knuckleharley

Yeah,but let one break down alongside the road and see how much luck you have fixing it.

Flatheads were DESIGNED to handle that sort of thing. It's modern cars that need smooth,paved roads.

I usually do that,and also place a couple of old tires right up against the front of the bed,and slide the engine forward to make contact with the tires. Strap it tight,top and bottom if you have the strap hooks at the bottom. Some people (me) even go so far as to cut a piece of plywood to fit into the bed of the truck so you don't scrape paint off the bed. If you have the plywood in the floor,you don't really need the tire and wheel for the engine to sit in. Just push it up against the tires you stood upright at the front of the bed,and strap it down. No sense in letting it get a "running start" towards the cab if you have to hit the brakes

The Plymouth is just "fine"? I think you and I might have a different understanding on what the word "fine" means. Either that or you have to be THE toughest show car judge on the planet.

Exactly! Noting ventured,nothing gained.

Thanks,I didn't know that.

I guess it is if you can see it good enough to tell what it is.

Whatever that is,I really like it.

Ok,thanks for the explanation.

If a higher cruising speed in necessary,wouldn't you be better off using a more modern 230 or 251,and maybe a higher gear set in the rear?

Doesn't your side info say you have no project cars anymore?

I'm betting his local tire store sends him birthday and Christmas cards.

That little Dodge panel truck has to be rarer than the 31-32 Plymouth.

Some people never seem to understand that it's not how much you make that is important,it's how much it costs you to live and how much you have left over after paying for the essentials. There are still lots of nice places to live in this country where an annual 92k income could make you VERY comfortable if you don;t gamble or do other foolish things.

I talked with my brother in San Jose last night. His 32 year old son is a machinist and makes 92 thousand a year. In MOST places,that would be a lot of money,but he can't even afford to buy a house and he and his wife are still living in an apartment.

Who knows? You live in California,and they may have passed a law against selling it for "environmental reasons" so you have to go to a dealer to get any work done involving fuel systems?

No I don't,and I didn't mean any offense to you. If you think I did,I apologize for the misunderstanding. All I can do is tell you my experiences,and they are that it is not hard to find where I live.

Well,they are not really plastic. They are poly-something,just like the gas tanks put in new cars and trucks today.

I have two tanks from Tanks,inc in two of my cars,and both fit like they were supposed to and were well made. IIRC,I paid about 230 bucks for each one. I do wish now I had gotten the black plastic tanks instead because they will never rust. IIRC,they were a little more expensive.

Why do you have to check it while driving? Do you never stop when you think the car is running hot?

An electronic control module (like a MSD unit) should compensate for the thinner air/rich burn conditions by adjusting the timing,but unless you have fuel injection and a computer in charge of fuel,air,and timing, I doubt you would notice the difference.

I don't know why not. It is standard fuel line for every car made for the last 10+ years. It's hard to find rubber gas line anymore that ISN'T ethanol-proof because federal law requires ethanol in gasoline.

I hope you have better luck with old gas tanks than me. My positive results are zero. On the dual outlet master cylinders,one outlet goes to the front brakes and one goes to the rear,

If that green car in the photo is yours,you are one lucky guy!

Different thoughts on master cylinders. If it were me,I would buy a rebuilt one from White Post Restorations that has a stainless steel sleeve installed in it ,or just buy a kit to put a dual-outlet master cylinder on it,and leaning hard on the dual outlet master cylinder. I wouldn't go for the power brake option,though. If I were putting new brakes on a drive car from scratch,I wouldn't even consider a single outlet master cylinder. I can see them for a restored show car,but not for a driver car. Don't even think of rebuilding the wheel cylinders. You can search around by partnumber and buy then new cheaper than you can buy a rebuild kit. I was being quoted a price right at 100 bucks each for wheel cylinder for my 39 IHC PU,and I did a web search for the parts numbers and bought brand new US made wheel cylinders from Amazon for $4.50 each. Come to find out the 53-54 Corvettes used the same wheel cylinders,as did other more common cars. BTW,go ahead and replace the brake lines,too. No matter how good they look on the outside,they are steel,and there is no telling how much rust there is on the inside. Use the new copper-nickel brake lines and never have to worry about rust in or out again. Replace all the rubber hoses,too. Then plan on fitting a new reproduction gas tank (plastic or galvanized) into your budget,and use copper-steel brake lines for gas lines,too. I have a couple of tanks from Tanks,Inc in different cars,and have nothing but good things to say about them. The price is even good. The last tank I pulled off maybe a year ago looked good until I pulled it off. VERY little rust on the bottom. The top had a hole I could stick my fist through,though.