JBNeal

I picked that up from a veteran welder, his advice was to take plenty of time to setup so that the slag will flow out of the bolt hole by gravity, and even more to let the cast iron cool to the touch before cleaning the threads...the cast iron will dissipate the heat in no time as its mass is much higher than the slag, so no need to speed up the process by quenching, which might weaken the cast iron. If the slag has to be blown out, cover the surrounding area with some kind of steel or aluminum plate so the slag turns into b-bs quickly, have a magnet nearby to collect that slag if ya can.

Maybe the curved bracket is a safety feature to allow for a wider range of visibility of the tail lights, so that other drivers not directly behind the truck can see the brake light illuminate...also puts more space between bucket and bed...

I have used an O-A torch to melt out the broken bolt in cast iron threads before...kept the flame tip on the busted bolt, and eventually it mostly flowed out, then cleaned out the threads with a tap

additional information - distributor mounting gasket

using the tighten then loosen method, I broke zero head bolts on 6 different flathead engines over the years...though on my first flathead, I snapped a couple of manifold studs, and felt shame...

additional information - grille trim cap

additional information - Pilot-House definition

additional information - Texas-sized slip-joint pliers usage

TOOLBOX ARSENAL: Texas-sized slip joint pliers, quality made in USA back in the 70s additional information - optional slip-joint plier usage

The drain hole is the bottom plate held in place with 4 bolts...removing the top cover and the pitman arm, the output shaft should be able to be removed. additional information - steering gearbox overhaul

Last week, I had the QuadCab tires serviced, and with the wheels pulled off, I took a look at the brake pads, and was disappointed to see the wear on the driver side front pads through the caliper windows. A few days ago, I pulled the calipers off to get the front rotors surfaced, and verified that the driver caliper pistons were the culprit as the inside pad was worn out after 25k while the outside pad was barely worn; the passenger front pads were virtually equally worn, and about half used up. I also found the driver hub assembly had purged a good bit of grease, and was quite a bit more difficult to rotate than the passenger hub assembly. At first I was very disappointed by this, but dug up my receipts and verified that the warranty for that hub expires at the end of this month, so I was able to get a new replacement hub assembly at no charge...dodged a $300 bullet there. I went ahead and pulled the rear calipers off to clean and lubricate the friction mounting points on the pads and caliper housings with Sil-Glyde as I had done with the fronts. With everything put back together and pressure bled, the test drives while running errands were not as successful as what I had hoped, as the ABS light was back on intermittently instead of all of the time while ambient temperatures were in the 70s. When the temps dropped to the 50s-60s the next day, the ABS light was on intermittently albeit for much less duration. With the ABS light off, emergency braking worked well and did not trigger the ABS light, so that's nice. I am hoping that the brake issues are winding down, with this last caliper sticking because it's a little tight and will wear in sooner than later. Winter and most of spring will be in the rearview mirror In 6 months, and I'll check the system out again. In the meantime, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that there will be no incidents with this ol' buggy. After installing 17 calipers, 8 hydroboost units, 2 master cylinders, 2 power steering pumps, and 2 steering gearboxes, I've had enough practice overhauling these brakes...spending all this time doing the same procedures over and over has been a real drag

FYI them straps are listed in the parts manual as cut from stock to 17"

Correct, it is easier to make this screw-on dust cap tool but the 1-tons have smaller hubs than the 2-tons. Using a piece of paper and cardboard, a template can be made by cutting an approximate hole in the paper, then whittling it down to fit over the cap, then transferring to cardboard for a heavier template. I had the juevos to operate some Texas-sized slip-joint pliers fitted over the cap, but covered the cap with a shop towel to keep the cap from getting chewed up. I would not recommend using a pipe wrench as the jaws will just eat that cap for breakfast. additional information - homemade socket collection

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this B-1or2 paddy wagon on the FBPittsburgh Thanksgiving weekend, 1950

Dodge cranked out special orders on occasion to customer specifications, so custom paint schemes are a distinct possibility, such as body color fenders and wheels.

there should be an option for desktop site in the phone browser menu...the desktop site will load a little slower on a phone but there are more site options available, such as seeing more options in the search function, seeing profile signatures, etc

additional information - sill plate reflectors

I have several other detail pics of that B-1 flatbed and it is a modern unspectacular unit with plastic sidemarkers and a ho-hum square frame...the tada bed has the radiused perimeter steel with the mounts for armored marker lamps with glass lenses, but it has no apparent evidence of pinstriping that was the rage back then.. additional information - vintage flatbed details

SURVIVOR: B-1-D-126 spotted at that Big Spring Auction, an older restoration with a few custom upgrades