Jump to content

knuckleharley

Members
  • Posts

    4,842
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69

Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. Why would you need a 4 PSI cap with a modern radiator? AFAIK,the 4psi cap was used on the original ones to keep them from building up so much pressure the seams would split. On the other hand,the new radiators are made to handle the higher pressures. Look at the literature you got with your new radiator for cap pressure recommendations. If you can't find any,contact Champion. Chances are excellent your old Mopar will cool just fine with a 4psi cap,but if it ever starts to run hot in traffic,be aware you can put a higher pressure cap on it to help cooling. BTW,I have a Champion aluminum radiator in my 51 Ford with a flat V-8 and original Fordomatic,and IIRC,I am running a 16 lb pressure cap on it.
  2. Well,you have already learned to buy nice cars to start with,so that puts you way ahead of me.
  3. Looks custom-made by a owner to me,and I still want it.
  4. YIKES! I'll take the pair right out of my 48 coupe and sell them to you for the low,low price of 500 bucks if you need them that badly! Truth to tell,I'd be surprised if you couldn't buy a good used pair for 50 to 75 bucks,plus shipping. IF they are as universal amongst 40's and 50's cars as I think they might be,25 to 50 bucks plus shipping. They can't be a very hard to find high demand item because I have never heard of anyone looking for them before this. I just had heart surgery so I am not able to move a lot of stuff around or disassemble things right now,but if you haven't found a pair in 2 weeks for less than 50 bucks,shoot me a PM. I'm pretty certain I have some laying around somewhere.
  5. Just be VERY careful to not punch it unless both it and the road ahead are straight.
  6. 117 inches? That must have been sporting.
  7. I used to rebuild them a long time ago,but I just buy new ones now and be done with it. ESPECIALLY with fuel pumps that now have to deal with ethanol in the gas. http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/ I buy mine from this guy. Not cheap,but nobody does it better or uses better parts. I am to the age and physical condition now that I only want to do something once,and even then I want to do it in the comfort of my air-conditioned and heated garage. If you want to learn and experience doing it yourself,there is nothing preventing you from buying a rebuild kit from NAPA or some other parts store after verifying it was made in America,and then rebuilding the old water and/or fuel pumps you just took off,and using them as the spares that ride around in the trunk. If it turns out it spends the rest of your life riding around in the trunk as a spare and never being used,good for you,you won! If it happens that a few years down the road you are broke down hundreds of miles away from home and need a water pump or a fuel pump to get back home,once again,"Good for you,you WON!" Maybe it is just me,but I have always found it to be a LOT more fun rebuilding an old part at my leisure and not have to worry about getting it rebuilt and back on the car as soon as possible so I can go for a ride.
  8. You are welcome. To me the learning experience is a large part of the fun. Once you figure out what the problem was and what to needs be done about it,of course. The reward is the feeling of accomplishment,which is next to impossible to find with modern cars that have miles of wiring and require thousands of dollars in special tools.
  9. If your dad was right about bucket seats being safer,there would be bucket seats in the rear of cars instead of bench seats because there would be government mandates. Bucket seats were safer for race cars because they used chest harnesses originally used in 40's and 50's fighter aircraft,and bucket seats allowed them to be bolted or wrapped around roll bars in race cars. Bolt your seatbelt straps to the floor behind you after reinforcing it with big washers or straps of metal bolted to the floor and you will be fine. After all,the seat belt straps fit between the seat bottom and the seat back anyhow.
  10. Nice looking car,and the two door sedans are pretty rare.
  11. They were called "bobbers" back when I was still able to ride. Dressers stripped down to the basics for weight loss,but still running the big tanks and tires for comfort. Lots of them (most?) have hot cams and the ever-popular S&S carbs like that one. You might be surprised what just a cam and carb change will do for even a dresser,never mind one stripped down to the basics.
  12. The Germans also made a poor man's BMW called a Zundapp. I had a cousin stationed in Germany in the 50's in the USAF,and he brought one back,I THINK it was a 600cc version,and gave it to 14 year old me. Took my mother all of a micro-second to put a "For Sale" sign on it. Most likely a wise move on her part. The Soviets also had a BMW they made in the USSR called the "Ural". The history I got on this one is they sent people to Germany to buy new BMW's in every configuration they came in sometime in 1936,crated them up,and shipped them to the USSR,where they were taken apart and cloned for use by the Red Army. They were still being made when I made my second trip to Russia maybe 4 years after the USSR collapsed,and you could buy one new directly from the factory still painted in Red Army green with a big red star on the tanks. You could even get one with a powered sidecar attached to it that had either a wheel or a track. I didn't find this out until just before I left,but immediately made my mind up to buy one immediately on my next trip,and take a ride from Moscow to St.Petersburg,stopping off at all the little villages along the way and seeing the sights. Came down with COPD before I could go back,and haven't been back since. If I can't walk around and see things and talk to people,I have no interest in going. BTW,you can buy a new Ural in the US now. The difference is no more Soviet Green and red stars. They come in two-tone paint jobs now,have modern carbs,and chrome wheels. I have no idea if the side car with the powered tracks is available in the US,but can see where it would be handy in places like Alaska or Canada.
  13. That MIGHT be a rocker down by the fender brace. Can't see it well,so it's hard for me to tell. Even if there is a rocker it is more for style that function. 50's and earlier street bicycles were mostly for kids,and there wasn't even weight there to need suspension. The one I saw yesterday with the swing arm was one of those short modern bikes made for stunts.
  14. HEY! It's got a springer! Now all it needs is a 3/4 inch rake,15 over forks,and drag bars with laid back dogbones. Saw a modern bicycle just yesterday with a swing-arm suspension.
  15. sidecars require a different rake on the front forks than bikes without them. Harley used to make (probably still do) adjustable rake front forks for use with sidecars. I'm guessing at this late date they are both hard to find and pricey for the older models.
  16. My only suggestion for an all-original car like that would be to either have your engine completely rebuilt,or install a rebuilt replacement engine. A 230 Mopar flat 6 has plenty of power to cruise right along at 60 MPH. That car is just too nice to be swapping in a V-8 engine and modern transmission. My opinion,and worth every dollar you paid for it.
  17. If it were me,I would contact Scarebird and ask them what they recommend. Make sure you ask for OEM parts numbers as well as donor car year and model. I would definitely make an effort to use a dual-outlet master cylinder,and I would ask them about one that didn't need a power booster.
  18. That's the kind of thinking that brought us hot rods. If you can't afford to buy it,make something else work/
  19. If you don't want people to respond to your posts,don't write them.
  20. Breathing mold and mildew spores while replacing the roof and walls on my house.
  21. Look in the yellow pages and ask the counter guys at your local NAPA store about restorers/antique car club members in your area. I'd be surprised if you can't find one willing to do the brake work and other minor work like that,or who would even be willing to teach you how or work on them with you. You don't need the car at 6 AM every morning to drive to work,so who cares if it takes you a weekend to do a 3 hour job? This is a hobby,not a contest.
  22. Both links you gave for your truck lead to a Amazon page with misc auto-related stuff for sale.
  23. I never go away from home with any old car or truck I own unless I have a spare NOS fuel pump and water pump in the trunk,and a small tool box so I have the tools to replace them,tighten loose nuts or bolts,tighten fan belts,remove stuck thermostats,etc,etc,etc. If the car was done several years ago,it might be worth your while to carry spare radiator hoses,or to just replace old radiator and heater hoses before you leave home. You can buy a brand new fuel pump rated for use with ethanol and a brand new water pump to keep in your trunk cheaper that a rollback ride to anywhere,and a HELL of a lot cheaper than two or three days,or even more,in a motel room while you are waiting for the parts to come in. One of the things I appreciate the most about pre-1975 cars is the fact that you CAN fix most of the things that go wrong with them along side the road if you have a basic tool box and the new parts. I have a 06 turbo diesel 3/4 ton truck I used to pull my trailer back when I was still buying project and parts cars,and the labor bill alone to replace the water pump was estimated to be $1,000 5 or 6 years ago when I bought it. Seems you have to pull the whole front clip to get to the water pump. Keep this in mind the next time you want to complain about the price of a new starter,generator,or water pump on your old Mopar! Of course,I can't pull a total load of 20k lbs down the interstate at 75 MPH with the cruise control on and the ac blowing cool air in my face with any of my old Mopars,either. Everything has it place and it's use. Of course,if I were 20 or 30 years younger I have a 37 Dodge 2ton cab and chassis that I think would be a LOT of fun if I were to shorter the chassis for a 6 foot bed with a 5th wheel hitch and "Z" it about 6 inches front and rear,add dropped beam front axle from a 1 ton,a 14 bolt dually 1 ton rear,6 foot stake body on the back,and power it with a Turbo Cummings with a 6 speed and chrome stacks running up the back of the cab. THAT would be a cool tow truck!
  24. I bet they do.
  25. Beautiful car! For me,it is the two-tone paint,the luggage rack,and the sun visor that really set that beauty off.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use