NiftyFifty

Por15 is the best way to go, seal that metal and give it a hard coat that won’t just wear off like paint.

Hey everyone, Hope its ok to post this here, but I'm one of the volunteers and planners for this summers upcoming SuperRun car show, which only happens every three years in Brandon Manitoba and I just wanted to post a link to the website in hopes we can get some more of our northern US friends and even fellow Canadians out to support the show. This is a great event and we are a non-profit organization, so any funds over our expenses will be used for the next show in 2022, or donated to charity if things should change in that time. thanks again for the space and hope to see you there! www.superrunbrandon.com

I just used a bit of RTV black on mine then installed it...good ever since, gasket maker wouldn’t likely be messy and run out a bit...it likes to be squeezed under pressure to dry

5/16 steel line is the OD, 5/16 rubber line is ID, and yes I can’t imagine it’s 1/8th, possibly a 1/4 ID but 1/8th would never run the truck properly, and 1/4” would be suspect for proper flow as well. Should be 5/16 steel from tank to just before carb, then a short chunk of 5/16 ID rubber.

I didn’t see any 6 lug drums? I would still go disc...and for real drivability I would swap out the rear diff too...4:10 gearing is zero fun with a 3 or 4 speed non syncro

I had the same plans...just a “runner” not a driver...but that has changed so many times, and if I could do it all over again I would have done IFS and a V8 swap, but it never hurts to upgrade parts like the brakes and suspension, because if you do ever do a power upgrade or a diff swap or T5 trans conversion you have to have the ability to stop and control it. good luck on your build!

Hard brake twice in a minute and we’ll talk again ??

What is the difference in 48-50 to 51 doors? My 50 and 51 had identical doors from my recollection. Canadian models were D’s up here, mine is a D under my model plate and in the original Canadian owners manual.

I can’t agree with Jeff...Disc are 99 out of a 100x better then drum when installed and the proper master and proportioning valve. I did this exact swap in my 1 ton, took a 1/2 ton axle and swapped right in to use the Rusty Hope brake kit. You also can’t buy new drums if needed for 1 ton, so if they are past the wear limit your on the hunt for good used, also you can only get shoes religned, not new. Find a new axle and get your project under way!

Plugged!!! Judging by that picture that’s an understatement LOL When I pulled my oil pan on my original 218 it looked like tar, and had to scrape the “oil” out with a puddy knife

Most times it was flaws with the actual headers, or warpage after a few heat cycles that caused gasket failures, and them to go this route. Maybe be different if they made a really heavy copper set for these trucks, but as far as I know, stock is only option and rtv seems to work better.

I’ve had my headers on a couple years now and instead of gaskets I used a very liberal application of Ultra Copper rtv, I put them on and just hand tightened the bolts, then came back 24 hours later and tightened them down. I didn’t come up with this, I’ve got numerous friends that run this way after many gasket failures over the years and learned from them.

Everyone has their own ways, but I would never use grease on todays paper gaskets, they are sometimes poor enough without the grease swelling them and having possible premature failure. the only gasket that need extra help are the oil pan, which I use permatex aviation gasket maker on pan side only, then ultra black where the end caps meeting the sides chain case cover- av gasket maker both on gasket and on seal before I drive into the cover water pump- just a few small dabs of gasket maker to hold gasket for install head gasket- permatex copper high heat gasket spray on both sides on gasket (follow instructions on can) intake shoukd need nothing unless its pitted, exhaust same thing, unless your installing headers hope that helps

100% agree...Marvel Mystery was what brought my rebuild back to life as well. I had all new guides/valves, pistons and rings and after the truck sat for a year during some body and interior modifications, I lost almost all my compression...I let it soak for a few days with MM, then ran some down the carb, in the fuel and in the oil...no more issues and back to 120-130 psi hot on all cyl’s.

I believe it’s basically just a dampener for the throttle rod, as well as being a spacer so it can’t slide back through the block on the linkage

I just got 6 new pistons from Northern Auto Parts, they fit the rods and no other issues. I did all my valves/seats, but I guess I never paid attention to the w/wo, I just got all new parts and dropped the block off for machining and the new cam bearings, and they never said any issues. My block came from a Massey Harris combine.

Also can have different rings and pistons, as I found out the hard way building my 251IND, but everything else was the same

Sorry, my mistake, but still not the same as 1 ton so you can’t utilize the original rims

The Rusty Hope kit forces you into 4 1/4 bolt pattern in the front, no option to keep the original 1 ton bolt pattern as far as I know, and the 4 1/4 is stock dodge 1/2 ton spec for those years.

Just get a 1/2 ton axle or spindles, that’s what I did on my 1 ton, was cheaper then the machining costs, and a direct bolt in.

FelPro just needs an out if the gasket fails and you used anything on it. These engines have imperfections and nobody is about to yank and disassemble the engine for a plaining when a little copper spray will do the trick. These flatheads ads were always tough on head gaskets, and if you do power improvements it can be a little worse. Spray it up, put a new gasket in and enjoy the road. Also get new head bolts from Summit if you haven’t already...they do stretch

Use the copper spray on every surface, that seems to have extended the periods between head gasket changes for me, and yes, re-torque after a couple of heating and cooling sessions

It’s been 8 years now, so hard to remember what it all looks like, but the original just uses the thickness of the mount, so no reason the new one couldn’t, but as I recall it would be near impossible to drill it out in the truck properly.

Plastic is just fine in that location, and smaller and easy to find

I didn't gut anything on my master cylinder when I did my swap, Just be sure to read all the way through