NiftyFifty

To be honest, the shop I used to work at quit using all carter pumps…nothing but trouble. Airtex seem to be on for the price point

Maybe with positive ground he felt there were more issues? Most likely tho it’s because very shortly in winter and salt they began to green and look bad. A battery cable is shielded of course, and looks a little nicer, but should be fairly heavy

I would actually say that pump puts out too much pressure for a single carb, you only need a 2-4lb pump or you definitely need to install a fuel pressure regulator. I ran an electric from day one in my truck, and yes lots of good help above, in regards to a good pre filter and also make sure the pump is as close to the tank as possible, as the like to push, not pull. I did run just a straight key on with a fuse, so it did run constantly in the on position, but I was 12 volt and had a ignition with an accessory setting to run anything I desired without the pump going, but your ideas are a safer way to go.

Should just be the mounting screw to the right and the terminal screw, but it’s been so long I forget now too, definitely something you can do without removing the dist.

Delco 45R would be my choice, or the same in NGK. Sadly autolite plugs have gone to being made cheaply, like champion and I quit using them.

Matching old and faded paint will be virtually impossible, even the sheen will be hard to match unless you spray and buff the entire truck later after it’s cured. If you want everything matching I’m afraid the only option is to respray the entire truck, and matching the the old colour could be very difficult, 22 years ago you may have used a true enamel paint, now it’s likely a different formulation so that itself can lay down different.

24” Walleye on yesterday’s outing…lol but the flathead only gets to cook marshmallows and hotdogs ?

Hey Guys, Well I was feeling bad and had an urge to build something to remember my truck by, and I’ve wanted a propane fire table at the lake, so I built this little beauty…218 flathead fire breather. I figure like my truck is a complete custom and you aren’t likely to see one like it. One thing that did anger me in this build, in all my time and multiple past engines I never found a road draft tube bypass kit, or the special oil filler neck with the collection canister on it to dump the breather oil…this engine had it all, and would have saved a lot of under body oiling on my truck. enjoy and take care guys!

Well it was a bitter sweet day today, I had listed my truck thinking it would take awhile to sell, but I had someone here 12 hours later and they took it away today. It was time for a new adventure and that meant a lot near the lake and a trailer to go on it, so the other toys had to go. I just wanted to thank everyone here for the years of knowledge and help and debate and general discussion, it was crucial to my success with the truck, and I hope in that time I also helped out a few other members. I don’t see myself trolling here much anymore, I’m thinking that might be a downer for me, but I’m sure once in a blue moon I’ll stop by thanks! niftyfifty...aka Shane

The coolant and heat will eat that paint and bondo up in no time, I would clean that all off and either put a layer of JB weld or similar heat and chemical resistant epoxy. Best is a new pump, better is as JBNeal posted, last is my idea, but please don’t run it your way, it could cause a lot of issues

Should get that scanned and offer the image up, likely safe as long as you didn’t sell it

here’s what I did on mine

You may want to pull the bell housing with the engine, I know on mine I couldn’t get the flywheel off without a pile of difficulty from underneath, so I pulled it as one, less the transmission, but yes, those 4 bolts come out and it will definitely go. on the trucks it’s way easier to pull the front grill and fenders off to remove, no way you’re pulling that engine straight up with the hood removed

I always just sharpen a good chisel and just cut them down one side, then pry them out, it not like you need to save them, just be mindful not to cut into the actual axle

its the vibration over time that will tell, but my post is based more on the guys just trying to stick new studs on, which I tried and failed with JB and epoxies

JB weld just doesn’t seem to cut it, I’ve done the same as many on here, but what I do think would work is auto body panel glue, but it’s around $60-$80 a tube and most need a special 2 plunger gun to work, but once it’s on, it’s not coming from off again

I’m ok with FelPro head gaskets, but in my opinion the spray copper gasket sealer is a must on these old trucks, I lost 2 gaskets in a row and my block was decked and head planed, so everything should be true, but as soon as I put the spray on I’ve been good

I haven’t seen a set that didn’t need reaming, so I’d say very likely

I’ve done it and worked great, but on yours I’d recommend some heat then cook it with penetrating oil

Lots of auto parts stores will rent you or loan out ball joint presses, it’s a really beefy c clamp with an open bottom, that’s what I used last time, but in some cases the axle has to come out and go into a hydraulic press

He’s a dealer for Rare Parts, be cheaper to get it straight out of the US from them, but I have purchased from Norm as I’m in Canada

I see a couple of options under the bigger motors and my 1 ton was the 11/16” x 18 pitch thread so the 1 1/2 might be the same

I actually got mine from Moog off RockAuto, but supplies may be getting tighter. As for king pins, RockAuto has those too, but I had to get mine from RareParts, as the axle I used was the odd ball one.

In my experience I wish I could go back and do exactly what you’re pondering, I started my truck with the idea it would just be for short tours, but that gets old soon and once I started investing money in switching to disc brakes and upgraded master cyl and later on rack and pinion steering and many other upgrades like a 251 with lots of go faster parts I still have a truck that isn’t comfortable for real long trips and although I can cruise highway speeds, at 70mph the old leaf spring suspension wasn’t really made for that. If you want a comfortable long distance cruiser then I would recommend the IFS and a reasonable V8, others may disagree, but I’m only going on my personal truck and experience

Drums get pretty hot, I’d recommend VHT or Por-15, I used it on my 67 Monaco and it’s still like the day I painted it 3 years ago