knuckleharley

There are times when I honestly think I buy old cars to give me an excuse to buy tools.

I can't make up my mind if that is funny or sad.

Thanks,I didn't know that. Was it marked "brown"?

Seeing the word "black" on that makes me wonder if you could get a chartreuse one? Or maybe one in Candy Apple Red? I guess they put "black" on it in case someone totally blind was sorting them somewhere,and they could feel the raised letters?

Well,you live up a dirt and gravel road. I live up a dirt road on an island that floods. Besides the thick coat of dust in the summer just from cars passing by,I don't want to deal with mud thrown up under the car. Especially not since I have flexibility programs and can't bend over and sometimes can't bend my knees.

You can take one of the old emery board fingernail files and use it to clean the points in your regulator if they are sticking.

I am loving the hell out of that shade of green. What is it called? Not that I can use it. I live up a dirt road,so I can't have dark cars.

And cowards run away while staying silent.

Don't leave.

Does it really matter? You would have to be nuts to not replace both seals while you have it apart.

I'm betting you had more than a few people speed up or slow down to take a good look at that slick black beauty.

He's right. I also recommend you start fixing stuff as you take it apart. This includes priming and making ready for paint and sending your chrome off to the chrome shop a year before you need it. That way there is no danger of having a completely disassembled car with hundreds of random parts laying around that need to be redone,and getting overwhelmed. For example,pull the front clip and get it all blasted,repaired,and ready for a final scuff and wipe down before the color goes on. This is a good time to make an inventory of all the crhome you are going to be sending off to the chrome shop,along with photos of it, You can also redo the headlight buckets,blast and paint the bumper braces,etc,etc,etc. When you get all that done,pull the engine and trans,and start working on the firewall,floors,and doors. Don't start on something else until you have finished repairing and prepping what you have already pulled. Make notes of what you need to buy as you pull it apart and work on it. Include little stuff like new gaskets for the parking lights,new parking light lenses,etc,etc,etc. Put the bolts you pull from the fenders in bags with seals and mark them as being from the front fenders,bumper brackes,hood hinges,radiator,etc,etc,etc. You will be glad you did later.

Well,it doesn't always end that way. The thing you need to do is look for local car clubs,or at least clubs "local" enough you can go to their shows or runs occasionally to meet and talk with people who also own and drive old American cars. Meet a few people and ask them who did their engine work and who they would recommend to do yours. Try to avoid mass re-manufacturers of modern engines for businesses if you can because there are "quirks" to old designs they won't know about. And since you already have another engine in your car but want to rebuild the original to put back in there,I will give you the same advise I give to new American owners of old cars. Contact vocational/technical schools in your area,find one that has an automotive machine shop course,and enroll in those classes and rebuild it yourself under supervision. Yeah,that will take longer than just dropping it off for someone else to build,but you don't need it right away and you won't be able to put a price on the pride you will get from doing it yourself.

One thing you can do is grind down/drill out the rivets so you can save your rims,and then have a wheel shop rivet your old centers into newer and wider outers. That way you haven't destroyed anything and can go back to stock wheels if you ever decide to do that. What *I* would do would be save the old wheels and tires and look for new/newer wheels and tires with the same bolt pattern and similar backspacing.

Who can blame it? That car sounds like a keeper to me!

Can't speak for anyone else,but I like your plan. Especially the ohv inline 6 Jeep engine.

Check your local automotive machine shops until you find one that rebuilds crankshafts. They do this by building the journals up with welds,and then grinding them back down to stock OD's. Rebuilding a 230 crank this way is no different than rebuilding a crank for a new Mercedes this way,so it should be no problem as long as you give them the stock main and rod OD's. And yes,straightening and balancing them is a part of the process. Why buy a used crank that MIGHT have to be straightened and ground undersize,when you can just get yours rebuild to new specs for probably less money and a lot less time when you consider shipping? If worse comes to worse you can ship your crank to Power Engineering in Denver,Colorado and have them do it. I used to work there myself back in the 70's,and know for a fact they ship internationally. Still,it is best,cheapest,and quickest to have it done locally if possible. There is nothing high-tech or mysterious about it.

Are you 100 percent certain your rear has never been changed? If not,you might want to check the parts number on it to make sure of what you have before you order parts.

I have never heard of this stuff before. Where can you buy it?

Janis Joplin???

What did that old car ever do to anyone to deserve that?

I understood them to the point where starting in the 3rd grade my goal was to become a paratrooper. I even wore jump boots to elementary school. Joined the army on my 17th birthday after enlisting for a guaranteed assignment to jump school (airborne unassigned),and ended up serving 6 years in Special Forces before getting medievaced from VN while on my second tour there in 1969. No longer physically able to remain in a Special Forces or other airborne unit,I was assigned to the regular army as a babysitter (NCO) for young draftees who didn't want to be there and who spent more effort trying to avoid doing anything useful than they did actually doing anything. The regular army didn't like me any better than I liked them,so I took my discharge in 1970. It is a rare day that passes that I still don't miss being in SF,though. This is due entirely to the people I served with. Nobody had to be ordered to do anything. If someone saw something that needed to be done,they did it and didn't bitch about it. Best time of my life.

I had a cousin that married a young man that was a paratrooper in the 101st. He ended the war as a platoon sgt. One of my neighbors as a kid was a draftee that got a battlefield commission to 1st Lt Platoon Leader of Armor with Patton in Africa. Never saw him mad in my life until somebody mentioned Patton to him. I thought his head was going to explode.

Unless I misunderstood what you wrote,you need to attach a jumper on one of your contacts,and then strike it against the other contact to complete the connection. I usually just use jumper cables and clamp one on the starter terminal,and then strike the other against the part where the mounting holes are on the rear. In other words,you have an open circuit and need to complete it.