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Everything posted by Merle Coggins
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dodge truck flathead wires Spark plug wires
Merle Coggins replied to Max1955's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I agree with Jeremiah. I've always 'cut to length' plug wire kits. Mine have 90 degree boots for the spark plug ends. Without the distributor ends attached I could feed the wired through the tubes on the coil bracket then cut to a suitable length before crimping the ends on. My first set was a 'Universal 6 Cylinder' set from Farm & Fleet. And the Pertronix set I replaced them with were similar. -
There are no dust caps for the rear axle like up front. The caps on the front hubs retain the bearing grease and keep the nasties out. At the rear the bearings and grease are back behind the brakes and protected by seals. The exposed hub retaining nut doesn't need any protection. The hub caps/wheel covers just cover it up to make it look pretty.
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Chrome trim color details
Merle Coggins replied to jpartington's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Here's a red painted badge on my green truck. Yes, I know I need to touch it up again. You can also see the red on the hub caps. -
The temp sender port should be in the head, not the block. And I’ve never heard of a head without a temp sender port. Is it an aftermarket head?
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Good advice above. All I wanted to add is that you may have just noticed this leak after having the car on jack stands if only the rear was jacked up for some time. This would have changed the pinion angle enough for more oil to flow against the seal. Sitting flat on the ground there may not be much oil against the seal. So, you may want to check your fluid level for now, and top up if necessary. Then worry about changing the pinion seal once you have other things sorted out. It's minor for now. Just keep an eye on it and keep the diff full of oil. It'll be a project for next winter.
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I had one that the spring fit loose. The original spring was missing as the fulcrum pin had come out of the pump and I nearly lost the arm. They informed me that it would be OK as once it is installed the spring will be compressed and will stay in place. The diaphragms have always been spot on though. Maybe you got the wrong kit? How did you identify the pump to know which kit to get?
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Chrome trim color details
Merle Coggins replied to jpartington's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I got a small bottle of touch up paint from the parts store. They come with a small brush that is handy to apply the paint. It is chipping off in a few spots now, but it's easy enough to touch up again. For the hub caps I found it easier to tape off what shouldn't be red and paint the rest with a spray can. -
It gets easier over time. Toe on the starter pedal, heal on the gas pedal.
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When it wouldn't start did you try giving a bit of throttle? Your symptom very much resembles the normal hot start issue caused by fuel peculation in the carburetor. This causes a flooding issue. Usually giving 1/4 to 1/2 throttle while cranking will get it fired up. I have to wonder if the fuel pump swap is just a coincidence of the time delay. Your starting attempts would have brought in some air, but not enough to over come the over rich condition in the manifold. Then another pause while you tinker around... Then upon the next try more gas has evaporated inside the manifold and it will now start. A properly operating carburetor would allow the engine to start and run for several seconds on the gas in the float bowl, even if the pump wasn't pumping.
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Several years ago my girlfriend at the time was with me at a WPC meet. She was helping me clean up the truck for the car show and was getting way more detailed than I would on certain things. I kept saying, "It ain't no show vehicle." Her reply sticks with me to this day, even though she didn't. She said, "Then why are you putting it into a show?" It doesn't have to be a "show car" to enjoy it and show it off whenever possible.
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'Cept that my truck was from Iowa... So it would be a Hawkeye special. But thanks for saying he's "special". ?
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So apparently the ignition switch and door lock were changed out some time during my truck’s life. What the switch and lock were originally meant for may never be known. We have determined that they are not correct for a B-series truck. The ignition switch does not have a crank position, just accessory, off, and run positions. This makes me think it’s not for later model stuff. Maybe aftermarket replacements?
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As I mentioned earlier, I've tried the flat backed Hurd type keys in the past and they didn't work with my truck. So, since I'm working from home these days I had an opportunity to dash out to the garage and take a close look at my locks. I can clearly see the ridge on both sides that require the keys I have with grooves on both sides. Sorry, the camera had a hard time focusing up that close. So if someone did change out the ign. switch to this style they also changed out the door lock to match it. Seems like a lot of trouble for a farm truck that likely spend most of its life in a machine shed.
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I have one key for both the ignition and door. So again I wonder if my switch and lock were replaced at one time, since my keys and switch look completely different.
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Thanks Rob, that is interesting. As Mark pointed out, I also have this question posted on the FB group. It seems all that have posted there have the Hurd type key. This key is shorter than mine and is smooth on the back side. My keys have a dual groove on the side shown and a single groove along the back side. I got a set of the Hurd type keys at one time and they wouldn't work with my ignition switch. That's when I kept searching and found the DPCD keys that did work for me. I've checked my parts book and it only shows 1 ignition switch part number for all B-series trucks, and 1 p/n for the key blanks too. This makes me wonder if my ignition switch had been changed at one point in time. But if that were the case why would my key still work in the door lock, unless that was also replaced with a matching lock. Seems unlikely. Here are a couple examples from the FB group. These seem to be similar to what I tend to see from other's trucks. The one that's more open at the top is interesting. He states that he believes this to be original and has the Dealer key number tag to go with them.
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Does anyone have an original key for their truck? I’d like to see what an original looks like. When I got my truck it came with one key and it was an obvious duplicate, as it is a Taylor key blank. One day, after I had the truck back on the road, I stopped at a local locksmith to see if they could make me a spare. They had 2 blanks in stock that would work. They have the Chrysler Pentstar, and remind me of a ‘60’s and ‘70’s trunk key. I bought them both and had them cut. They worked fine for a few years, at which time I found some DPCD key blanks on eBay that looked correct. I asked my local hardware store to cut them for me and they have been my current key set. But I still wonder what an original key would look like. It seems that most that I see are a brass color.
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It shows your Rear Axle is 4.3, or 4.3:1 gear ratio. Color code 3, but I don't know what color that would be. Mine shows color code 5 and my truck was green (still is).
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The frames are considerably different. I'm sure it could be done. It would probably be similar to putting the body onto any later model frame. Many modifications would be required. Moderators, could you move this to the truck forum for him?
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It seems that many of us have had that happen to modern replacement pumps. This is why I will always recommend rebuilding your old one with a kit from Then and Now Automotive. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ Their kits have parts compatible with modern fuels and the fulcrum pin has circlips to retain the pin. I've been running my rebuilt pump for many years without an issue. My "new" pump lasted about a year before the pin came out. Luckily I had rebuilt my original pump with one of their kits and had it stashed under the seat. A roadside fix got be up and running again. That "new" one is now rebuilt with a kit and sits as the spare.
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John H, I believe you are right. I believe the 1/2 ton trucks have 10" brakes up front and 11" in the rear. 3/4 tonners are 11" all around.
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The 1/2 ton trucks have straight sides as it is a narrower bed. 3/4 and 1 ton beds have fender wells. I had some pieces of plywood that I used to make up templates. I marked them out and trimmed them to fit before using them as templates. I even used them as temporary bed installation while I was getting the real wood ready.,
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Also, the 3/4 ton trucks have a 5” bolt pattern and the 1/2 ton trucks have a 4-1/2” bolt pattern. It sounds like you got 1/2 ton drums. They’re not going to work with your 3/4 ton truck without several modifications.
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Differential - Looking for a Warm Fuzzy
Merle Coggins replied to Bdblazer1978's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Sounds like a solid plan -