Dodgeb4ya

Do your drums have the spring wrapped around the outer diameter of the drums? The springs purpose is to absorb brake noise. Most of the 12" drums on the Chryslers have the springs installed. If you don't have them they will be hard to find individually. They do work though! I always "Arc" the shoes to fit the drums. Your shoes will wear in to fit the drums and should quiet up. It will probably take a couple thousand miles though- my best guess. Bob

That would be 1954. No special badges- just the model emblems like H, HH, J, T ect. up on the front fenders.

Pictures of the problem issue would be good and what does the Model tag say?. I have some new and used PTO's for my Dodges and maybe I could look at them to help you out- but there are several models...forward/reverse, 2 speed forward....single speed one way ect ect. Hank, this picture is a optional PTO (Power Take Off) gearbow attached to the trans for operating auxillary equipment like a dump bed pump as Gene is wanting to do. The PTO turns a small driveshaft hooked to the accessory equipment. Bob

Looks like the License plate says Kansas!

Last year for the flathead-1959 Savoy! Nice unit!

Here are some pics of a 1958 Plym head and how I got my 51 Plym temp sender into the head back in 68 when just a kid-no idea what to do so I brazed the bushing into the head core plug and pounded the assembly into the head-still works fine to this day! Today I would just drill and tap it larger-the correct way! Also for reference, pics of the up to 1954 or 55 head bushing and sender bulb and nut. Bob

12 volt cars use a 1/4" NPT electric sender. No bushing reducer used.

The bulb also needs to protrude all the way into the head for proper temp readings. Also you should take the bushing you are going to use so the machinist can tap to fit for correct thread depth/fitting. Bob

The plain simple answer is the thread size is 1/2" NPT. NPH National Pipe Thread. Bob

They are bent as shown in the ad. Bob

Right on Rich!

At least no one is arguing---yet!

I think the polarity changes depending on star washer being put on the top or bottom of the cable.

Thats what I'd try.

I have done a few oddball industrial engine jobs-car to truck-truck to car -forklift ect. I don't think you will have a problem. Just put it together,make sure it all fits and the starter cranks it over before putting the engine/bell housing/flywheel and clutch back in the car. Have never had to do any major modifications. Just get the proper flywheel bolts installed correctly for your application. Bob

I know over in eastern Washington a wrecking yard I have been to had those 5 stud side ring wheels. It's the rim width you need to watch for. These rims were of course used on Fords/Studie's and Internationals and a lot more makes. I really like the look of the factory side ring/wheel combo (Split Rim) as used on our bigger Dodge trucks-Silver rim edge and black wheel. I mount my own-must be rust free and use a loader bucket or chain when mounting for safety. Done a ton of them. Pic of one of my trucks split rim wheels. Bob

That is one beautiful H-Duty ground cable with the correct (+) polarity head bolt! Nice job!

Whats wrong with your stock split rims? Are they rusty?

Sorry guys--I'm a 52 Plym owner and they use the dipstick tube. As do all my Chryslers and trucks. The P-15's, and earlier cars, and I have worked on enough of them- I guess use the short fatter dipstick shoved right down the hole in the block. My age and dementia is showing. Just can't remember all of it anymore! Sorry for any confusion. Bob

I missed that- Yea just a short dipstick on the early cars. Pic of a 1939 Plym engine and short DS.

Just posting some more info as the heat riser passage issue was mentioned. Might be of help to others.

It usually takes quite a few miles to plug up the intake manifold heat riser passage. Is there even a heat riser on the exhaust manifold to direct the heat up through the passage? To check the crossover passage if you do have a properly operating heat riser, start the engine up and run it at a fast idle and after 2-4 minutes you should be able to feel the intake get warm at the base of the carb. If it stays cold and the carb base feels really cold and there is iceing at the carb base you have no heat to the base of the carb. A lot of the 318/360's used a 2" flex heat tube off the exhaust manifold to supply hot air into the air cleaner and this helped cold drivability with these cold blooded engines. This was a common problem here in the cold damp winter time here in the Northwest. When cold you need heat under or into the carb until the engine is warm. Summer time should not be so bad.

Most all of the light duty trucks have the tube screwed into the side of the pan at a slight angle.

I think all the 218/230 small block passenger engines have the press fit "straight up" dip stick tubes in the block. The bigger 236/251 and 265 engines have a threaded tube into the block that has a slight outward angle.