T120

Many years ago now, I bought an old car that hadn't been run for a long time, (years). The car wouldn't start... reason was simple , the points were not opening , a small adjustment and the engine fired right up. ?

Skip the sushi...

I use those same attachments on both my side mirrors.The mirrors on my Dodge are possibly original to the car as it was fitted with side mirrors as an accessory when purchased new.Between both my age and the age of the car I am not into fast lane changes in heavy multi lane traffic and these work fine for me.The passenger side is usable as well...?

If you would like some bling in the engine compartment.This is a picture of a Plymouth 23 inch engine with faux finned cast iron head and was posted by 1941Rick,who is no longer active on the forum. It was his car at the time and looked pretty good. As I recall the fins were custom made, chrome plated angle iron and attached to the head with the head bolts...

From the photo of the fuel pump you posted,it appears teflon tape was used on the threaded fittings.When installing a new fuel pump I would suggest not using teflon tape as It does not stand up well to gasoline.

I wouldn't attempt to explain - however the term "cathodic" protection has come up on this forum in the past, and there is a far better explanation available on the web than I could offer ...☺️

The nine most terrifying words in the English language....?

... Or the connection for the vacuum wiper motor . ?

Possiblly the connection for the manifold drain valve . Used back in the day to correct the problem of fuel pooling in the intake causing flooding.I would probably install a plug.....This is the manifold drain valve on my 1936 DeSoto.

Good video - great location for a car show...shaded parking available.?

Tod,I believe you are correct.There is what I thought a good analysis of brake light switch failure on the MGAguru website. Basically because of the manner in which the brake light switch is activated, it is not a "snap" action and during the switch opening and closing arcing can occur. Damage to the contacts is cumulative causing the resistance of the contacts to increase over time...some contacts used in manufacture will last longer than others...

Thanks to you Dave and other POC advisors sharing their knowledge and enthusiasm, it has without a doubt helped to keep numerous old Plymouths on the road...Also nice to remember those who have shared our enthusiasm for the hobby.

Dave,I see you have have held that position for years - I have a copy of The Plymouth Bulletin no. 183 from July-August 1990 featuring photos of the P.O.C. meet in Calgary, including a nice photo of you with your 1951 Cranbrook Conv. accepting an award. Nice of you to share your expertise...

...You're welcome.

I had a problem with the headlight switch on my 1936 DeSoto.There was some resistance to pulling out the switch to operate the lights and it was not making proper contact.I removed the switch and found the phenolic portion of the switch was slightly warped and discoloured and it looked as though it had overheated sometime in the past.I was able to carefully disassemble the switch, cleaned and lubricate the contacts and reassembled it and the switch now works okay . I was able to find a N.O.S. light switch as a spare . My 1936 DeSoto is also 6 Volts,and the headlights had been changed to sealed beam lamps. I plan to wire in a 6 volt dual headlamp relay. I found this one on ebay cost was around $30.US. It is a K-W stock no C -1080 ( N.O.S.,made in U.S.A.)....See figure 1 on the diagram

In some cases because of the age of the wiring - with brittle insulation as well as corrosion of the conductor, point to point replacement is the only solution.

On my 1937 Chrysler, I'm kinda embarrassed of the photo I posted of the wiring I did around the starter motor... When I bought the car several years ago ,a previous owner had the car into a shop and paid to have it converted to a 12 volt negative ground battery system...while some of the work they did was okay,I wasn't happy with the cluster of wires at the starter motor.. After I bought the car, .I did a rather quick assessment of the wiring and this was basically what I did one evening to give me some peace of mind ...It was rather a quick and nasty fix..

I won't brag about the workmanship. As I wasn't aiming for a full restoration,I just addressed some weak points in the wiring at the time and it gave me confidence to connect the battery and turn the key on.. ?

This is what I did to clean up some of the wiring at the starter on my 1937 Chrysler...

I scanned the wiring diagram and harness for the 1937 Plymouth,it may be of some use...With my 1937 Chrysler a previous owner had converted it to 12 volts and relocated the battery in the trunk. There was also a number of wires that were connected at the starter,I moved them to an insulated terminal on the firewall and added some fuses...

I agree with, chrysler1941 - fuses are required for safety. Where the insulation and general condition of existing wiring is acceptable and a 100 percent correct restoration is not required,I have used couple of items to improve safety of the electrical wiring.Normally,I would disconnect the battery if it is easily easily accessible and the vehicle is left unattended for any length of time. On my 1936 DeSoto coupe, I replaced the cable from the battery to the starter and also the ground cable.Because the battery is located under the seat, for convenience the wire from the starter to the rest of the vehicle is through a fuse to a disconnect switch as pictured. On my 1937 Chrysler,the battery had been relocated to the trunk by a previous owner, I disconnect the battery when not in use. I used an insulated standoff as pictured on the firewall as a tie in point to fused wiring to the rest of the car.I used heat shrink to cover the stud when I finished making the connections. These parts are easy to find. Not stock but easily corrected if someone wants to go that route in the future..

A couple of years ago I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my DeSoto. I had a pair of NOS gaskets on hand that were dry and hard and had also shrunk a bit.I soaked them, but when I started to install the covers one of gaskets broke apart.I decided to cut new gaskets using composite cork and rubber gasket material. Worked well for me.

Sorry for my flippant reply...From another "Oldguy", nice to see you make use of our present day technology to solve your problem.☺️

Ain't science wunderful?...?

Nothing wrong with having a 20 footer.I also have a couple of projects - photos look good.Have fun...?