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Everything posted by mrwrstory
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Also look for someone to "true" or "shave" the tires. It's an old timey process done back in the day. My guy says,....," don't do no good to balance 'em if they're not round!" Pretty succinct I say.
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Can't beat radials even on an old car. Have not had good luck with Cokers on several occasions. A higher quality option in my opinion is Diamond Back. Not cheap but better looking as well.
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Trouble is it's flammable! I know from experience!
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Gas is the only way in my opinion if you want good looking welds. And unless you're really careful, grinding just weakens the connection.. A good looking weld needs no grinding. With practice, preparation and patience you can get a weld like this,....there is a trick to it 'tho!
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I posted a coupla pics of my Roadster back in 2014. They are long gone. Here's an update. The folding stowable top is a recent project. I may never get to the '40 Sedan. It's perfect for a resto. No one is interested.
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I believe Fat man uses the Citation rack. 'Tho very much like GM did it, It's still looks funky which was my problem with it. My suggestion does not assume used parts.
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Just thinkin,.....why not a plate on the Citation rack that instead of just being a flat plate adapting the diff. hole spacing,.... a piece of angled steel, (maybe with a 135 degree angle) with the holes for the Citation in one surface and the holes for the P15 tie rods in the other surface allowing you to tilt the input shaft 45 degrees toward the P15 column ? Hope you get the picture and assume the angles I suggested might need to be refined. Attached drawing is the concept of what I'm trying to suggest.
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The input shaft of the Citation R & P is near vertical because the rack is quite close to the firewall in the stock Citation application. It requires an extreme correction via multiple U-joints. Pretty goofy looking solution in my opinion and I couldn't bring myself accept that appearance 'tho others find it quite satisfactory. in application. That was many years ago and I'm thinking that others like Borgeson or Flaming River may now have an alternative solution.
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The engine shown was originally a 1956 315 Poly. I bored it to 325 cu. in. and used the 325 pistons and Hemi heads from another engine I still have. I also have a 270 and 241 and a buncha bits and pieces in my stash that I accumulated over 20 years ago when no one wanted a little Hemi. FYI - The '53 & '54 241s are the same. The '55 270 is a different block because of the greater bore diameter however, they all have the same exterior dimensions, motor mount configuration and things like starter, cam shaft, waterpump and intake and exhaust manifolds interchange. The only way to tell the engines apart is by serial # or by measuring bore diameter. The '56 315 and '57 325 Hemis have similar bores to the earlier engines but a longer stroke. Therefore the deck height is raised, (.625" if memory serves) and therefore the engine is a bit wider. The heads are interchangeable ('tho the later model has larger valves and ports). The motor mounts differ, flanges now cast into the block so ID easy. The engines are the same length and the bell housings all have the same bolt pattern. Maybe more info than you wanted. Give a shout if you have other questions. You're welcome to come visit me in So.Cal, escape the Aussie heat and partake of some SoCal Winter but,.....save the kiss!.
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Well 48p, so much for the "no negative comments please". Hardly any you could even call neutral. So,....here's a little support. I have a Hot Rodded P15 coupe. Spent waaaay too much money but I'm damn proud of it. It happens to be all Mopar but I still get crap from the so-called purists who have only modified their cars "just a little bit!" Great that you have an engine and drive train, money in the bank. However to do what you're proposing, you are not excused from doing some fabrication or paying someone to do so.. A different engine/trans/rearend will require some cuttin and pastin. Ford engines are a bit narrower than the other small blocks but,.....they are also a bit longer,....in any case meaning some modification of the firewall and/or core support is certain. I still had to do that with a Mopar engine. Bolt on front disk brake kits are available from vendors listed on this forum. Dropped spindles and shock mounts are also readily available. Drove my car with this setup for years. There is also a Cavalier rack and pinion kit available and which many folks have installed,; however, you still have a steering column and shift linkage issue to address. I could not bring myself to use it. Seemed like a real cobble job to me and I ultimately went with a new front clip. My P15 modification was not without it's challenges. It was the first time I attempted such an extensive project. But I learned a lot. Approach it like eating an elephant,...one bite at a time. ? Good luck!
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Just happen to have the engine outta my car. Valve cover - width (left to right) flange to flange 19" width to vertical surfaces 18.19" Valve cover - height (top to bottom) flange to flange 8" height to vertical surfaces 7.19" If you need more, just give a shout.
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I can get you the dims. later today. If you didn't know, the valve covers are the same for all Dodge Red Ram Hemis, whether 241, 270, 315 or 325. And, if you did not know, the Dodge early Hemis are about 1" shorter than the equivalent year DeSoto Hemis and about 2" shorter than the equivalent year Chrysler Hemis.
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I purchased and installed a Newport Engrg. unit in my P15. It's a quality unit and their customer service is very good if you have any questions. I'm very pleased and positively recommend it.
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Awesome effort! Huge amount of work that would discourage most. You the man!!!!!!
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Very cool,....old tech and new.
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Great looking car! I bought mine many years ago but have decided to sell it. Too many projects, ya know!
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Looks like that jet on the hood is lined up on the runway.
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What causes your speedo to be in error?....new rearend?....diff. tire dia?....diff. trans?....speedo need to be refreshed?.....how great is the error. I have a modified P-15, stock speedo, diff. engine, diff. trans, diff. rearend. I bought the little transducer you see advertised in several auto publications. Told the supplier the diff. between indicated speed and actual speed (via GPS). He customized the unit and it's spot on for less than $100.00. If you need the source let me know and I will dig through my receipts.
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Remember Yanks, ...$12.5K Canadian is about $10K U.S. I'd say not too far off if the build quality addresses what others have warned about. Does it run and drive decent? Yeah, the color sucks and the missing rocker trim are bargaining points in your favor. My opinion,... if you really like the car and can get it for $10K Canadian, "pull the trigger". And,...if you find you paid $1000 to much but enjoy the car for 5 years, that's just $200.00 a year. I'd bet you cold recover that by dialing back on golf, beer, cell phone or cable charges.
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I'm having a top done for the Roadster by a pretty together young man. This as I approached his place a coupla days ago.
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Googled '39 Hayes bodied Plymouth and came up with Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge......No Plymouth! Maybe it was a Dodge I saw thinking the DeSoto and Chrysler would have been larger cars. Now, looking at the pics, I'm reminded of the chrome window trim and the the shape of the top reminiscent of the '39 Mercurys. Handsome car!
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That's it,....I think. Woulda swore it was a Plymouth. But that was probably more than 15 years ago. Perhaps memory DOESN'T serve! ?
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A bit OT from this topic, but ever so often I'm reminded of a custom bodied Plymouth I saw at the WPC Museum many years ago. Limit production I believe,....1939-1940 I believe. It was quite elegant. It had a subtle peak developed in the roof that transitioned down the back through the backlight and down the rear deck. I tried Googling it, to share, with no luck. I believe it was a body by Haines, or Haynes, or Hayes. Any one know of this rare and beautiful car or,.....can anyone find an image?