DJ194950

jim was checking out the availability of the 6 v. relay you brought up. there is one on ebay for sale by that # now. found a couple other vw supply sellers that sell them, but were out of stock using that part #. after some chasing i found the vw original #. 311.941.581 then i googled vw 6 volt headlight relay and found several places selling the relay in stock, including one seller that i could not find the part before. they are using the vw #. thought i'd pass on the vw # for others that may want the relay you found. great work jim. doug

copied from borg warner r-10 maintainence manuel : attached: a gl-1 mineral oil is avail at napa and per others tractor supply houses that should match b.w.'s specs. hope you can see copy, you may have to use zoom.

joe, this pics are from my stock 3 sp. 1950. my 49 parts book shows the same shapes. the overdrive arms where the same on both od's that i've had.

joe, the shifter arms are not correct for 49-50. maybe for 46-48? or wait, didn't you say the trans was out of a later model? any way, the arms off a standard 3 sp. are the same as the od trans. swap them off the original 3 sp.. if you don't have them, let me know as i have a set. i had the same problem installing my trans. turned out the throwout bearing was turning slightly and i had not put any lube on the imput shaft. a little lube and reaching up through flywheel cover to hold bearing straight as trans is pushed forward should get er done. working alone? my opinion -damn near impossible. but somehow i think you'll do it.

joe, i read my my 49-50 repair manuel 3 times about establishing end play. as i read it .005 is exactly the measure your trying to end up with. sounds perfect to me. don't forget the seals/ i used orings on the retainer bolt heads. details are making this car almost better than new. great work, doug

:confused:on ebay there is an accessory manuel for sale by SEAPLYM that supposedly lists an mopar turn signal for 1949-1950 mopar. don't still know if one was avail. for 49 plymouth or not. cost ya $19.49 to find out. if there's a part #, at least you would know what to look for. ebay# 260763696350 happy hunting, doug

thanks for the info martybose, copied for my file , so if i try to make my own again i'll have another size/source. i did bid on the ebay shift rite knob set-up but was onbid later. forgot to get up at 4:30 am to snipe it. oh well. seller indicated he probably has more. put on my ebay saved searches. try again later. thanks all, doug

jim, if i can bother you once more-could you tell me if the sw. is n.o. or n.c.? thread size of mount hole? if size is 3/8 course, i WANT one! looks great. the n.c. or n.o. can be dealt with, another bosch relay at most. thanks, doug

jim, can you post a pic of the shift-rite knob/switch ?.where to locate one?. made my own with an old alum. knob and a n.c. mini micro switch from radio shack. i'd tried using an original nos knob but promply split it in half when drilling it out for the switch. the alum. one is smallish in diameter and would like a larger knob. thanks for the # for a 6 volt latching relay. will pass it on the the person who now has the 2nd. od trans. i rebuilt, and add it to my parts list. thanks, doug

randroid, i think what your looking at is a 10-24 or 10-32 bolt hanging below the dash. had three nuts on it. not holding anything on.why? no longer there. removed at same time wire cutters came out to remove the spaggetti! it was either a complete rewire front to back or install a fire suppression system under hood,dash and trunk.

the WHOLE wiring on the car was like this. 1 wire twisted onto headlight (low beam only, no high. bared wires everywhere. i think it was 12 v. because of the bulbs were. but the car was bought minus engine and wheels and many small items. now is 12v. through out. only wire big enough and usable were to tail lights and rear turns, but still needed solder and crimps in place of twisted connections and tape. if the missing engine hadn't worn out or broke and got "lost", it would have burned before long. the good part was with all its problems i bought it cheap.

:confused:don not only does your switch look different, so does your wiring. wheres the twisted connections and electrical tape?? must be a california thing?

on the attached photo of my dash backsides, the hole upper left is for the ign. switch.just to the right of that is another hole in a piece that is screwed on. hard to see, but look where the green wire and brown are over the hole. that is where the bulb plugs in. there is a small slot that lights up the hole for the key to be put in. lights when headlight sw. on and panel light is also on. maybe yours is missing? SO many pieces, but your making great progress! attention to details! great work. doug

;)not 100% sure of your search, but look at headwinds headlights. pricey but very nice. i just googled the name above. happy hunting doug

jim your totally correct. but my understanding(misunderstanding?) was that joe was going to put it under the throttle.i think? i got that from a earlier post of joes. my point was that you could not floor the pedal to kickdown and slow the motor at the same time with the switch he described. doug

sorry joe but i don't think the switch mentioned will work. to drop out of overdrive electrically, two things have to happen.1-cut power to solenoid 2-engine rpms need to drop momentarily so that there is no longer pressure on engagement prawl so that it can retract. the switch you described only accomplishes 1 of the 2. on ebay search- kickdown switch. you'll find a guy selling some described as FURD od switch. this is for under the throttle pedal type. about $32 shipped. should work fine. does not say FURD on it. nobody will know. cole hersee was making these, but could not find a part # for you. back when i did have a #, still could not find any cheaper that parts places could order. happy garage motoring doug sorry to say but my 50's back in the garage for major rear body work.bent frame.

:confused:if not confused yet, look at pinions avail in 50 chrysler parts book. i've tried to determine if 18,19,20 gears will fit std. trans also. appears so, but???. seems to be tied to tire size, not trans type as there is no mention of trans in applications. must do math!! tire diamenters (not listed) would be much better to determine proper gear tooth #. don't think i'll try. wait until my car is back on the road. have a 17 & 18. but where to find a 19 or 20 if would be closer? appreciate an post with what you guys find. on attached try: hit shift and +++ inlarges pic. thanks and happy motoring, doug

first jim don't be so hard on yourself. stuff happens. assembly of these trans may seem not too complicated but when an od unit is hanging on the end with the tailshaft as you try got get all the guts of the main box to go together as they all move in differant directions- easy becomes very difficult. joe ask jim about checking od functions. he knows as much now as the guy who designed it. practice practice etc. even if not by choice. good luck to both of you. doug

i agree with young ed. when the heater motor under the hood is on hi it is noisy. with the size of heater core in these (large) it will cook you out inside the car. made for artic climates!? change over to 12 volt is relatively easy. hardest part is getting the orginal squirrel cage fans off the old motors. see joe flanagans posts from several days back on this. on seach function, type" blower motor" to see posts napa change over #'s 12 volt motors: underhood-bk6551083, inside defrost bk6551022 did this change about 2 months back. about $90 for both. enjoy your classic. this forum is the best source for info, great help. happy motoring doug

hi, sent pm about complete carb. happy motoring doug

hi jim, still tranny problems. my GUESS ? : your synchronizer shift plates have managed to get partially out of place and not allowing the 2-3 shift sleeve to move. or, the brass rings are not properly engaged in the slots causing the same problem. check if you can manually shift the gear sleeve with the shifter cover off. if you can't, time to take trans apart to check the mentioned parts installation. good luck, doug

where are you located in central ca.? i'm in modesto. have 50 4 dr. have a spare carter (ball &ball) 1 bbl. i bought a while back on ebay. has broken choke linkage piece but could be exchanged with your choke parts. base throttle is tight and carb is complete. probably work out something very reasonable. carb # is D6H2 let me know if that will help, doug

i'm going to have to find some of that pb blaster stuff. much better than beating on parts. readily available?? thanks doug

hi again joe, yes it did remove that squirrel cage several months back to change my motor to 12 volt. it was a hastle. soaked in penetrating oil overnight, then held between knees while i used a hammer and punch to hit shaft, moved about .002 in. no more. soaked oil again. hammer and socket used to move it back .002. put flat stock accross under cage ,both sides, in vise. hammer and punch moved about .005, drive on, oil, drive off, etc,etc. after about and hour with many breaks,coffee etc, it came off. but you are ahead of me as your setscrew came out. i had to put the heat wrench to mine just to get the screw out. attached pics as what ahead when you did get all apart if parts are needed/damaged let me know these parts all appear good if you need them. good luck, doug

joe, its the steer column/dash support. goes through hole in firewall above column, washer and nut are under hood. the end with beveled hole sits on lower inside edge to support/fasten the steer column support left side. remember the hastle trying to get that straight slotted bolt loose under the dash now?? the tapered headed one? i'm sure you will remember it now. going good joe. doug