jcmiller
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Everything posted by jcmiller
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Do you mean that you don't recommend it because it also leaves a residue?
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What do you think of white gas (Coleman type fuel) as a grease and wax remover for paint prep? I sanded out some rust spots on the floor, then treated with phosphoric acid. Now there are painted areas with treated sections mixed in. I was thinking about wiping the area down with white gas before painting. I have some lacquer thinner too, but it sounds like that can leave a residue. Also have acetone and have used it before, but I think that might damage the existing paint. I know there are special "grease and wax" removers, but I don't want to go buy more chemicals unless I have to.
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Thx jxc. The links work now.
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I can't see the pics in the original post and wish I could. Instead I see large images of a baby cheetah with text saying: photo not found, click for photos.
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Thx. It did not feel overly warm so it is probably OK. I guess I'll find out soon enough.
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I ran my battery charger for about an hour on the 12 volt setting. Do you think that damaged the 6 volt battery?
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I believe that rear windows from 1942-1948 Chrysler, Dodge, or Desoto business coupes will work for your car. Still super hard to find, but slightly easier than focusing on Dodge. You're lucky yours is good.
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Thx DJ - I think you might be right.
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Yes, please do tell Tim. I want to generate some $ for a Fury I'm working on.
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Do you need a set of 6?
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These don't seem to match my 42 of the pictures I have looked at for 1946-48. What are they for? Thx.
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Point well taken, but is that true even when the garage is attached to the house and the floor is all part of the same floor slab?
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I don't know how thick it is, but the shear strength of the anchor bolts linked to by Tod is very high, even at just 1.5 inches of embedment, and I have to assume the floor is quite a bit thicker than that. The anchors will be near a back wall, under a shelf, so I don't think I will trip on them, at least not without working at it pretty hard.
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Hi Brent - Thanks for the offer of the post and the help. I'm going to pursue the climbing anchor plate first. I like the idea of having it low to the ground, both to keep it out of the way and to avoid levering the bolts out. I'll look at the wall mount winch idea too that RB mentioned, but I expect that will be rather expensive and in the case of my garage, probably even more in the way. Plus, the direction of pull would tend to pull the bolts out of the wall. Jeff
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Thanks Tod, that is exactly what I was looking for.
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My driveway slopes down and away from the garage. I am sometimes hesitant to test drive a car I've been working on because it might die, and I won't be able to get it back in the garage. Thus, I think it would be handy to have an anchor on the floor that I can connect a come-along to and pull the car back into the garage. Has anyone here set something like that up? Thx.
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Mine was originally stapled to the garnish. I used stainless wire through the original holes to secure the replacement. I think I found clips for the for the door side.
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I like the green color. I'm partial to it because my first car was a green Barracuda. The interior on my Fury is green though.
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This is my first big-block car so I'm looking forward to that.
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I sold my rusty '46 New Yorker and replaced it with this land yacht. Unlike the New Yorker, it has a floor, motor, and transmission. I've been making some modifications to my garage so it will fit. It's a 1970 Fury, btw.
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Look up 1941 plymouth restoration #13 on YouTube. It's not as easy as he makes it look but should help you.
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I had to buy an 8 ft length too.
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This may or may not help regarding the channel: http://p15-d24.com/topic/39916-window-channel/ For the fuzzy strips, I used the stainless wire approach mentioned by an earlier poster.
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You're making so much progress, you're going to have to change the name of this thread.
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Some more pics and an article. http://scdclub.blogspot.com/2006/07/48-chrysler-traveler.html
