JBNeal

the '53-'56 caps look like stainless, the '48-'52 caps look chromed...I have several '48-'52 caps that are very dull and kinda rusty...that lightweight cap looks of very similar construction as that '53-'56 cap I linked, and that one weighs a fraction as the common 2-pc.

industrial hose supply shops, if they are not too busy, can be persuaded to cut off old ferrules and crimp on new ferrules over new hoses for a modest fee...I've done this several times for similar instances where special ends were being used on hose assemblies...but I had to catch the guys at the right time of the week when they were not super grumpy

the 108" wheelbase + steering design makes for a tight turning circle. I won a bet with a passenger who did not think I could make a U-turn on a side street without wiping out the garbage cans on the curbs...not only did I win the bet, but she was amazed at how the steering wheel snapped back to center after I made the turn, let go of the wheel and hit the gas She also commented that the 126"w.b. 1-ton rode way smoother and was a LOT quieter on the highway (even though both had practically the same engine + exhaust)

at one time, Roberts sold replacement hub cap skins, but it looks like they and DCM only sell new hub cap assemblies, and are quite proud of them. I'm gonna guess that the 1-pc design was the early '48s, and the two piece design was for '48-'52, as they all have the same part number; '53-'56 were a tad different as I have one that is a 2-pc design that was a skin crimped over a heavy formed ring that attached to the wheel clips, but several others that are a skin crimped over a heavy cap blank like the '48-'52s. The problem I have with several of the 2-pc hub caps is that the blank is rusty and blistering under the skin, which has made the skin loose on the blank. At one time, I was gonna clean up the blanks and apply new skins, but it appears that skin option is no longer available. Maybe that 1-pc cap could get spiffed up and be hung on a wall with a light behind it

I hate to tell ya this but that member appears to have not logged into his account in nearly 5 years. Do ya need yours repaired or do ya not even have a starter for your truck?

have ya reached out to any industrial equipment service shops? heavy equipment starters for industrial, commercial, construction, or agriculture use have similar heavy duty design as these older starters, and whoever works on these big machines might be able to point ya in the right direction locally.

aw geez I reckon I'm kinda spoiled then as the custom exhaust shops around here have some nice quality products and craftsmanship to choose from...none of those "we can make it fit" einsteins in these local shops

correct, the synchro 4spd was available starting in '51. additional information - possible 1-ton powertrain upgrades

additional information - flathead bypass oil filter operation

I was able to heave the hoods on the '48 and '49 by myself, but it would go much smoother with help. I rigged some pilot studs on the cowl and the baffle, covered the cowl and fenders with old blankets, taped up the hood edges, folded the hood halves vertical and used the latch handles to lift and carry. I had a platform that I made for another project that located my knees right about at the top of the grille panel, so I was able to lift the hood by the handles by putting my hands at my shoulders, plant my knees atop the grille panel, then tilt the hood towards the cowl, aiming for the pilot studs. Because of back injuries, I would not attempt that macho maneuver today, but the pilot studs and protecting the paint are still workable.

Don't forget to dimple the ends of that pivot pin so it won't walk out of the casting...that's a nasty little timebomb these reproductions hide...

I was under the impression that new timing chains these days need to be accompanied with new timing gears so they match pitch.

When I got the '48 and '49 running, I rigged up a downpipe from the manifold and drove the trucks into town to the local muffler guy...who was strategically located within spittin' distance of the best chicken fried steak place in the area I talked to him beforehand to tell him what I wanted, he gave me some suggestions and pricing on pipe and mufflers, squared everything away a few days ahead of time, then rolled into town wearing earplugs, let him do his magic while I chowed down for a bit, then headed back home with a nice sophisticated ride. After nearly 20 yrs, there's just a few rust spots on the muffler and downpipe. I had the remnants of the original tailpipe, which went up and over the rear axle and had a slight angled bend at the exhaust, something I knew I could not do, but the muffler man's machine knocked that out in two shakes of a pig's tail.

Leave the spiral nail holes as reference points for the adhesive-backed lacing or weatherstripping. If you're not entering the truck in a points competition, then use something modern that works and is economical. The same goes for that door weatherstripping, any properly sized D-shaped strip should work I had a window guy tell me years ago that on older vehicles, it's cheaper to get a new gasket than a new windshield, so sacrifice the gasket as they tend to not hold up well after one use. Old gaskets also develop cracks that are not easily seen, until the first driving rain, when the driver's feet get soaked.

additional information - 2 x 4 engine stand

B-series did not have a factory side mount spare tire, but I've seen plenty of homemade and JC Whitney-style side mounts.

additional information - gallery images inserted in forum posts additional information - gallery album limits

What is the condition of the accelerator pump? Is the leather intact?

The ground cable to the transmission did not have any sleeve (I'm a proponent of grounding to a starter mounting stud). B-1s had the starter cable loose around the clutch + brake pedals and that could get kinda sparky after awhile, so somewhere during the B-2s the starter cable was mounted to the frame with this flexible conduit.

I found out years ago that manufacturers are not really interested in supporting trucks that are going on 20 yrs old...their commercials say "most reliable" and "durable", but when attempting to order certain critical parts, the parts desk will say "on back order" or "no longer available" and they'll suggest going the aftermarket route while holding the door open for me ... Cardone has command of brake part remanufacturing, and their quality control shows with their indifference to working specifications from lack of competition. NAPA parts were the best of the Cardone lot, but not by much...Autozone calipers were so bad, I didn't even leave the store with them; Advance Auto hydroboost units were pathetic: leaky, missing brackets, and one replacement that took a week to show up was a misboxed older hydroboost that did not fit I was very tempted to circumvent the ABS to pass inspection last year, but if I got caught, I would have to get it fixed anyway. So I kept at it...and this truck has great utility that is lacking in the bloated overpriced curb-destroying gigantaurs that race from stop light to stop light...kinda hard to want to give up on a truck that is easy to get in and out of, has great visibility in all directions (the wireless backup camera comes in handy for hitching up to trailers), and bedsides that can be reached over without the need of a step ladder. I have a few elderly neighbors with Ram 1500s, and their biggest gripe is trying to get into those buggies, and they have bounced off a few curbs because they cannot see over the nose...a couple have srsly offered even trade for this ride, one being a Laramie Longhorn with air conditioned seats ?

I caught myself griping at millennials and their nonsense on the TV the other day...then changed the channel to Bob Ross making happy little clouds and my disposition improved...but only slightly...

I measured .06" wire diameter x 9/16" ID x 17" long on that sleeve...here is an option from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/9665K93/

The multiple repetitive replacements were covered under warranty, except for the wheel sensors, but fluids for flushing and bleeding added up...I think I went through over 10 gallons of power steering fluid and over 5 gallons of brake fluid, and that adds up...all that time spinning my wheels I'll never get back, but now I can get on the pile of work that has been on hold and drive down the road without worrying about ruining any more tires...just this morning, I had to get on them brakes when a suicidal squirrel ran out in front of the truck while trying to zip out of town, and there were no casualties, rodent nor radial ?

I found that I needed to go into Account Settings and switch Content View Behavior back to Comments I Haven't Read as it had switched to Take Me To The Beginning...but I'm also a newbie now, so I reckon the saying is true: what's old is new again

The electrical tape that I've removed from these late 40s - early 50s trucks looks like thin adhesive-backed vinyl unidirectional bonding strip that stiffens as it ages...have removed similar tape from tractors of similar vintage...under the dash, I reckon anything goes as long as it doesn't dangle unattractively and/or ventilate smoke going down a bumpy road ?