NiftyFifty

And then watching it leak and the pedal hit the floor...LOL Brake parts are best replaced then serviced...even wheel cylinders I always just go new, less risk contaminating a fresh set of shoes

RockAuto sells new MC’s still for a good price, I would never consider rebuilding an old one, when new is available

If you buy another kit now, all you can use is the bearings, no guarantee the pins are exact, so your buying somewhat expensive bearings, and I can't imagine finding individual ones the correct size sold separate

I just want to be clear on something...you cannot buy the new parts, until you have already taken apart the truck and measured your pins, as their are different sizes, and you can't interchange them. I thought someone had put up a detailed thread on changing? Anywho....yes..cup, steel washer, brass thrust washer and then steel washer and cup, with good quality grease in between IMO, and the thin shim under all of that, only if needed of course. They should be almost hard to turn to start with, and few turns under pressure and that will all go away, but if it's loose and still wiggles after install, then more shims are needed.

How do you know it won't come the same way? The kit you have is easy to put together..is it as good..maybe not..but unless your planning this to be a daily driver at high speeds or a lot of in town running around and turns...you'd likely never know the difference

Sorry, mine is roller bearing...

Can you send me a picture of your actual set...those pictures don’t show me what I want to see, but looks just like the Rare Parts set I got

He’s here in Canada...we get fleeced shipping across the line, that’s why I pick all of my parts up across the border, but they don’t like you crossing back with anything. The washer bearing set up is likely just fine if it’s a Moog product, it’s just flat/bearing washer/flat for install, if it’s the kind I’m thinking of.

Early to mid 90’s Jeep Cherokee and Jeep YJ are typically the best options

Can go either way honestly, but pounding down is sure a lot easier and safer

I gave you the right one, gasket measures 4.5” outside to outside...I just can’t post the pic as it’s too big. I have one sitting on my table, all I have ever used in mine

51011 should be too big, I used those for my Massey tractors and wouldn’t fit properly in the canister

I run a Wix 51071, you may want to try it or compare it

It sounds like your getting the wrong filter if the gasket is wrong?? I’ve never changed the gasket in the top bolt..I never knew it had one, mine has a heavy spring.

The pictures are mostly generic, google the part number and see if you get something from the actual moog site

It was more work, but I cut out the whole support and installed power leather bucket seats and a centre console, about the only bench seat you will likely find to fit will be mini van or suv, I think a new 1/2 ton bench would be too wide

Direct fit except it hits the hood...LOL

Did you or previous owner put in a new rad? I got one from American Rad and I knew it would be wrong for my Canadian truck, and they didn't disappoint, but when I matched up everything to the original spec, that's exactly what I got...hood resting on the overflow tube. I thought rather then messing with the all new mounting brackets I built for a second time, I just cut my tube off where the hood was resting, and cut it at the filler and soldered in a new tube exiting on the drivers side. I use some foam chunks between the hood and the rad to ensure they couldn't rub in future, but I have yet to find a good hood for one of these trucks...gull wing a great style, but takes a lot of abuse

There supposed to be a bolt there, no pin...if you removed the bolt, you need a lot of heat, penetrating oil and a really big hammer

I couldn’t remove my flywheel bolts on mine, so I had to pull it as a unit and was easier then trying to do that on my back. You do need to pull the floor panels now that I recall...the pedals do need to come out. It’s not a fun job no matter what.

Hey Dan, 10x easier to pull the whole front sheet metal, and as a unit as Don mentioned and remove the rad cradle with a few more bolts. The transmission comes out and then you pull the whole motor and bell housing unit as one, you will see the bolts that mount the bell housing to the actual rear engine mounts. From there it’s all pretty straight toward

Rockauto sells pretty much everything you should need, with exception of a new timing gear/chain set. I find them a lot cheaper then buying from specialty stores and usually better brand parts. I would first find out how good/bad the 218 is at whoever you plan to do your machine work.

IMO the NOS ones can be much better quality then aftermarket at this stage, with such low demand. I got mine off eBay for 1/2 the price the other dealers were asking, and a good quality brand name.

I had some tiny pin holes in my running boards, put tape on the top side and really lathered on Por 15...stuff is like a rock..even missed a dent, so I had to hammer it, thinking I would destroy the coating...never hurt it, hardly even see where I used the hammer. I now use Por 15 even as a patch filler, I had some spots in the rear trunk on my 67 Monaco that needed patching and I wasn’t set up before to cut and weld in new metal, so I paint on a think coating of Por 15, then use fibreglass matt, and another heavy coat of Por and it’s way harder then the typical resin IMO. I would never paint or coat a frame again with anything but, and I call BS on the sun aspect...unless it’s in direct heat of day sunlight, I see no breakdown of anything I’ve coated with it.

I'd be amazed if it worked with the stock gauge....I tried that and couldn't get one to work, so I hid an aftermarket gauge up in the corner by window shade