Dodgeb4ya

Amazingly it really ran smooth, but a little low on the power side because of the Chain slop.

I didn't have any trouble getting this chain on!

Good suggestion!

Joe, Don't worry what/where the valves are-just bring #1 piston up flush to block deck, to TDC. Cam gear only will bolt on cam in one position out of three possibilities- 3 threaded holes on the cam. Put the cam gear/with bolts on cam loosely and rotate cam to get the cam and crank dots in perfect alinement before even trying to get the chain on. Set the dots exactly across from each other-imagine a straight line through the center line of crank and cam ,this will set the crank @ TDC and the valves as I recall are completely closed on #6 cylinder (actually firing #6)- you don't even need to be concerned what position the valves/ or the distruibutor rotor are at this early stage of the re-assembly. Just get the gears and chain on- in proper alinement. Then rotate engine to #1 cylinder TDC with #1 cylinder cam lobes positioned away from -opposite of lifters. Now you can check/install oil pump position and distributor rotor position for 7 O'clock---- # 1 firing position. I kinda still think the chain is correct as long as it fits the gears 100% correctly. I just did a Chrysler 6 with the same tight chain issue-bought the 3 piece set from VPW. You will get'r figured out Joe! Bob

Try 3 threaded 1-2" long guide bolts/studs threaded into the cam shaft-then evenly work the chain and 2 gears onto their proper locations. Get the crank gear onto the crank 1st slightly ahead of the cam gear already on the 3 studs. This should help. The new chain and gears are kinda hard to assemble but once on all the way (the chain) it will seem tight but not really overly tight. It's worth a try. A screw driver in one of the cam threaded holes can help start the cam gear onto the cam hub too. Bob

323 Chrysler Straight 8 chains are wider than the 6 cyl flathead chains and difficult to find too!

These crank gears are a fairly tight press fit onto the crankshaft. Check for burrs and do what Don said. You could make up press tube to push the gear on using a real thick large diameter washer put on the crank nut and forcing the gear on after de-burring it first. Pounding the gear or hub puts a lot of force against the rear main bearing thrust surface. Hammer Pounding could damage the main bearing and also roll over the front pulley flange hub bore. I have a special tool to remove and pess them on the old flatheads-have done a lot of them. Bob

If it was the cheaper steel head gasket, it wouldn't be worth the 2 cents!

Looks like the water "D" tube needs to go flush to the face of the block. I think most all new replacement head gaskets are made with the bump to fit early and late engines. Bob

Please cut the bolts used to attach the wood rails on your beautiful truck's beautiful bed so they only protrude a tiny bit from the nut. They bother me as I picture ripping a brand new pair of blue jeans just below a*s level. Maybe Robert was going to shorten up them extra long bolts and put chromed Acorn nuts on those protruding studs! It'll would be so nice!

A couple pictures of a 1950 and earlier external by pass block with no by pass hole in the block and a picture of the later internal by pass block with by pass hole and the proper factory by pass head installed. Bob

I just posted this infor for others to see if they didn't know about this seal style. Vintage is correct!

If the seal hits this is what it will look like-some dark discoloration. And yes that metal oil slinger type of oil seal IS very close to the TC chain. If the original old seal is carelessly pounded out it will cave in the timing cover just enough so when the new oil slinger type seal is pressed in with a unknowingly damaged TC cover you won't know there is a problem till you hear a rubbing noise down at the front of the engine and then you ask yourself what the hell is that noise? Bummer!

I have only seen the one bolt have the copper washer installed. Sealer will do too. The OE front seals stuck out about a 1/4" on the non-damper pulleys. Now all the replacement seals being just flat you just press them in all the way to the face of the cover and thats all you can do Bob

I used your timing cover picture, and one of mine to show, for those who don't know some points on the TC area to be sure to use sealer on most of the bolts and also the location of the copper sealing washer under the upper RH engine mount plate bolt, all this to be sure to help prevent oil/and water leakage at the front end of these 6 cylinder flatheads! Your engine looks show! Bob

This is probably the correct clutch torque shaft frame stud for your car. Approx. 1-3/4" long X 3/4" hex. Bob

You are fine. Just line the dots on the cam/ crank gears as you have done. Now rotate crank to set # 1 cylinder TDC with #1 clyinder valves closed (cam lobes down-pointing away from lifters) this is TDC for #1 cylinder and then install oil pump into the block as described in the manual. When pump is installed correctly withthe distributor installed correctly the rotor can only point either to 1-O'clock or 7-O'clock position. Have it point to the 7-O'clock position. Thats factory rotor position for #1 cylinder @TDC. Now do a preliminary cold valve adjustment on all your valves. I set mine .002" wider cold. Thats it -it will run properly after setting timing! Re-adjust valves again hot. Good luck-nice rebuild! Bob

Just line the dots up across from each other. Don't worry about valve position ect. Bob

6 Volt Corcoran Brown headlamp bulbs were installed up to 1948-they have a slight yellowish tint to the lighted beam. I have OE's in my T&C. Bob

They were factory installed headlamps for all line MoPars starting in 1949 to 1955 for 6 volt then the 12 volt bullseyes started in 1956. Bob

Here is a new chain on old gears- notice new chain doesn't match crank gear width totally---- bad situation! Yes it is easier to to install new chain and gears equally/carefully on crank and cam gears. After install check with a straight edge/ ruler ect.and make sure dots line up! Bob

Goes in the distributor rotor. Bob

Monroe is May 14th -15th.

I did that same spring on a 39 P8 . They are kinda tough to do even with the inner fender panel off! Even the master cylinder and the rest of the linkages is a PITA to get at!!! That over center spring is a smaller diameter spring than the later 46 and up cars too.