pflaming
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Everything posted by pflaming
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Been following along, got a suburban project going also. To paint that patina IMHO, would be one hair width away from criminal. Any car can be painted, only a very rare few survive with a patina like what you have. If you should drive it for one summer, the amount of compliments you would get would fully convince you not to paint and destroy the history of that car. My truck was in a fire that took my shop to the ground. I sanded and cleaned that fire patina and get raves every time I drive it.
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Hit serious about my engine noise. Took it to a mechanic friend, who confirmed the chain is loose, he advised it be changed. Darn, that is a bit of work. Remove hood and radiator, for openers.
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I like the serious type!
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anybody know what this whoosimawhatsit is ???
pflaming replied to thebelvedereman's topic in Off Topic (OT)
Maybe take a canister of homemade ice cream, demonstrate and make a lot of friends while having fun. -
I have a fairly good set of used tires for my suburban. After reading the above, once it's a serious driver, I will put on a new set.
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This housing is from a housing that has a removable differential backplate. Is there a race / cup remaining in this picture. This is not my housing.my axel housing does not have a removable backside
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Or make one out of PVC pipe couplings, which is what I was planning to do.
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A friend, who knows I'm working on my rear brakes loaned me this,
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". . . when the timing chain is loose, it may cause a vibration inside the motor and will be indicated by a rattling noise as the engine idles. Anytime you hear a rattle it means that something is loose and needs to be fixed before it breaks." I read this on the web. Hearing aides or not. I'm going to get to give that chain a close look. Probably best to pull the radiatorto remove the chin cover.
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I believe the bumper is stock. I believe it was more common on the upgraded models. I have that centerpiece on my Suburban.
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My truck cabin noise continues to increase. The source is the engine because it is now obviously present when the truck is parked. So several source: water pump bearing, alternater bearing, loose valve adjustment, timing chain. I removed the fan belt, the noise remains so valves or timing chain. So whichever it is, some work involved. If it's the timing chain, then repair best be NOW? If that goes out, would that ruin an engine? Valves is mostly inefficient explosions and then possibly burned valves eventually? .
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"I thought for extended freeway use I should put a 3.73 ratio in it. Well it did fairly OK till I got to the long up hill grades and the wagon with a load was way too much for the 230." I would think 2nd and 2nd in OD would deliver a great towing ratio even with a 3:73. What were you towing?
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I'm confident that a good knowledge of how to drive an OD, a 3:73,would be great pulling a small vintage trailer. I will sell my Suburban without an OD even though I have an extra one. A straight three speed is nearly impossible to ruin and I don't want any call backs.,
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Sometimes the rolling hills small mountainous areas had 4:11's when the plains had 3:73’s . Lots of switching around back then
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Is the 3:93 rear end an overdrive rear end? I have one, an extra, too lazy to check the charts. Edit, this is the chart I'm familiar Ithaca.
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$450 to Paint a Set of Wheels?!
pflaming replied to FlashBuddy's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I didn't say I didn't paint them. I just didn't sped that amount of money. -
I'm close to connecting all new brake lines, new rear cylinders, new front disc brakes and new master cylinder. In all of that there is likely to be some debris. Should I flush the system before I close it and bleed the lines? If so, how and with what?
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Does anyone have good knowledge on this model car?
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I'm 80 in September, my new cylinder parts cane yesterday but I don't recall who they cane from! It seems they cane in the mail via the US postal service. Does that mean they were mfg inUSA?
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This new axle seal, bearings project is more than I had invisioned. To install new , the old bearings had to be pressed off the axel and new ones pressed on with an hydraulic press. Got the second axle out, came out easily, pulled the rear seals, then new on bearings the axles. Installation tomorrow including new rear brake cylinder seals and remounting of backing plares, et.al.
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Dr, being done doesn't have to mean "good bye" . Unless it's issues oriented. I was banned for 30 days for a political joke, had issues with some members, I'm sure been laughed at, probably avoided, and even cyber bullied, so what? The benefits and friendships by far outweigh the missteps. In short, my wrenching days will end with the completion of the Suburban but not my association with this forum. Paul Flaming
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This question was discussed a while back and the Cherokee sway bar was considered an improvement. I got one foe my '53 Suburban but have not installed it yet. I think it needs different frame connections on the ends of the bar. Timely question for me.
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If I can't buy what I need from an established parts store, I don't need it. Makes things uncomplicated for me. Just how I am.
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I had to make a puller. I discovered that the axle would not let loose until I applied a couple of SOLID hits on the axle nut. Then I could pull it. The black collar is a PVC coupling, with notches for stud clearance. New bearings, races, and seals from local parts store, O'Neils. Cost $99.00. It's always easy once you understand. I trust these pictures will make it easy for someone else.
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How did you pull the axle?
