code: 321.115 Antique vehicles — model year plates permitted. 1.a. A motor vehicle twenty-five years old or older may be registered as an antique vehicle. The annual registration fee is the fee provided in section 321.113, 321.122, or 321.124. b. The owner of a motor truck, truck tractor, road tractor, or motor home that is twenty-five years old or older who desires to use the vehicle exclusively for exhibition or educational purposes at state or county fairs, or at other places where the vehicle may be exhibited for entertainment or educational purposes, may register the vehicle as a “limited use” vehicle in accordance with sections 321.58 through 321.62. The “limited use” registration under this paragraph permits driving of the vehicle upon the public roads to and from state and county fairs or other places of entertainment or education for exhibition or educational purposes and to and from service stations for the purpose of receiving necessary maintenance, or for the purposes of transporting, testing, demonstrating, or selling the vehicle. c. The owner of a motor vehicle registered under this subsection may display authentic Iowa registration plates from the model year of the motor vehicle, furnished by the person and approved by the department, in lieu of the current and valid Iowa registration plates issued for the vehicle, provided that the current and valid Iowa registration plates and the registration card issued for the vehicle are simultaneously carried within the vehicle and are available for inspection to any peace officer upon the officer’s request. ... 321.37 Display of plates. 1. Registration plates issued for a motor vehicle other than a motorcycle, motorized bicycle or a truck tractor shall be attached to the motor vehicle, one in the front and the other in the rear. The registration plate issued for a motorcycle or other vehicle required to be registered hereunder shall be attached to the rear of the vehicle. The registration plate issued for a truck tractor shall be attached to the front of the truck tractor. The special plate issued to a dealer shall be attached on the rear of the vehicle when operated on the highways of this state. 2. Registration plates issued for a motor vehicle which is model year 1948 or older, and reconstructed or specially constructed vehicles built to resemble a model year 1948 vehicle or older, other than a truck registered for more than five tons, motorcycle, or truck tractor, may display one registration plate on the rear of the vehicle if the other registration plate issued to the vehicle is carried in the vehicle at all times when the vehicle is operated on a public highway.

Restoration Specialties sells "painted cowlboard" for this purpose. It is not very expensive, but the shipping is terrible.

Someone must have told him because now the ad mentions it.

I don't know if this is accurate, but it's from the judging guide and may be helpful: All 1938 Plymouth rims have (3) slots where the center hub meets the rim. The rims have (2) painted stripes. One is located on the outer edge, approximately ½” from the edge of the rim. The other pin stripe is located on the rim, approximately 1” away from the hubcap. Body Wheels Fenders Stripe Black Black Black Gold Middy Blue (light) Middy Blue Middy Blue Ivory Mercury Blue (dark) Mercury Blue Mercury Blue Red or Silver Garfield Green (dark) Garfield Green Garfield Green Light Green Avon Green (light) Avon Green Avon Green Ivory Stone Beige Stone Beige Stone Beige Ivory Silver Wing Gray (light) Silver Wing Gray Silver Wing Gray Light Green Plymouth Gunmetal (dark) Plymouth Gunmetal Plymouth Gunmetal Light Green

Thanks for taking the time to make these posts.

Was it green originally? It looks like a nice color where the light housing was.

Looking forward to following this one. I have a '46 3-window Chrysler with a similar "floor."

As a fellow '42 owner, I look forward to following this thread. I like that picture too! I set it as my wallpaper. You're lucky to have that "scoop"/valence intact under the front bumper.

You will be surprised what an improvement you can get with very fine steel wool.

It's very encouraging to hear that.

If you're talking about the fuzzy molding on the garnish molding, it is called the "inner belt strip," at least by Restoration Specialties. There is a diagram on page 7 of their catalog that shows the different door moldings. There are a lot of different kinds. You can send them a sample to match if you want.

Billy Gibbons sounds quite happy with it too.

It's interesting, and I guess fortunate, that they decomposed in different locations. Mine is shot at the bottom, like your original. I'm not experienced enough to weigh in on your plan. I had the same thought as P15, but your location is a problem. Have you checked out Fastenal third-party shipping? There is a Fastenal in Kenai. You might be surprised at their rates. I had a transmission and a bunch of other parts shipped from Missouri to Oregon for $200.

Thanks Don. Yes, I was thinking of the hair-pulling category. Here are a couple links that might be more helpful than my post: http://www.chetscoins.com/1948p15/2011/02122011.htm http://p15-d24.com/topic/23385-installed-my-stainless-steel-welting/?hl=%2Bfender+%2Bwelting#entry229189

From reading old threads, I think this belongs in the water tube and rear drum category!

To this day, I still have a hard time believing that the seal caused that perfectly formed groove in the hub. Royal, the 42's are tapered too, even though you can't see it in the photo. That's also why I considered welding. Robert's post reminded me that someone suggested brazing when I was looking into it. I called a couple shops and they didn't do that, but I didn't look very hard. It also seemed like the hub was going to have to be removed from the drum in order to turn it back into shape after adding metal.

Mine has a slight taper too. I considered having it welded and machined, as you are now. A fellow Plymouth owner that I trust thought the heat from welding might damage the hub and didn't think grease leaking through was going to be an issue. So I didn't repair it. I don't know the diameter and it's back on the car.

I believe this is the type of groove he is talking about.

The glass in Frank's picture is the glass I need. It's not the same glass as the regular coupe.

I feel for you. I need rear glass for a business coupe too (1946). Good luck.

I used a hammer and a punch. They make special punches for rivets, but I used a regular one. I put one punch in a vise with the flat end of the handle sticking straight up. I pushed the rivet through a hole in the channel and the clip with the head of the rivet inside the channel. I positioned the head of the rivet directly on top of the end of the punch handle in the vise. My wife then pushed down on the clip and channel so the rivet protruded as far as possible out the back of the channel. I used a hammer and a second punch to peen the end of the rivet. Picture of original and replacement attached. Restoration Specialties also had appropriate rivets.

Stan, I ordered my channel and related parts from Restoration Specialties. To do the channel, I also had to order and end tab and two clips and rivets for the end tab. I riveted the end tab to the channel and the clips just slide onto the channel. The end tab is a metal piece that goes on the end of the channel and fits into a slot in the door. The two clips have spring tabs that slide over a metal rim in the door. I think this is what I ordered, but it was for a '42 Plymouth: 3-A-1 X 1: receiving channel 2435 X 4: channel clips 4148 X 2: end clips They also have the belt weatherstrips if you want to take care of that while the door is apart. Jeff