Dodgeb4ya

Excellent Job!!!!

Just a bunch of old men bickering! Jesus.........BTW- I sure like my OE drum cars! Bob

Great pictures Jon! Looks like you had good weather too! Bob

The 1946-48 chryslers used wheels with clips. Windsor 6 cyl rims generally were 15 X 5-1/2" rims with a 4-1/2" bolt pattern and the 8 cylinder cars used a larger 5" bolt pattern and hole. The Saratoga/NewYorker 8 cyl. rim is a 15 X 6 or 6-1/2" if a Crown Imperial with clips too but not what Pete needs. I'd be looking for any 1946-52 Chrysler windsor wheel with clips.They should be 5-1/2" width. Bob

They show up on ebay as all of these were purchased of of ebay. Watch out though-1951 and 1952 NewYorker headlamp doors look the same as 1953 Windsor and NewYorker HL doors. For your car the original part# is 1383629 for the passenger Right headlamp door,This # is out of the 1953 and prior MoPar parts book. You need to pull yours and check for the part# on the back side of the HL door. I had to buy all of these just to get two good ones that were not slightly damaged crushed in some way that fit the fender and into the moulding perfectly. You can't tell if it will fit properly until you put it on your car! A lot of curves on these HL doors! Bob

The P-8 transmission case and gears is the same- top loader or column shift. . The column shift transmission top cover-- late 1939 has the shifting mechanism built into it-kinda like the B series dodge trucks. This cover uses a cable operated detent and a regular shift rod/lever out the side of the cover too. Bob

They must have broken open the OD extension case to rebuild the rear 1/2. Bob

Thiose are great oil pressure numbers-like for a new engine!

Wow, and Mikey has it and none of us do:mad:

This "MoPar" embossed fire Extinguisher issue has been mentioned before. This is what a NOS one looks like complete with box and bracket. They are very rare to say the least! Bob

There were after market guards and custom built ones of course. Never have seen one with a "D" in the center in any old literature or in person myself. Would look nice though. If I wanted one I'd make it-easy enough to fab up if you do much welding. Just a thought. Bob

Frank Mitchell -AMS- has a NOS one for sale I think it's only $450.00 too.

I just did a 1950 Windsor-was running hot too-full of sludge...Took the engine out for repairs, some pics. Notice the brass 1-5/8" were doubled up at the rear of block. I like to use brass as replacements myself. You should clean the soft plug machined bore carefully-sometimes it will be pitted and JB weld can be used to permanately seal a pitted recess bore for perfect leak free results. Bob

Now thats a really cool picture and great detail. I like the neon "JoB Rated" sign too! Thanks for posting this! Bob

A smokin tough day in the Dodge for this poor guy...

And here are a few different ones...

I just pulled this distributor oiler out of a old P26 core motor. You can carefully remove the oiler cap separately. The main part into the distributor is really quite thick steel tube and I really tightened the vise grips on it to remove it-it didn't crush at all as you can see.

1951 to 53 Imperial only.

You might want to go to your local welding supply store and talk to them about the 110 volt welders. Your choice depends on what you are most likely going to weld. You will really should get a C25/75 welding gas bottle for use with your new welding machine too. Mig welding with gas is much easier on 1/4" and thinner metals than flux core wire- no chipping slag either-cleaner welds too. And of course more money too. Something like a millermatic 135 machine is probably a good choice too-but check around there are a lot of choices out there-just stay away from Chinese machines! I am not sure where the Eastwood 135 amp machine is made.Also depending on how much you might use the machine you will need to replace the contact tips/ liner and drive rolls. Not often but they do wear out and can cause poor welds if not changed when necessary. Something to think about. I see this machine is only a 20% duty cycle-thats wimpy! 2 minutes out of 10 at 135 amps. I run a Miller XMT Inverter machine-I like to weld a lot! Bob

A couple more pics- wedging pot metal handle off square shaft-need to use a vise. I'm sure others have different ways that work too. Shown are some other tools Imade for doing these handle repairs-crimper and another press tool.

Thought I'd show how I take apart the MoPar outer door handles for repairs like changing square shafts, removal of escutcheons for plating ect. To swap out the square handle shafts say if the wrong length-2 or 4 door, I use a vise and a 12" cresent wrench for leverage and wedge the pot metal handle right off the shaft. I use a protective washer with a same size square hole to fit the shaft and prevent damage to the soft pot metal handle. Then to install a new shaft tap it right into the handle while just holding the pot metal handle firmly. Sometimes I use JB weld if necessary. To remove the outer door handle eschutcheons use good gripping (like new)vise grips and grab the tubular crimped (crimped on 2 sides) retaining collar firmly and rotate/twist the retainer 90 degree's back and forth while pulling it straight off. It will come off with out damage if the vise grips grab into the collar with sharp jaws- don't over tighten the vise grips! Underneath this retainer is a wavy washer to keep tension on the outer door handle/escutcheon so it doesn't rattle-don't lose it. To reassemble this retainer on the Door handle I use a piece of tube 2" long and 5/8" ID that just fits over the retaining collar and pushes up against the flared part of the retaining collar. I like to use "JB Weld" adhesive on the collar then align up the 2 depressed dimples in the collar with the depressions in the handle, Tap the retaining collar down with the 2" long installing tube tool as far as easily possible. Then the retaining collar still has to be forced down just enough more to put constant firm presure against the wavy washer to keep the door handle/escutcheon tight and rattle free in service. To do this and keep strong holding down pressure against this retainer while the JB Weld sets up, I wedge the 2" tube tool tight by forcing the tapered cresent wrench jaws between the pressing tube and vise grips set at the proper spot on the square handle shaft- the handle shaft must be tight in the handle. I also sometimes attempt to re-depress the 2 indentations but found that JB Weld is the best way to keep the retainer in place and tight. Let it set overnight. Always a perfect factory tight rattle free door handle! Bob

Whoopsie-never mind-does not apply to lock cylinder repairs!

Just tap on the square end of the shaft to force it out of the tubular retainer. There are 2 dimpled depressions on that tubular retainer. Rotate the retainer 90 degrees first if you can get at it, That will make it easier for the handle to come apart easier. Bob

I just got to thinkin- remembering, that I parted out a 52 Saratoga with that same heater system in it a few years back! Here is part of what it looks like... Bob

If it sticks down ony a couple of inches-Really lube up the clutch linkage well 1st. If that doesn't fix the problem then check for excessively worn clutch rod linkage pivot pins and pivot holes then onto improperly adjusted over center spring--You really need to to read about this in the factory shop manual.