DJ194950

gl-1 oil is available from napa #65-201 was not in store here but had it next day. about $18.00 per gallon. took about half for 3 sp. w/od. happy hunting doug

i've installed and tried this relay setup in my 50 4 dr. also installed a switch to put ground to relay full time if desired. found out i like it best with cable to od in all the time with fulltime ground applied and just use switch installed in shift knob (ala pete-blueskies) to shift in or out of od at any speed or gear. first overdive is a waste of time but 2nd. over is useful arrond town. 3rd. over changes everything when cruising. quiet and smooth best change ever. thought i'd post a update. doug 49 suburban 50 more door:D

according to borg warner overdrive repair manuel, correct oil for the std. 3 speed box and overdrive unit is gl-1. so i'd assume if its ok in trans with overdrive it should be fine in trans without od as the main box and gears are the same and share oil. its what i'm using in my od trans. good news? doug 49 suburban 50 4 dr. super deluxe

:(joe is your glass still out?? it will easier for any method of extraction if you can heat the broken off easyout enough to draw out the temper.to do that it needs to be heated quickly to red hot and air cooled. wet rags covering that new paint. then you can try something like the dremel tools in the attached pic. these where bought at harbor freight as part of a 40 piece set for less than $20. grind a center to try drilling, probably still need a cobalt bit, or grind all the way thru as net nut portion your working on is only a hair thicker than 1/8 in. the orginal bolt however measures 5/8 in. long. i checked mine. grind until most all thread is gone and retap. forgot to mention the bits show are diamond coated. slow but will grind also anything. good luck, doug

:eek:how about welding a nut to the small piece sticking up like you would do to a broken off bolt.?? its been mentioned several times on this site. if you can then turn it counter clockwise while prying upward it should come out?? if so try putting heat AROUND the threaded area with the smallest weld tip you have and remove bolt with a new easyout. just my 2 cents. good luck, doug

joe attached pics. the most defining position will be the steer column support under the dash. at this point you may not have the dash reinstalled. if you can temp. hang dash in place and install support, rotate column until shifter shaft is centered in the hole for shaft. 2nd. way: don't swett this yet as you always loosen pinch bolt on lower end of column and rotate as needed later. just getting close now should be ok. hope this helps. doug

looked at mine joe, recently installed. 3 oclock is where it needs to be for the shifter rod to pass thru removable floor part and also align the rubber steer column seal to align. if you can, put removable floor in temp. w/rubber seal. it will tell you exactly where to rotate column. putting on shifter shaft temp. should make it very clear. getting closer-closer. hope that helps. pics needed ? pm if so. doug 50 4 dr. 49 suburban

nope again. since it's time to get out of the garage and make dinner?? it's almost the same as the first screw or bolt starter but made for philipps/tork headed items. the magnet is for retrieving the items that will still be dropped regardless of how carefull you are. have a good evening gentlemen, doug

nope. kinda-maybe in the family. try again?

how about a gl-1 mineral gear oil from napa #65-201?? recommended oil to use in plymouth overdrives by borg warner. no additives that hurt the guts of older trans. just a thought. by the forgot to mention it's 90 wt.

well several of ya passed that test. several got lost. next test: clue, one end has a magnet.

jim if i can help you resolve engagement problems, pm me. i'll try to share any knowledge i may have gained from working on my 2 od's. let me know, doug

i know my diagrams are hard to see. to go to the source on the vw relay: rodandcudtommagazine.com / tech acticles - relays hope this helps someone. doug 50 4 dr. 49 suburban

hi guys, been working on a couple of r-10overdrives and just finally got one installed and checked out in my 50 4 dr. i saw a article in rod and custom about a relay used by vw in years past that works exactly like what i needed and have seen at least 1 inquiry about a latching relay on past posts. thought i'd pass this info along. this relay closes connection between 1 terminal or a 2nd. when a momentary ground is put to a 3rd. terminal. it stays is one position until a ground is again applied to the 3rd. terminal. i,ve attached a CRUDE drawing of how i've used this for overdrive wiring. way back in junior college i took a class in drafting. at the end of session i asked the teacher about what my grade would be. he asked if i planned any further studies in drafting. i said no. so, he said that if i wasn't he would give me an "d" instead of failing me. this drawing proves why. i'm sure others will find differant ways to use this relay and wiring possibilities.

SORRY' your right on the seller id. i knew that, just i can't type or proofread. doug.

could not find his flyer with email, on ebay his seller id is: krusen64 one way to see some of his rubber parts i bought some pieces for my suburban that no one else seemed to have. very nice parts. doug 50 4 dr. 49 suburban

hi joe, that threaded hole on top is (the part) that has the mushroomed brass that holds it together. carefully grind the lip portion only. then the threaded part can be removed from below. my heater core is out sitting, waiting for a monday trip to the radiator shop for repair. I HOPE!! hopefully just the old soldered on end caps can be redone. testing at 4 lb. or less!! wish me luck. my vote on your woodgraining is for #3. looks great. where do you live again?? virginia?? alexandria?? seems fairfax va. where my cousin lives is close by. been a few years since i was there. do you think the airlines would let me bring my dash and window frames as carry-on?? or is it time for ROAD TRIP!! post pics when your rebuilt fuel sender is done. better yet, step by step pics. thanks doug p-19 p-20

per ply33.com, j.c. whitney part #zx128525u $34.99 10-78 ohm for chrysler and some fords universal fit, needs modifcations to fit. reuse your top mounting plate . happy hunting, doug p-19 p-20

i think i reconize your parts. looks to be back side with post already gone. on the top side will be where mushroomed brass head is located to be ground off. attached my senders pics top and bottom apart and set back together. hope this helps. 2nd. thing do you have a heater valve inside car like last pic? mine leaked after i finally put water in motor. nos on ebay $245. not! found a replacement. attached info. lastly my nos underhood heater unit that wasn't leaking before, decided to leak at the nos core after heat valve replacement!???. 1 1/2 steps foreward, 1 backwards. enjoy, doug

working on same problem joe. took 2 senders apart yesterday. posts are brass that are mushroomed over and carefully ground off. wiggle the windings post and they can be removed. i couldn't believe when i googled '1950 plymouth fuel sender' that the changeover to an adjustible new sender came up second on the search. now i'm just waiting for my j.c. whitney piece to be delivered. hope it's really as easy as the directions show. good luck, doug p-19 p-20

forgot attachment sorry, doug

hi joe, 2 attached pic are of low/reverse shifter rod. these came as a spare set for my 50. all bends are indenticle to what i put on car,work fine. springs are very light on both and serve to push trans. shift arm to rear. they can be easily be compressed with 2 fingers which is enough to hold shift arm rearward. as stated in an earilier post, straighten the small section at the spring end and you should be good to go. if you need i'll be happy to send my spare to you. unbelievable the amount to body repair you have done. far more than even my suburban, which i thought i'd never do that much repair again. great work joe, doug

good points all! if one of your possible leak areas doesn't fix this then drain and put grease it.no more leaks!! not really!! i've had several mopar trans that leaking at custer gear shaft at front of trans. gasket does not cover it and the gasket i've seen have a split anyway on lower edge. bell housing cover it? if a solid gasket were made? one i worked on had to drive this shaft rearward a far as possible(tailshaft will stop much travel) clean will brake clean and coat opening with permatex twice before leak was stopped. last thought or question: does your imput shaft bearing have a cover on the outter side?. will not stop 100% of oil but greatly cuts it way down, so that the properly oriented drain in in support plate can return excess. good luck. doug

ya, i know how his popularity poll is about 50/50 on this board. he will probably sell them at $1 each. so, 6 x $1 = 6 or if want to add more say 10 x $1 = $10. either way he will probably charge $12 to ship. what price did you say steele was? oh well, the shipping on things often made me look for alternatives. happy huntin' doug

hi joe, is this for a 49 or 50?? if so, they use a small dia. (1/2") head dia. with a push in type tit. only 1/8" tall. car orginally have 3 per side but could really use 2 more as they are so small. they have been on ebay but 4-5 bucks each. got some from andy b. old moparts about 2 months ago. $1 each. on online cat. they are in interior rubber listing. happy hunting doug 49 suburban 50 4 dr. stock