martybose
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Everything posted by martybose
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The hard part of adjusting the temp gauge is the fact that you can't just adjust it for the high temp, you have to adjust it so it is accurate at all temps. When I did mine the first attempt was dead on at 200, but 20 degrees off at the low end. It took several hours, alternating between 200 and 100 degree water, before I was able to get it accurate at both temps. Patience is your friend here. Marty
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You'll also need a generator pulley to go along with the narrow crank and waterpump pulleys. Marty
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Busycoupe, As one of the people who was active in Don's megathread on the ECI master cylinder mount, I can say that the kit I received could have been used as is, if I was willing to accept (1) the horrible side-to-side clearance on the shaft, (2) the lack of either pedal stop, and (3) the requirement to drill additional holes in the frame rail because they didn't bother trying to line the holes on the bracket up with existing holes. I just chose not to. Marty
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When my full dual exhaust setup was made it used 2" pipes and a couple of big glasspacks. After a couple of years I took it back to him and had him replace the glasspacks with a pair of standard three-pass turbo mufflers. Much nicer, in my opinion. Marty
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The one that I looked at (and passed on ....) had the 440 installed way high so that nothing interfered with the steering or the 440 oil filter. Fine for straight line use, but not what I wanted for street driving. Marty
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a cheaper solution is just to add a vacuum reservoir. You can get them from old cars or just buy a new metal one from most hot rod catalogs. They have a check valve that hold vacuum even when you stand on the gas. Works well. Marty
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When I had a custom 00 battery ground cable made up I speced it to reach one of the starter mounting bolts, with two extra 2 gauge leads, one to the frame and one to the body. Never had any grounding issues after that! Marty
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Saw a neat engine at the Charlotte swap meet.
martybose replied to Flatie46's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I'm more intrigued by the accessory drive; it must have been some interesting work to adapt those pulleys! Marty -
temperature behaviour/ reading, cranbrook 218 engine
martybose replied to bluefoxamazone's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I can't really explain it, you just need some needle nose pliers and try bending it. The trick is to adjust it so that both low and high readings are accurate; it's relative easy to get one right while throwing the other end of the scale way off. You just need to keep changing the water temp in the pan and see what the gauge does. That's why it takes so long, but after a while it kinda makes sense and you can get very close. Marty -
I hope you have better luck with it than I did. While it solved my boiling problem, I was never able to stop it from leaking from an amazing number of places. Head studs (resealed several times to no effect), Intake bolts, radiator hoses, thermostat housing. I gave up trying to fix them, and drove for several years just topping it off occasionally. The guy that bought my car changed the radiator, flushed out the block and changed to conventional antifreeze; problem solved. Marty
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I looked at the Edgy head way back when, but didn't buy one because I didn't like the fact that there was no water outlet at the firewall, so there was no way to run water through my Edmunds manifold. I ultimately found an Edmunds head, which cost me as much as the Edgy would have after I cleaned it up, installed Timeserts for the damaged sparkplug holes, took a skim cut on the surface and had the head polished. Marty
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Let's face it; there are too many variations of piston volume, piston depth, valve cutouts sizes and gasket thickness/volume to make any conclusions about what compression you will get with any combination of blocks and heads. If you want to know, you measure everything; if you don't want to know, you bolt everything together as is and it will probably work just fine anyway. Marty, who did measure everything and had a 9 to 1 motor with an Edmunds aluminum head.
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On the subject of the waterpump I would add that the later internal bypass pump has an extra hole in the backing plate that lines up with the hole in the late model block that is the internal bypass. If you want to use a newer pump in an external bypass motor you need to change the backing plate to the one off of your old pump; if you don't you will have a large water leak. Marty
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Externally the Mopar variant is unique, as they are the only ones that use that particular setup with the governor to control activation. Marty
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I seem to recall that Butch's Cool Stuff (the ad at the top of this forum) has a rearend shock package for our cars. Marty
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One of the joys of these carbs is that they don't have vacuum-operated power valves. Marty
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Good luck with this! About 15 years ago I tried to get a dual 97 setup on a modified Offy manifold working, and never got it right. I had adjustable main jets, and I could get it to run right at low speed but be extremely lean at full throttle, or I could get it to run right at full throttle but not idle. I briefly considered going to Holley 94's to get a working power valve, but ultimately switched to a different manifold with a set of Langdon Carter-Webers, which worked perfectly right out of the box. Marty
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Yes, they are all 25". Marty
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Not quite; a larger master cylinder will give you more volume but less pressure. Marty
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Correct. Way back when I went from 6V positive ground to 6V negative ground with an alternator install, and the radio worked just fine. Marty
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All very true. Mine failed because I had had the front of the car jacked way up in the air while I was having the steering box rebuilt, and for several reasons didn't notice the oil coming out of the rear seal. When I took it out to check out the steering fix i shifted into overdrive it whined for about 10 seconds, then let go. As you stated, I stopped, shifted out of overdrive and drove it home. Marty
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.... unless you make the mistake of running them a little too low on transmission oil, in which case the OD gears will take an immense dislike for each other and will promptly strip the teeth off of everything. Yes, I can attest to this personally. Marty
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Mine was registered in CA using the body number, which meant I had no issues when I put a newer 230 in place of the original motor. Marty
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Had to laugh reading Greg's comments. My other toy is a BMW M Coupe, which has a engine that produces peak power at 7400 RPM and redlines at 7600. It has so much midrange power that in over 60K miles I've driven it I don't think I've ever had it over 6500 RPM, and most of the time in street driving I shift it about 4000. But I know that if I ever needed it, there's a whole lot of power up there for the asking. Marty
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Or simply change the back plate on the pump to the one from your old waterpump. You'll see that there is one less hole on the plate from the old pump, and it will seal off the internal bypass passage. Be sure to use the gasket from the new pump so it will seal the passage to the back plate. Marty
