JBNeal

I have rebuilt 2 flatheads with engines in the truck, including worn valve guides, as I read about how to do it in an old shop manual, no machining done other than lapping valves by hand. I'd lose about a quart every 3500 miles, but I'd be changing the oil anyway at that point. The best I can figure is tight valve guides seep very little oil into the combustion chamber as the lubricant surface tension resists vacuum induced flow. Worn valve guides allow the lubricant to flow freely due to vacuum as the surface tension becomes irrelevant with the additional space for fluid movement. Always check your tailpipe and body panels for extra carbon residue as some of the exhaust emission swirls and sticks to adjacent metal surfaces...a dirty backside is a clear indicator of poor engine health

Definitely check to see if the door is balanced with the halfway open test. If the door is not balanced, then the opener will not work properly and could wear prematurely. Properly balanced doors require very little effort to open or close. This summer, I serviced my neighbors metal building with 12' doors as both openers were on the fritz and the garage door guys never would show up for their appointments after 6 months of rescheduling. Doors were not balanced, one opener fried a belt, the other opener fried the receiver. Both had the torsion springs, so I sucked it up, cut some scrap rebar for spring tools and got everything balanced. Replaced failing parts, reprogrammed transmitters, and he was back in business a day later. He commented how quiet the openers were nowadays, before they hummed fairly loudly, he thought that I must have "tuned up" them electric drive motors

These small items are tricky getting ordered these days...I've stalled on several projects because of the non-negotiable 15 buck shipping fees from vendors that could ship in a small padded envelope for 5 bucks 2 yrs ago, it's like they want to make up for lost sales from last year or sumthin'ruther ?

I've lowered the float by about 1/32 and that helped keep the carb exterior dry. Another thing I've done is soak the leather seal on the accelerator piston in 10W30 for about 24hrs to saturate with lubricant, as well as adding Marvel Mystery Oil to each tankful, to add more lubricant to the fuel and extend the leather service life as well as decrease startup times after extended idle periods additional information - leather seal preparation

Slew grease is nasty stuff, not really meant for enclosed spaces as it basically just forms a thin friction-reducing film when compressed but eventually sloughs off the load bearing surfaces, not sure if it's meant for a worm gear application...I would think that it's tackiness would damage the output shaft seal to the point where the sealing material is removed from the seal assembly. Slew grease is kinda chunky and not known for being able to displace moisture as well as the corn head grease that can flow more easily into tight spaces. And WOW does slew grease stink ?

Skip the grease fitting and just fill through the oil fill cap...driving around, the corn head grease will settle while displacing air...top off as needed

A powertrain upgrade that is well-executed can be fun to drive with modern traffic, but the flathead has a wow factor coming and going...and just sitting there in between Sunday drives

Correct, the Cummins 6.7L is the stump-pullin' yet refined improvement over the 5.9L HO...lots of support out there for this blue ribbon power plant

it's on the way...found a few at the 2nd truck stop on the way home from town

When is the deadline for submitting?

this may or may not help: https://www.townwagon.com/sites/tw/index.htm

additional information - 2x4 engine stand

Have ya reached out to Clester's for some technical assistance? They may have some info they can fax...

The engine and pinion offsets are more for packaging advantage than for performance gains. The universal joints transmit torque within a certain cone of travel, anything beyond that begins to wear the joint out prematurely. This is why ya see older ridiculously jacked up trucks on the side of the road with dropped driveshafts. Since the shorter axle shaft generally transmits most of the engine torque to the road, the longer shaft complements this torque application under changing road conditions, like rounding a corner on sorta wet surface.

I remember seeing different kinds of west coast mirrors at truck stops and local car parts stores, painted, chromed, with and without reflective stripes...cannot remember brands, but Grote still cranks out quality products: additional information - west coast mirrors additional information - west coast mirror bracket (stainless)

DCM, Vic's and Roberts have listings for the parts you are looking for, including rubber boots and rebuild kits.

Someone posted awhile back about using some sort of aviation grade ducting and even the aluminum dryer vent hose for the fresh air intake. After 100 miles, re-torque head, manifolds, etc, change oil, and drive it like ya stole it to really heat up them rings...OK maybe not that harsh, but I delayed upshifts and downshifted often to keep the engine rpms up for the first 1000 miles. Them flatheads ran plenty strong after that

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks

additional information - Fuel Tank Installation for Pilot-House Express and Chassis Cab Trucks