DJ194950

The updraft carb and manifold setup looks almost exactly like the setup we had on rough terrain forklifts with a capacity of 6k to 12K that had the Chrysler Ind. motors. Exhaust exited on top of the motor at the bell housing end and then turned 90 degrees to exit the hood side and again 90 turn to exit the rear of the forklift. We a one "newer" 10K lift with a 318 Chrysler Ind. motor that the exhaust came out the tops of the exhaust manifolds with the same type of turns as before and both pipes had the solid steel cased glass packed mufflers! The operators always loved that machine! Sounded great after "breaking in" with the entire exhaust system that was only about 3-3 1/2 ft long per side. DJ

Stockton Wheel would have been my best bet but I understand that there are new owners as of several years ago, too bad if the quality is no longer there. Had a long and Good rep. I might say try a phone call to have new rims built to your specs? Either Wheel Vintiques (if they do that) or maybe- http://www.petepaulsen.com/catalog/oem.html. Located in Lodi Ca. and have also been around quite a few years, a call to see if they can build what you want! Do not think they will redo yours? but their web page does not say either way. DJ

Maybe if the other person with gloves on tries to put some resistance on the speedo drive end as an attempt to stop it.. Why? the cable is driven by a gear in the speedo drive adapter at the trans to the drive gear inside the trans. The gears could be bad- probably not so as stated earlier- or the nut on the drive line flange could be loose as the gear inside the trans is held tight against rotation by the compression pressure against the rear output bearing by the compression of the rear trans nut. Going by part experience several years ago and looking now looking at the parts book. If i am wrong on this I Know someone with more current knowledge will correct me! Would be the first? mistake I made Today! LOL. DJ

Bobacuda- How much are houses selling for? Been thinking of moving out of Californication! Maybe it should be Califpornication, I hear that Ca. is the porn making capitol of the U.S. Thought about saying it's the place to find future presidents wives but that may a political comment! DJ

Speedi -sleeve makes thousands and thousands of sizes of these repair sleeves. My local bearing supply house had all the measurements on-line . Take your part and seal to them and they can look them up. Perhaps the manufacturer makes another sleeve with the correct dimensions needed -ID and OD , but also wider on width? Seals have a "best" tightness ( range) for fit on sealing lip to seal surface and it is listed in their specs area, book or online. Good luck, DJ

Upper tailgate Original part # is 1338879 for what it is worth- never have seen one on Ebay after 15 years of looking Is it available now anywhere else? Have not looked for one for about 10 years. My 50 Suburban had Tailgate glass weatherstrip that was a cut to fit type with the locking strip put on the inside. Sure it was not original ,Me thinks? Removed glass about 15 years ago, kept a sample but its buried away in pile or parts in the car that's in storage. Also in storage I have just one of the sliding passenger window seals. Takes two seals (diff. part) per side. Found it on Ebay about 10 years ago. Seller only had one and never saw another and cannot remember the # and my parts books leaves me lost for finding the part #'s. Happy hunting, DJ

Here is one complete system-not cheap but still will require steer column shaft work, but--- This companies website answers many questions if you are at all interested. Seems these do not require a lot of wires. Do the factory( wreck yards) units require just a few wires or they also hooked into the whole car computer?/ No idea. Unisteer Improved Electra-Steer Kits 8052160 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing.htm

Like those "big" screwdriver sockets? also know as draglink sockets. Look at this Ebay set- ONE Proto USA Professional Drag Link Socket 3_8" Drive 5244, NOS _ eBay.htm

The way you have stated-from #1 post (battery connection) to big post on starter will help diagnose whether the solenoid is the problem or starter if if disengagement before motor starting (it no longer happens). Does not disengage early= solenoid, still happens= starter. What I posted is the same idea just jumping from #1 to #4, which also bypasses the solenoid just using different connection points. I try not to jump anything directly on battery when possible due to chance on a spark at the battery which I have witnessed-blew the sides out of the battery and acid went everywhere! What a mess and dangerous! Also if I am going to make a fair size spark- the spark will make some pitting on the connection points- I would rather those pits be on a "cheap" solenoid than on the starter big post "more expensive" to replace if excessive pitting( nut not longer want to come off post! occurs- not often that it gets that bad but if others have done it before--- Also- Just occurred to me- Check that all connections are tight on the back of ignition switch, solenoid and starter . This has caused problems to occur on other forum members cars. Do not forget the ground connections! Happy Hunting, I hope I explained my thoughts better this time- or made it worse? DJ

Mopar cars of the era had them. Truck buyers were too cheap to pay for that Extra charge-maybe the factory/dealers thought so?? DJ

Only one I know of is from Fatmans Fabrication which is a frame stub where your old frame section is cut off about 12 inch in front of the firewall and replaced (welded in) with new frame section and mounts are built in for the M2. Includes R&P steer ,radiator and bumper mounts. Must modify/ replace original steer column. Nice if you can afford/experience to do this. A search using the "search" function on this forum at top right of page with "steering replacements" or "front suspension replacement" should get you enough old posts on this subject to keep you reading for days! Fatmans any other methods. Enjoy! DJ

There are solenoids that look like Don's but they are Not all the same. On Ford "type" the small posts are labeled "S" and "I". The solenoid is grounded through the mounting base. The "S" is connected to the ignition switch start post to activate the starter solenoid and the other small post (I) goes to the coil for a hot start (full voltage) as the Ignition from the starter switch is run through a resistor (externally mounted) to lower voltage to the coil after running for a time to lower coil temp. and prolong point life. No built in voltage resistors in the solenoid that I have ever heard of. The second type that Looks the same is not- the solenoid is Not grounded through the base. One of the small posts needs to be grounded (either one, does not matter) the other needs to be the activator hot (momentary) to make the big connections close to connect the starter to the battery. This type is also used to activate a battery to Many motors/etc. in other uses. An easy way to test if problem is solenoid or starter Bendix -but makes a big spark -is to use one lead of the jumper cables hooked to one of the big solenoid posts and then connect the other jumper cable to the other big post of the solenoid (the spark) and see if will start (ignition on) the motor without disengagement of the starter (early withdrawal). DJ

I hope that at least it was someone who just joined this forum to sell his parts and almost/or none - posts besides the Sale items!! I agree with desoto1939's post. DJ

Found in a 1949 Plymouth parts book in the accessories section. DJ

Don't want to get stuck in Lodi Again!! DJ

I think early implementation of GPS directions still had a bug or two? Rough start with new technology! DJ

I am Wrong again! I do remember that on boats about the propane lockers and some had a vent that went outside that was lower than the locker if not the locker itself! Some larger world traveler sail boats were equipped with compressed natural gas(cng) instead of propane which Is lighter than air Which was available almost worldwide! Sorry OP about going so OT! DJ

Well a start would be turbo changer inter cooled, fuel injection, electronic ignition with variable timing and also one step further --computer controlled valve timing would be good! Sorry but these old engines were really up to to snuff for high 20's or even 30 MPG. Too many computers and engineers, flow benches are/were required to make it happen. Remember the Big phony gas shortage? What did Detroit do? 2.08+ rear gear ratios! Maybe that would work on flat ground with a fluid drive trans setup if your not in a big hurry and did not overheat the fluid! DJ

These are in a 50 Plymouth. I looked at a 49 several years ago and the only difference I saw that it had 3 through bolts that connected it to the body. I hope that what you are looking for? DJ

While propane IS flammable obviously it is Not a liquid that can pool. There are other spray type cans with flammable gas/liquids that also work to do this check, OP was concerned about the flammability issue. Seemed to me the propane was the least likely to cause any issues due to it's lighter than air and rises than many other types often used that are heavier than air and tend to settle in low areas around motor. I have personally used these other types of flammable liquids/gases to test for leaks, but I can be very care free at times- - but this trait has caused some regrets! DJ

With engine running -Instead of spraying anything that is flammable at the carb parts and bases etc., others have suggested used an opened (slightly open I assume) but not lit propane touch. Propane is lighter than air so will rise and not collect or pool on engine parts which should be safer than some others way to check. Never had need to try it since I read about this method on this forum, but if I needed to do that kind of checking I will certainly try it! DJ

Tabloids back in the day said Bill Clinton hung out there! DJ

Seems nobody that I noticed have on this post mentioned your 0.025 plugs gap as stated. Should be at least 0.32 for your car with points and standard ignition setup. Does make a difference. Your problem may or may not be affected by this. Kind of doubt a big change but thought I would mention this. Others have stated things most likely. A call to George Ash or a PM to member Tim Kingsbury about dual carb jetting might be worth your time. Electronic ign. setups are recommended at least 0.035 plug gaps or more on some with the same plugs! DJ

One last road trip on a bucket list? DJ

Have you turned the motor over by hand to inspect all the ring gear teeth? Turning by the fan belt(plugs out of motor), a pry bar tooth by tooth under motor (flywheel cover removed) or through the stater mount hole to see them all. Often just or two areas of the ring gear will be damaged and the rest look perfect. All motors seem to have a favorite spot or two to end up when turned off, damage occurs just in those locations! Just a couple of thoughts and checks just to be 100% sure. DJ