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ggdad1951

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Everything posted by ggdad1951

  1. ggdad1951
    Cool im just north of Andover. Would love to try and meet up. Isanti is 20 mins no prob for me to pop up.
  2. ggdad1951
    cool, if you are near Andover in your travels let me know, stop by or I can swing at some convenient spot to look at it on your trailer!
  3. ggdad1951
    Looks really solid. "Close" to where I live, Ed sent me the link, but I don't need another 1 ton! Rust, look for rust: Doors, floorboards, cab corners, by the rivets on the fenders, bed head board. Engine: as stated, spins, no cracks etc. CLEAR title. Been listed for a while. Show up with a trailer and $2500 CASH and you'll maybe have to go to 3000 and you take this MN gem home.
  4. ggdad1951
    Rear bumper, hooks on the bed, has B1 or B2 mirror arms. Nothing big, but not "stock". Like I said looks really solid!
  5. ggdad1951
    Nice 1 ton! I see a few mods but looks really solid!
  6. ggdad1951
    Bumper on. One thing I noticed is the bumper/front horn frames must be different from B1/2 to B3/4. I used a B1/2 bumper and B3/4 frame horns (or was it the other way around...can't remember anymore )and the holes don't match up....I had to drill new holes for a second top hole and bottom hole.
  7. ggdad1951
    Batteries might live in one of my "saddle tanks", other one for storage.
  8. ggdad1951
    Check out my TODD build thread for what I am doing. As stated I'm using a 1996 RAM 3500 frame, but the changes are still likely to be the same for you. You WILL have to change the firewall, and you WILL have to be VERY careful with your RAD and CAC fitment up front. I've seen it done on a B1/B2 body and frame....but things get REALLY tight up there. Feel free to message me for any hints I might be able to give....If the F size truck has the long fenders and hood (but I think those start at in the 3+ ton range) you'll be a MILE ahead in the game.
  9. ggdad1951
    I can't do 3 weeks...maybe 1 day or two!
  10. ggdad1951
    These things take time! I'm sure it will be great when you are done.
  11. ggdad1951
    yes, I took mine down to components and rebuilt the whole thing.
  12. ggdad1951
    like I said, give me a few days.....today's high is supposed to be about -5F....by next weekend we are supposed to see above 0....honestly tho, I LOVE this weather.....but I need to be able to feel my fingers to do this. I'll see how this weekend "feels"....I might just clip it off and pull it out as the engine will be replaced anyway (6bt or 7liter Cummins) and it's likely bad anyway.
  13. ggdad1951
    If they end up being as good as you hope, add them to the sticky post of vendors at the top of this forum page
  14. ggdad1951
    I plan on a double screw drive to run the tilt. This serves several purposes: it creates the tilt stop point AND will hold the front DOWN/locked. I will make a guide/hard close stop on both sides as well. From my local car club guys this seems to be enough in both directions. While I wait for my other goodies to show up I'm working on getting the rest of the front clip happy with a bumper, and hopefully the butterflies on as well. It DOES continue to get heavier, but the screw drives do come in different load ranges so I should be good.
  15. ggdad1951
    yep, all the carboard I Put back into FEF (to be as original as possible) got a dose of sealer lacquer on both sides when possible.
  16. ggdad1951
    It was cold, COLD! I used a length of wire to approximate the lengths under the cab, behind the firewall and behind the dash. Remember, that this has a LOT farther to go as it has to go from the back of the block to past mid block, then up (UP) the firewall and then back to the gauge. Once its above zero I might be able to get a letter length, but they say it will be another week! ?
  17. ggdad1951
    Near as I can tell looks to be a 60" run.
  18. ggdad1951
    Sure, you ask that when the highs are barely above 0 F right now ?....right now it's -18F ? so....I can look later today and get you a pretty good idea what is in PUMA.
  19. ggdad1951
    you don't need to remove the driveline.
  20. ggdad1951
    Yah, I have a 51 COE that is the project after the current project (see pic). Just keep watching for the badge....they show up. Just know you have to be careful of the mounting tabs to not be cracked/broken/missing. And you will likely pay a pile of money, years ago they'd go for $40....now they can climb into the hundreds. Depending on year they can be stamped steel or cast "pot metal".
  21. ggdad1951
    NICE! I eventually painted over mine I left visible.
  22. ggdad1951
    Welcome! Another COE owner! YAH! Tee center Job Rated grill piece can be found on epay....just know right now people think they are worth their weight in diamonds.
  23. ggdad1951
    are you using a phone or a laptop/desktop?
  24. ggdad1951
    any rubber type material will also be suspect unless made for ethanol fuels....FP diaphragm, flexible fuel line, etc....
  25. ggdad1951
    Got the hood center section mounts and mounted yesterday (slow day). To answer the question of the rears of the fenders vibrating/moving around: I will create some kind of, yet to be determined, keepers if needed. The frame structure I built for the tilt front is pretty rigid and keeps things in place pretty well thus far. Once things are further along I'll poke at it I need to retain it even more.
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