NiftyFifty

I think 7/16 and 1/2 is right, as for a king pin reamer...do yourself a huge favour, get a machine shop to do your bushings, they can make a much nicer and tighter clearance and the costs aren't that bad, and if you do it once, very likely never do it again. A table saw in Manitoba shouldn't be any issues...Canadian tire usually puts them on for $100-150 a couple times a year, but a skill saw is much easier for cutting floor boards.

No metric wrenches needed until late 60’s I believe...your safe with your standard set

http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665978 I'm more of a fan of the complete distb swap, it is more money, but I have a better chance getting a replacement part from a jobber if I break down on the road, as it's all S10 2.8L parts. You can also google Moose headers if you want true dual exhaust, he builds them when ordered..decent price..just ride him that your looking for a nice clean set of headers..mine had a lot of welding slag on the, and one hole I had to end up widening to make fit...but not as many options for the 25" blocks compared to the 23's

I just used my plain mastercraft set from Ctire...no matter what you have it's a bear of a job. IMO...if I was to do it again, I would heat up the engine and then shut it off and adjust...this adjusting while running stuff is for the birds...not to mention tough on your feeler gauge set.

There are dual carb set ups available, and dual exhaust headers, electronic ignition and shaving the head just a bit can help, but remember that at the end of the day, it’s still a low hp flathead and will most likely never compare to a later V8 or even V6.

Well I got everything hooked up today and figured it was time for a test run....fired right up, sat on high idle perfectly, then after a few minutes I kicked it down and idles at about 7-800rpm. When you stomp on it no real hesitation, revs right up. I only wish I could actually take it for a drive, but I would say other then fine tuning once it hits the road, this seems like it’s going to work. So $88 US for the Carb, about $50 for the adapter and a bit of time...I lost more then that at the hockey game last weekend.

If the dot inspection is like our safety, there is no need to check that....you don't even pull the Cali person unless you can measure the pads. End of the day, unless your going to drill a new hole in the actual spindle, drilling out a new nut is no safer, and wouldn't allow for any kind of fine tuning for bearing set. If you don't run this kit, it doesn't matter to you...seems to be a lot of us that do, and I would imagine a mass majority are running the nut backwards...I haven't had issues or heard of any, might not be exactly right, but in reality the nut still can't turn, so it's not really any less safe

Take them both out and measure ...never know what could have happened in 60+ years.

Size...mine were a bit larger in diameter then the ones offered by RockAuto...likely more limited use, or could be a more used in Canadian production then US.

Rockauto does carry some, but mine were the odd ball size, so they don't carry them. MidCanada is a rare parts dealer, so he can get them, but they were cheaper on eBay, so I went that way. Use a good digital caliber to measure your pins...the two options are pretty close

I ordered them off eBay from a rareparts.com dealer...they have pretty good quality stuff, same guys I had to get my 67 Monaco lower ball joints from...only suppliers

Same with the ones I just did...two different pins in my axle...same size, but different grooves for the retaining bolt. The one took lots of heat and piles of beating...the other one took about 2 good whacks and sailed out and hit the floor.

There are two options for king pins, I found that just a little while ago, as I unfortunately have the more expensive set and ordered them from rare parts 5.37 x .795 5.37 x .873

My adapter being for a Ford carb looks like the one I’ve attached, it looks strange from the bottom side, but actually tapers quite nicely on the top/inside. If a single can feed three, then a double should be able to feed it better as long as it isn’t restricted which it isn’t IMO with this plate

Too late, already run a T5 and a 3:55 rear Cherokee diff.......don't come back with power steering...I have that already too! LOL

At least you weren’t caught baking your freshly painted rims...but my buddies wife got him back...she cleaned his polished side mouldings with oven degreaser to help...ate all the anodized off them LOL

I’m already 12volt with the Langdons electronic distributor, and running full dual exhaust and headers. My buddy is a carburetor guru, about the only one left around here actually, so I’m pretty confident I can make this work. I was hoping if I got this together I could sneak out for a drive, as it’s beem so nice here and little to no snow...until Sunday...now I’m in snow clearing mode with close to a foot in my yard, and basically pure ice underneath the snow from rain mix that hit before the snow. Maybe this coming Sunday I’ll get to the fire up point...don’t have much left to do now

The crankshaft gear is a lot tougher to install then the pulley, that likely would strip your bolt...one way if your stuck is to heat the gear up (not with a cutting torch FYI) and then quickly place on, lightly tap with a hammer to start and then use the bolt before cool down. If your pulley stripped the bolt, then I would investigate if it has a burr or ridge on it making install difficult...you should be able to push it by hand about 1/4 of the way and I again lightly tap to get it about 1/2 way on and then use my bolt...as I say, did it twice a week ago, as I messed up and installed pulley before the front engine mount, and that won't work when everything is in the truck.

The carb adapter does "blend" the two into one, but somewhat my fear as well. When I talked to Langdons about their conversion he had good things to say, but I wasn't willing to try this for $400 and fail...I'm in for under $200 and I can accept that if it fails.

Nowhere near running yet, have to build a new throttle rod and work out the vacuum lines this week. i didn’t open up the hole, the carb adapter matches the stock hole, so not much point expanding the manifold.

With headers last year, and always thinking I have the wrong size carb on my truck, I thought I would try an upgrade. Got it mounted in the right position today, later in the week I’ll get it hooked up and try. It’s a ford style 2100 carb same as an auto lite or basically a holly, so lots of options for jetting. It was $88 brand new on eBay...I’ve spent and wasted money in a lot dumber spots.

The original engine was a 218, I run a 265 now, with a few upgrades, but same crank pulley bolt.

I just had my pulley off twice last week and re-installed both times with the crank bolt...maybe the 265 long block has a bigger heavier bolt that's longer...however it's the same one as my 218, and has the original "arms" for where the hand crank would grab on it, unlike the one pictured above.

That’s what I was on the hunt for Don, but couldn’t find. The one my friend now has is that same style but maybe a bit beefier.

Nobody touching split ring wheels up here, I sold a couple rims to another member and I tried two or three shops..nobody would even remove the old tires...which is just stupid, because no danger on removal end, but they all said they are banned from working on them. I imagine every state or even tire shop down there sets their own rules..but if there was a solid rim option, I would want it over the ring style.